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Got some coupe sport wheels painted gunmetal, i wont lower the car until spring comes...carbon fiber wrapped the trim (think imma just wrap it gloss black), window tints & decals lol,
I got a new door today lol. My bodywork job was spot on (if you remember that hit and run I had to deal with) but the paint, clearcoat, didn't hold up too well. Ill try to fix the current clearcoat with some fresh 2k clear, but just in case grabbed a new door for $150.
Had to drop the bumper and remove the headlight assemblies. Somehow my HID fog light harness died on me and Diode Dynamics sent me a new one. Plus I needed to put in the LED city and turn signals. Some tired hands later, all is well again!
Put on my duckfeet and a/s tires after replacing the 2 rears(down to the wear bars). Why did I wait till the last possible minute??
While at it, can anyone recommend a powder coater around Atlanta? Thinking about changing the summer wheels color while off for the winter. And what's a good price? Had a 1st quote of $750, including remounting and balancing my tires.
I'd just get a quote for powdercoating the wheels, the price for the powdercoater to remove, replace & balance the tires will inflate the price quite a bit vs. just getting the tires R&R'd at a tire shop.
Price like $75 to $100 per wheel to sandblast & powdercoat is a fair price. Here's one place for an example https://boneheadperformance.com/powd...oating-prices/
If wheels are rashed/dinged and require some work to get proper, then the cost may go up quick.
blnewt, I found a local company and got an estimate of $100/wheel. They said they can usually clean them before powder coating and if sandblasting is necessary it's just a little more. Best thing is no shipping involved. Hopefully I can get it done around the first of the year. They have alot of pics and references so I'll check them out further in the coming weeks.
Finally got my plates in and one of the screws for the rear license plate is stuck...The nut isn't staying still and just rotates with the screw when I try to unscrew. Any tips or am I going to have to drill this screw out?
Finally got my plates in and one of the screws for the rear license plate is stuck...The nut isn't staying still and just rotates with the screw when I try to unscrew. Any tips or am I going to have to drill this screw out?
This issue happened to me, so what I did was grabbed a pair of small vice grips to bite the nut from behind. I then proceeded to turn the bolt and it eventually came out.
I then replaced it the screws with a kit similar to this
Yep... higher cost for half the miles. That's true. The reason why it gets under my skin is when I read about people who compromise on tires, all the while modding their car for better driving performance. It's a head-banger.
Well, what are we calling a compromise? You don't need PSSes to get a good amount of grip out of a G on the street. I have 255 width DWS06s on my G now, and it works great. More than enough grip for the street. Much much more than enough actually. And in the winter time it's still pretty grippy once the tires are warmed up. Plus it's still drivable in the snow.
I posted screenshots before but I'm too lazy to go back for them... but Tire Rack tests tires regularly, and UHP A/Ss are not far off in ultimate wet/dry performance from UHP summer tires. We are talking .05-.1g at the absolute limit. Who drives that hard on the street?
Originally Posted by Lego_Maniac
That's the ironic part, most aren't modding for performance, they're slapping coils on for stance and big wheels and low profile tires for looks.
And what's wrong with that? If someone prioritizes performance, they'd get a Z. The G is a luxury car with a little sport, not the other way round.
If someone prioritizes performance, they'd get a Z. The G is a luxury car with a little sport, not the other way round.
The Z isn't all that either, in stock trim. It's why we mod them, because the platform can easily be tweaked into something more. I think you're romanticizing your old car a bit much.
And what's wrong with that? If someone prioritizes performance, they'd get a Z. The G is a luxury car with a little sport, not the other way round.
Nothing wrong with it. It's the reality of this community though that prefers form to function
If you don't prioritize shorter stopping distances, increased grip or the accompanying feedback through the steering wheel, I certainly understand, hence my comment that not everyone wants to drop $1k on tires every 12-15,000 miles. Rochester drives like 3k a year and I average 12k, so it's a little easier to justify than if I drive 20k.
The G is a plenty capable car, LSD, huge brakes, aluminum suspension, 6mt, supportive seats and fantastic steering. I actually think it's a little short on luxury, but I think it's a wonderful platform, with plenty of mod paths to fit anyone's budget and vision.
The Z isn't all that either, in stock trim. It's why we mod them, because the platform can easily be tweaked into something more. I think you're romanticizing your old car a bit much.
I'm not romanticizing it at all; I sold it for a reason and will never get another one. But if performance is the priority the 500lb lighter Z is the obvious entry point in the platform. Likewise prioritizing performance doesn't mean having to commit to spending $1000/yr on tires to drive on the street.
Added front plate bracket (wife pressure/tickets)
Replaced both front stabilizer links
Cleaned both intakes and subsequently learned the idle re-learn process
SeaFoamed intake
Replaced battery
Changed oil (Mobil 1 5w30/Nissan filter) yesterday
I'm not romanticizing it at all; I sold it for a reason and will never get another one. But if performance is the priority the 500lb lighter Z is the obvious entry point in the platform. Likewise prioritizing performance doesn't mean having to commit to spending $1000/yr on tires to drive on the street.
11-19-2017, 12:32 PM
