avciugroar

I've done my fair share of searching on this issue, but haven't found anyone with the same issue.

Occasionally, when I transition from clutch to gas, the car will suddenly not accelerate normally, only under 3k rpms. It will act up for at least 20 minutes. It's as if the car is loosing traction or fuel. It will shudder somewhat, but not like the "I dont know how to drive a stick" shudder. Then suddenly, BAM! a massive gain in power. This will continue in every gear, as long as it's under 3k rpms.

It has spent weeks at the dealership between four different visits, and they can never replicate the problem with the tech. Twice, I have driven the service consultants in the car, and they have seen the issue... but still could not replicate.

No codes are thrown, nothing shows in the computers at the dealership.

Things I have thought of, or been suggested are: accelerator pedal position sensor, throttle position sensor, MAFs (I cleaned them, but no difference), cam shaft sensor, fuel pump (or other fuel issue), traction issue, and clutch issue.

Eirksmal

Did you ever experience the same thing in your '03 6MT Maxima? My '02 6MT Maxima had the annoying pause before it would accelerate, acting almost like it had a slush box in it and you were waiting on the transmission to downshift or something. There was a TSB about flashing the ECM to fix it. I forget the specifics.

The G's engine shudders, though? Fuel, spark, air... Sounds like something electrical affecting the air component.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Twice before in my old '03 Maxima 6MT, intermittent power failure was the precursor to a failing coilpack.

avciugroar

Never had that problem in the Maxima. Didn't have it in the 2009 G. I'm actually talking about my new one. 2013 sedan. Just haven't updated my profile.

Electrical seems very possible. I wouldn't know where to start to troubleshoot. I started thinking about the clutch more recently, because I noticed if I improperly start off in first gear, that sometimes entices it to act up. As if the clutch is sticking... But I'm not revving high before taking off. Not heating up the clutch or anything...


Rochester, long time fan of yours, since the Maxima days, haha.

Coil pack! Maybe I should switch them all. Since it's intermittent, I don't know if testing each one would give accurate results. Thanks for that. Are they hard to change for the G? I remember the Maxima ones were easy.

I got to the point to where I could remove the intake manifold in my sleep! I stopped doing that when I dropped a bolt down the clutch fork opening, and didn't realize it till the inside of the bell housing cracked two weeks later, and I started leaking oil everywhere... That was a fun transmission replacement....

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

But being an 8 year old car, it's not a bad thing to throw money at.

We remember that differently. Then again, you could remove the UIM in your sleep, so...

ewuzh

From what I have come across on this issue, the hesitation appears more often when the engine is warm, and idle air temps are high (ambient temp 80F or higher).

There's also some discussion on the370z that the hesitation is due to throttle body voltage delay. As for potential solutions, I have personally found that restarting the car or resetting the ECU both seem to restore full power, at least for a little while. Others say it may be possible to tune out the hesitation using Osiris/UpRev. Or via a cheaper alternative like Sprint booster or throttle voltage booster.

logged some 1st gear throttle lag - Nissan 370Z Forum

avciugroar

Rochester, I haven't updated my profile yet. This is a 2013 sedan, not the 2009 in my profile. I will update it. This one only has 60k miles. Still, I guess it could be a good idea to consider replacing. Trial and error seems to be what I need to do.

Any suggestions on a good site for parts, like we had courtesyparts.com for the Maxima? I'm out of the loop with the G... it's just been a simple form of transportation. My home flooded in the August 2016 Louisiana flooding, and I have no time to read up on anything.


ewuzh: I've noticed it doesn't act up immediately after starting, but it doesn't have to be fully hot. Outside temp doesn't affect it. I'd hate to spend that much money on a tune if it doesn't fix the problem. It's not only in 1st gear, its every gear under 3k rpms. And its not just a little lag... it's something that will make you seriously say "WHAT is wrong with this car?!"

avciugroar

How do I get this post to show in the coupe and convertible forum, as well?

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Not really, other than to go with OEM for things like coil-packs. Figure out the part numbers, check Amazon.

avciugroar

Do you feel its strongly necessary to use OEM? Courtesyparts.com has it for $101, but Rockauto has a Spectra brand for $40... I'm thinking about buying the cheap one, and using it to replace one coil, see if the car acts up, and use that same coil on each cylinder to narrow down the possible faulty one.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

I genuinely don't know. Just throwing out ideas, because car forum.

G'luck

ezbme

What kind of fuel are you using? How clean is your air filter? How is your oil? I doubt it is a coil pack but they are known to fail. My BMW's coills had 200k before they started losing performance of course it is hard to discern when things start to go bad. One of them went bad, but that was due to oil getting past the plug.

Have you done any performance mods? I watched a video where this guy just replaced his panel filters and got 12 hp. My std air filters seem to be not that restrictive. I guess they are the std filter, since I bought the car used from an infiniti dealer.

The video makes me consider getting just the K&Ns and perhaps the silicone intake tubes. I can't imagine it getting nearly all that the cold air intake could. I hate the thought of either taking the bumper off or having it taken off and the chance of hydro locking the car, although I live in a place with little rain.

I have never been so tempted to get a ECU re-flash on a car. Apparently they make such a difference on these cars. There are times when it almost seems like the car is trying to prevent wheel slip before the car ever has any. Sometimes I turn off the traction control, because the car feels more alive with it off. I recently put in a oil additive that made the car feel much more alive, but I suspect with the hotter weather, getting used to it, or just time is taking away the difference. I haven't given a recommendation for the additive, since I have had it for close to two tanks. My car felt a little slower last drive, I forgot that the air was on..lol, it was 90 out.

I just pressed the pedal down more and heard a nice growl from the exhaust, which seems to be pretty quiet normally. My ex's 04 G35 Coupe seemed to be less hampered by the computers. Perhaps it was because the car only had less than 40k on it or that it weighs 200 lbs lighter.

I usually don't try to be too spirited with mine. I have had the car for 6 months now. The car has 164k and I can feel that the car is going to need some suspension updates. It has too much roll, the factory shocks are too stiff on the S, they could have done a better job tuning ride quality since the car isn't on a track. I wonder how much better the car will feel with aftermarket sways, the updated sways give a % of greater stiffness, but that is based on the std car.

Before buying my G, I drove a 07 IS350 with F-Sport Sways and std struts, I was tempted to get it. Perhaps I just need some new links and possibly some poly bushings. I had a 95 Honda Civic DX and ended up getting sways, I think that car either had none std or just the front. It made a big improvement, felt like the wheels weren't fighting in the turns.

ZahyMatar

iTrader: (4)

Did you try cleaning your throttle bodies?

avciugroar

ezbme: I use premium. Air filters are clean. Oil is slippery and clean. No performance mods.

ZahyMatar: I cleaned the throttle bodies a few months ago in an attempt to resolve the issue, but to no avail. A new coil and all new spark plugs should arrive soon, so hopefully that's the issue.

limequat

I had something similar on my 2011 6mt. Replaced plugs at 78k miles, and got better.