Sedan weight reduction
07-31-2017, 01:27 PM
#76
Valid consideration, 4DRZ. Interestingly enough, though, many new cars are being produced with tire sealant and an inflator kit in place of a spare tire. I wonder if they're having to engineer the rear of the vehicle differently in order to meet crash test standards without a spare tire in place.
Not sure why this thread is making you sad. Anyway, the idea is to find lighter replacement parts for the car to improve all areas of performance without sacrificing parts you use on a daily basis that do not get rid of much weight like floor mats, glovebox, or headrests. Do not drive without headrests- they are there so you do not get whiplash if you get rear ended.
07-31-2017, 01:41 PM
#77
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Not sure why this thread is making you sad. Anyway, the idea is to find lighter replacement parts for the car to improve all areas of performance without sacrificing parts you use on a daily basis that do not get rid of much weight like floor mats, glovebox, or headrests. Do not drive without headrests- they are there so you do not get whiplash if you get rear ended.
Yeah, but there's still three other headrests in the car. I personally have never used my glove box, and rear speakers are pretty useless for me. Around 12-15 lbs of easy weight.
Otherwise I'm familiar, thanks for the revision though, everything else seems to have been covered...
11-10-2017, 03:46 PM
#78
Couldn’t tell you the last time I used my trunk. Gutted it of the remaining plastics and resulted in 25lbs of weight loss. This was only the plastics and trunk mat. I had already removed jack/tools (didn’t weigh) and spare (32.5 lbs) months ago before the figure of 25 lbs was removed today. Waiting for a few more people to swap in lightweight better fitting seats for somebody my size (175). I’m sure they are out there, just not sure where to begin honestly. Would love to do black leather to keep it as oem looking as possible. Also do not want any lights on dash so would have to figure out the airbag and weight sensor.
11-10-2017, 04:20 PM
#80
11-11-2017, 03:08 PM
#82
Couldn’t tell you the last time I used my trunk. Gutted it of the remaining plastics and resulted in 25lbs of weight loss. This was only the plastics and trunk mat. I had already removed jack/tools (didn’t weigh) and spare (32.5 lbs) months ago before the figure of 25 lbs was removed today. Waiting for a few more people to swap in lightweight better fitting seats for somebody my size (175). I’m sure they are out there, just not sure where to begin honestly. Would love to do black leather to keep it as oem looking as possible. Also do not want any lights on dash so would have to figure out the airbag and weight sensor.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...duction-5.html
11-11-2017, 05:30 PM
#83
Couldn’t tell you the last time I used my trunk. Gutted it of the remaining plastics and resulted in 25lbs of weight loss. This was only the plastics and trunk mat. I had already removed jack/tools (didn’t weigh) and spare (32.5 lbs) months ago before the figure of 25 lbs was removed today. Waiting for a few more people to swap in lightweight better fitting seats for somebody my size (175). I’m sure they are out there, just not sure where to begin honestly. Would love to do black leather to keep it as oem looking as possible. Also do not want any lights on dash so would have to figure out the airbag and weight sensor.
I would not recommend driving around without a spare and jack and tools for obvious reasons if you get a flat. Also if you get in an accident the spare tire acts as a crumple zone.
But not recommended
11-11-2017, 07:09 PM
#87
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for the manual trans users a lightened flywheel is significantly better to drive. I went with a JWT aluminum and the hd clutch kit, speed csc on my 2007 sport sedan. iirc the flywheel is 21lbs less or something? the engine comes alive ditching all that spinning weight!
edit:15.4 lbs vs 28 lbs stock
edit:15.4 lbs vs 28 lbs stock
Last edited by lifted-d; 11-11-2017 at 10:26 PM.
11-13-2017, 08:45 PM
#88
for the manual trans users a lightened flywheel is significantly better to drive. I went with a JWT aluminum and the hd clutch kit, speed csc on my 2007 sport sedan. iirc the flywheel is 21lbs less or something? the engine comes alive ditching all that spinning weight!
edit:15.4 lbs vs 28 lbs stock
edit:15.4 lbs vs 28 lbs stock
02-17-2018, 10:57 PM
#90
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Crash Structure
As an engineer who has spent time in an automotive stamping shop, I thought I'd offer my opinion on the spare tire as a part of the crash structure. In a severe rear end collision, the rear bumper and trunk will act as crumple zones and transmit the energy into the rockers, floor pan, and c pillars. For crash testing, they look at protecting all potential seating areas of the car, as such, the presence of the spare tire will make a difference, as long as it is secured and able to transmit force into its stamped steel housing. However, when it comes to tracking the car, assuming you have no back seat passengers, having the spare present will make no significant difference when it comes to protecting the driver and a front seat passenger, the entire rear of the car will act as a crumple zone to protect the front occupants. So for a track day, I would have no concerns over ditching the spare, dependent on the passenger situation. Another obvious thing to note, any crash of sufficient force to begin crumpling the stamped panels of the uni-body will likely result in the totaling of the car.
If you are still concerned about protecting the integrity of the rear crumple zone, I'll offer up a cheap idea that will let you save some weight for a track day. Lay out some plastic sheeting in the bottom of the donut shaped hole used to store the spare and use a high density expanding foam to fill the void between the sheet metal and the foam tool kit holder. If you are careful, you will end up with a removable foam insert to replace the much heavier spare wheel and tire. The plastic sheeting is just to make it easy and clean to swap in and out.
In summary, the spare just serves as a way of transferring force from a collision into the main structure of the uni-body, by filling the void with foam, you can achieve the same effect as the spare.
By the way, I've loved following along with your build and I appreciate your focus for performance over aesthetics.
If you are still concerned about protecting the integrity of the rear crumple zone, I'll offer up a cheap idea that will let you save some weight for a track day. Lay out some plastic sheeting in the bottom of the donut shaped hole used to store the spare and use a high density expanding foam to fill the void between the sheet metal and the foam tool kit holder. If you are careful, you will end up with a removable foam insert to replace the much heavier spare wheel and tire. The plastic sheeting is just to make it easy and clean to swap in and out.
In summary, the spare just serves as a way of transferring force from a collision into the main structure of the uni-body, by filling the void with foam, you can achieve the same effect as the spare.
By the way, I've loved following along with your build and I appreciate your focus for performance over aesthetics.
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