GT-Spec FSTB - Now with more bling!
03-04-2016, 04:22 PM
#1
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GT-Spec FSTB - Now with more bling!
In the G37 world, the two go-to manufactures for a Front Shock Tower Brace (FSTB) are GT-Spec and Cusco. There are others, like Tanabe and Alutec. But I’m pretty sure people would agree, GT-Spec and Cusco are the most common.
They’re virtually the same, one neither better nor worse than the other. The Cusco is an excellent value, with a more flat design, and good clearance. Visually, it's more like a blade, and it partially covers the VVEL letters on the engine cover, which is awkward. Whereas the GT-Spec costs more, has more detail on the corner and is more adjustable at the brackets. The clearance isn't as good given its more tubular shape, but it's placement over the engine cover is better, IMO. The VVEL lettering on the engine cover is top-aligned to the bar, making it look more OEM because of the alignment. And the V6 lettering is entirely hidden under the bar. I went and removed the sound-deadening hood-liner, in part because the FSTB was getting all scratched up in two spots. You don't have that problem with the Cusco bar.
Argue the merits or accuracy of those points if you want, doesn’t matter… they’re both fine pieces of hardware.
From a practical matter, all Tower Braces do the same thing, which is to reduce the amount of flex in the front of the frame whenever there’s a sudden shift in weight. This in turn (no pun) optimizes the contact of the tires and allows for more control. For the most part, that means when lunging out of the hole directly into a turn, (which pretty much describes the essence of auto-cross, LOL.) It's a real thing, and if you test it with/without the brace, you'll discover that the steering is more precise than otherwise on a sudden turn-in. However, in most all real-world driving, you’d be hard-pressed to know whether or not the FSTB is on the car.
But that’s not what this thread is about. This is about making the bar look good.
I bought my GT-Spec FSTB in January 2013, direct from GTspec.com. Brand new, it was $237 shipped. Kind of pricey, but it is what it is.
BRACKETS
The very first thing I did with it was take the brackets to the Powder coater. He acid dipped the original powder coating off the brackets, then re-coated them in gloss black, with a light metallic clear-coat. That was $30 for powder coating.
HARDWARE
The next thing I did was replace the hardware. Not the shock-nuts… those are a particular design, with an inner sleeve, and you have to use them. However, the “pins” were basic stainless steel hex bolts. So I ordered two M10x75 tapered-head bolts in polished titanium, and two M10 titanium nyloc nuts, with four M10 titanium washers. I ordered them through Pro-BoltUSA.com for $48 shipped. I know that’s a lot of money for such little hardware, but Pro-Bolt gets premium pricing, and it was all titanium. If you’re not familiar with titanium hardware, you should be. It’s awesome.
At the shock bolts, above the nuts, I used rubber end-caps to provide a clean look. These cost nothing… a few dollars for a pack of Dorman Vacuum Caps at AutoZone. Find the right size, cut them to length, it's easy and makes a nice difference.
ALUMINUM BAR
The bar itself comes from the factory with a clear-coat finish over polished aluminum, and the GT-SPEC logo etched into the middle. I have no idea why they clear-coat the bar, because it looks like pooh; all milky white and dull. And the logo… I really don’t like putting too many logos under the hood. Well, not anymore, I don’t. I used to like that very much.
Anyway, the end-points of the bar have GTSPEC embossed into the aluminum, I don’t need a third logo in the middle, competing with the engine cover.
To fix this, I used 4-naught (0000) steel wool, metal polish, and lots and lots of elbow grease. The end result is a mirror-like finish, with no more center logo. And being aluminum, it won’t corrode as long as you wipe it down a few times a year. I’ve had mine over 3 years now of Western NY winters, and it still looks perfect.
END-POINTS
You’ll see the ends of the bar are welded components supporting the bracket pin. That welded piece of aluminum has the word GTSPEC embossed into it. Well, those letters look so-o-o much better in a field of black. Just use a small brush to apply some black paint into the area, then wipe off the surface with a soft, flat edge. It doesn't require any skills to do this, and it looks great.
This picture here pretty much sums up the entire thread: strip and polish the bar, powder-coat the brackets, upgrade the hardware, and paint the endpoints /done
They’re virtually the same, one neither better nor worse than the other. The Cusco is an excellent value, with a more flat design, and good clearance. Visually, it's more like a blade, and it partially covers the VVEL letters on the engine cover, which is awkward. Whereas the GT-Spec costs more, has more detail on the corner and is more adjustable at the brackets. The clearance isn't as good given its more tubular shape, but it's placement over the engine cover is better, IMO. The VVEL lettering on the engine cover is top-aligned to the bar, making it look more OEM because of the alignment. And the V6 lettering is entirely hidden under the bar. I went and removed the sound-deadening hood-liner, in part because the FSTB was getting all scratched up in two spots. You don't have that problem with the Cusco bar.
Argue the merits or accuracy of those points if you want, doesn’t matter… they’re both fine pieces of hardware.
