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Oh, yeah, that's a bad situation but quite a few around here have had to go to the nuclear option aka the torch. G/L hope it doesn't set you back much.
Brad,
I know it's an old thread, but could you provide a link for the OBX test pipes you installed. I assume from Ebay is where you purchased them.
I know it's an old thread, but could you provide a link for the OBX test pipes you installed. I assume from Ebay is where you purchased them.
Thanks
They no longer make them, I think they too closely copied Fast Intentions RTPs as they are real similar in design and the O2 port is an exact copy, so I have a feeling there were patent infringements. Too bad as they have performed and held up well w/ no CEL codes and good sound and power boost.
So I have a question sir. I purchased a set of non resonated HFC's and was looking at the bolts, what method did you perform to remove the ones closest to the frame rails on the bottom? I attempted to do it but could not get a good turn on them. I was using a torque wrench through the wheel well. Thanks in advance buddy
Hmm, trying to remember what I used. I wouldn't recommend using a torque wrench to loosen bolts though, it can affect the torque calibrations.
IIRC I either used a breaker bar or just a box end wrench (possibly w/ a rubber mallet for motivation), I think they were pretty easy to break free when soaked w/ the Acetone/ATF mix but there's not a lot of room to loosen them out so it takes awhile.
Yeah, I had to switch my ratchet to one that had less play in between the clicks. I could get maybe 2-3 clicks out of each turn of the ratchet, I put my arm and the ratchet through the wheel well while lying under the car. I also used a cheater pipe over the handle of the ratchet to get better leverage in that tight space.
Hmm, trying to remember what I used. I wouldn't recommend using a torque wrench to loosen bolts though, it can affect the torque calibrations.
IIRC I either used a breaker bar or just a box end wrench (possibly w/ a rubber mallet for motivation), I think they were pretty easy to break free when soaked w/ the Acetone/ATF mix but there's not a lot of room to loosen them out so it takes awhile.
I mixed the ATF/Acetone but never spayed em as I wanted to see just how much of a challenge it was gonna be to get to them. The passenger side is gonna be so much easier. As for the upper demon bolt by the steering shaft (driver side) how did ya get by it to grab the bolt? That one looks to be the most challenging of all of them.
Originally Posted by takeapieandrun
Yeah, I had to switch my ratchet to one that had less play in between the clicks. I could get maybe 2-3 clicks out of each turn of the ratchet, I put my arm and the ratchet through the wheel well while lying under the car. I also used a cheater pipe over the handle of the ratchet to get better leverage in that tight space.
I willattempt it again this weekend with a 1/2" breaker bar and update ya.
I mixed the ATF/Acetone but never spayed em as I wanted to see just how much of a challenge it was gonna be to get to them. The passenger side is gonna be so much easier. As for the upper demon bolt by the steering shaft (driver side) how did ya get by it to grab the bolt? That one looks to be the most challenging of all of them.
I willattempt it again this weekend with a 1/2" breaker bar and update ya.
That drivers' side is tough, you need a helper (at least I did), my wife held the breaker bar stable as I seated the socket on the bolt head. The steering shaft will be right against your extensions but there is enough room to get a good seat. Once it's seated (with those awesome Harbor Freight adapters) just take hold of the breaker bar and just go Popeye on that be-atch! I thought I broke it but it just snapped free, thank god Oh, and be SURE you only use a 6pt. socket, those 12 pt.sockets will turn those bolts into a perfect circle
If by upper demon bolt you mean the one you access through the engine bay, I use a u-joint to give a little room for the extensions. I'm gonna be doing the whole thing over again this coming weekend putting my ART pipes back in, never got around to it after swapping the cats in for Smog lol. If you're still stuck I can take pics of how I do it then.
If by upper demon bolt you mean the one you access through the engine bay, I use a u-joint to give a little room for the extensions. I'm gonna be doing the whole thing over again this coming weekend putting my ART pipes back in, never got around to it after swapping the cats in for Smog lol. If you're still stuck I can take pics of how I do it then.
Top Bolt (access from engine bay): That's my intake on the right, if you have the stock airbox you will need to remove it. I used a 16 inch + 3 inch + 3 inch extension, with a u-joint on the end and then the socket to get enough length. This was the absolute worst when I first opened it, I used a 2-foot breaker bar on this contraption and had two of my friends help torque it to finally get it to pop. No idea how the 3/8 u-joint or extensions didnt break, it was flexing at least 30 degrees haha.
Mid/Inner bolt (access from below car): I ran the 16 inch extension above the o2 sensor and onto this bolt, also with the u-joint attached. It would probably work a lot better with roughly 8-12 inches of extension but I only had a few to work with lol. The second pic is how I ran the extensions through everything in the way.
Bottom/Outer Bolt: This one has to go through the wheel well. You can get your elbow and forearm into that area, even with the wheel still on. The first picture is how the ratchet looks from your view lying on the ground, the next picture is how it looks from the wheel well, as if you were looking at the bolt from directly behind the wheel. Again, this will only allow you maybe 1 or 2 clicks on your ratchet to turn the bolt with. It takes forever and definitely leaves your shoulders a little sore...
Sorry for the not so good pictures haha, it was really cramped under there and I was trying to handle both the ratchet and my phone. Hopefully this helps. Also, make sure to use a deep-socket 14mm as a standard one wont allow enough space for the stud sticking out past the nut.
Also.. during this whole process my passenger side o2 sensor inexplicably seized itself in the 3 months I have left the stock cats installed. I used a breaker bar on it and put so much torque the spark plug nut actually got rounded off. No idea how that happened as I didn't even tighten it that much last time because I knew I would be accessing it again. Maybe it got cross-threaded or something. There goes a night's worth at the bar for a replacement lol
Thanks for the fresh pics, nice work! As for the O2 sensor, I use that copper-based anti seize on all the exhaust fasteners, hopefully if & when I need to get back there I won't have the same luck ???
08-23-2017, 07:02 PM
Oh, and be SURE you only use a 6pt. socket, those 12 pt.sockets will turn those bolts into a perfect circle 