From a practical matter, all Tower Braces do the same thing, which is to reduce the amount of flex in the front of the frame whenever there’s a sudden shift in weight. This in turn (no pun) optimizes the contact of the tires and allows for more control. For the most part, that means when lunging out of the hole directly into a turn, (which pretty much describes the essence of auto-cross, LOL.) It's a real thing, and if you test it with/without the brace, you'll discover that the steering is more precise than otherwise on a sudden turn-in. However, in most all real-world driving, you’d be hard-pressed to know whether or not the FSTB is on the car.
But that’s not what this thread is about. This is about making the bar look good.
I bought my GT-Spec FSTB in January 2013, direct from GTspec.com. Brand new, it was $237 shipped. Kind of pricey, but it is what it is.
BRACKETS
The very first thing I did with it was take the brackets to the Powder coater. He acid dipped the original powder coating off the brackets, then re-coated them in gloss black, with a light metallic clear-coat. That was $30 for powder coating.
HARDWARE
The next thing I did was replace the hardware. Not the shock-nuts… those are a particular design, with an inner sleeve, and you have to use them. However, the “pins” were basic stainless steel hex bolts. So I ordered two M10x75 tapered-head bolts in polished titanium, and two M10 titanium nyloc nuts, with four M10 titanium washers. I ordered them through Pro-BoltUSA.com for $48 shipped. I know that’s a lot of money for such little hardware, but Pro-Bolt gets premium pricing, and it was all titanium. If you’re not familiar with titanium hardware, you should be. It’s awesome.
At the shock bolts, above the nuts, I used rubber end-caps to provide a clean look. These cost nothing… a few dollars for a pack of Dorman Vacuum Caps at AutoZone. Find the right size, cut them to length, it's easy and makes a nice difference.
ALUMINUM BAR
The bar itself comes from the factory with a clear-coat finish over polished aluminum, and the GT-SPEC logo etched into the middle. I have no idea why they clear-coat the bar, because it looks like pooh; all milky white and dull. And the logo… I really don’t like putting too many logos under the hood. Well, not anymore, I don’t. I used to like that very much.
Anyway, the end-points of the bar have GTSPEC embossed into the aluminum, I don’t need a third logo in the middle, competing with the engine cover.To fix this, I used 4-naught (0000) steel wool, metal polish, and lots and lots of elbow grease. The end result is a mirror-like finish, with no more center logo. And being aluminum, it won’t corrode as long as you wipe it down a few times a year. I’ve had mine over 3 years now of Western NY winters, and it still looks perfect.
END-POINTS
You’ll see the ends of the bar are welded components supporting the bracket pin. That welded piece of aluminum has the word GTSPEC embossed into it. Well, those letters look so-o-o much better in a field of black. Just use a small brush to apply some black paint into the area, then wipe off the surface with a soft, flat edge. It doesn't require any skills to do this, and it looks great.
This picture here pretty much sums up the entire thread: strip and polish the bar, powder-coat the brackets, upgrade the hardware, and paint the endpoints /done
Last edited by Rochester; 03-05-2016 at 11:01 AM.
03-04-2016, 06:52 PM
#2
^ Nice polish work on the bar! 
FYI, you can save yourself some elbow grease by spraying the bar down with easy off oven cleaner (heavy duty), waiting 10 minutes, then scrubbing the coating away with medium grade steel wool. It comes right off almost as easy as plastidip. You can use this same method to strip anodizing off other aluminum parts.
FYI, you can save yourself some elbow grease by spraying the bar down with easy off oven cleaner (heavy duty), waiting 10 minutes, then scrubbing the coating away with medium grade steel wool. It comes right off almost as easy as plastidip. You can use this same method to strip anodizing off other aluminum parts.
03-05-2016, 12:33 AM
#4
John that sure some nice "BLiNG" 
Infiniti seems to have "loss" my shock nuts that came with the GT Spec STB and I was wondering where they can be purchased?
Are they specific for the STB or does any hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes or Ace) carry them?
Infiniti seems to have "loss" my shock nuts that came with the GT Spec STB and I was wondering where they can be purchased?
Are they specific for the STB or does any hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes or Ace) carry them?
03-05-2016, 07:03 AM
#6
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You could try your local FASTENAL, but I suspect it would be easier to just contact GT-Spec.
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dragion (03-05-2016)
03-05-2016, 09:41 AM
#7
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What have you done to your FSTB?
If anyone else has modded their FSTB, regardless of brand, it sure would be interesting to see what you did.
Pics and comments are all welcome.
Pics and comments are all welcome.
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Rochester (03-05-2016)
03-06-2016, 04:42 PM
#13
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03-06-2016, 08:53 PM
#15
(about the pics...not what happened to your G)
Would like to see them.
I'm located in Boston too...except I no longer own a G37, but a Q50S now.
I'm trying to see if it is possible to install the GTSPEC FSTB on the Q50S, but the dealer removed it from the G37 and lost the shock nuts.
I'm trying to order another set and waiting for a response back from GTSPEC.