ZahyMatar

iTrader: (4)

Brian Kouba, with the blue AWD sedan is on the same suspension setup as me (Stance XR1 coilovesr and SPL FUCA) and is running 18x9.5 +35 Enkei TS10 up front with a 10mm spacer (so its actually +25) along with a 275/40. I think I'll be fine. Well, I hope.. I'd really appreciate it if you could throw your wheel up front.

SkyG37

What's up guys, I had a quick question. I'm totally new to suspension and for the last few weeks I've been reading like crazy. I came to the conclusion that regardless of the company, most cast wheels have the same chance of cracking / breaking going over potholes. So if this is true, I think I am going to start off with some sort of rep wheels for my G37S. It came down to Niche (Manufactured by MHT, idk if that's good or not), Avant Garde (read lots of stories of cracking / bending, but I found some G's run them), VMR (Heard they crack as well, more popular among Bimmers), and maybe Velgen (700$ more).

Would I be able to run any of these wheels as well as clear the BBK's that comes stock with my G37 Sport Sedan ? The wheels I have chosen are (also looking to run 19's or 20's):

- Niche Intake M160

- Avant Garde M580 / M590

- VMR V810

- Velgen VMB7

I am also uneducated on the topic of offsets and their relationship with the wheel size (for example, 19x10 offset 35). So I am asking for your guy's suggestion if I can run any of these wheels on my G37 Sedan S as well as clear BBKs?

I also plan to purchase Tein Street Basis as well as SPC F/R Arms? According to my research, when lowering with coils, it is best to buy the kit as well to level out the geometry of the car. Are they 100% required? I'll continue reading and hopefully, I'll understand all of this soon -_-

ZahyMatar

iTrader: (4)

Not all cast wheels are built the same. You need a flow-formed wheel. Enkei, Weds Sport, Ray's GramLight, SSR, Work, Advan Forgestar and Rotiform are all quality cast wheels. And yes, purchase the camber arms unless you want to replace tires every 5k miles.

MaQG37

iTrader: (4)

They're not, but depending on what he's doing with the car, he dosen't have to spend all that money. There are tons running Niche, AG, VMR's, and Velgens. I don't have camber arms, I'm stanced, and I don't replace tires every 5k miles. Too many variables to openly make that statement Zahy.

ZahyMatar

iTrader: (4)

Oh yeah I forgot you drive aired out

MaQG37

iTrader: (4)

I drive low so my wheels are flush when rolling.

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

It really depends on how low you plan on going as to whether or not you really need the F/R camber arms. Many just use the upgraded rear eccentric bolts and grind out the adjustment holes for more adjustment in the rear and then stick with the OEM front arms. I ran this set-up for many years without any issues or extra tire wear, but I also didn't slam my car to the ground. If you want to go really low with it then I would suggest going with the front and rear arms from the get go. Also, if you want to go that low you'll probably need to adjust your rear toe more than the OEM adjusters will allow. Why I added air bags to my car I ended up also replacing my rear traction bars with adjustable units to give me a little more rear toe adjustment. Good luck!

SkyG37

Ahh, I do remember reading about flow formed. I'm not educated on the subject but a quick search states it's very similar to forged wheels in terms of strength and endurance. If i understand correctly, flow formed is still a type of cast wheels, just of better quality? And if that is the case, are Rotiform RSE better than the wheels listed above in terms of strength? On the Rotiform website, it has two categories: monoblock 1 piece cast and 3 piece forged.

I am aware of the quality and authentic wheels such as the ones you mentioned, I just simply do have the funds for $2-4k wheels at this moment, and I understand that. That's why I'm willing to settle with one of the rep brands.

As for the SPC arms, you are correct as I read from many threads that without correcting the camber, it will wear my tires. Thanks for the advice.

​​​​​​I remember reading your build thread regarding the coils. You went through like 4 suspensions if I remember (BC, flex Z, air, ....) I also read that you weren't running arms but you also stated you were on air at that point, so you were good. Since I'm about to get my degree in engineering, my pops is blessing me buying 4 new tires for my G. I figured what a great time to upgrade suspension and wheels. So I set a budget to $2500 for both, until I realized I needed the SPC kit. So I am at a standstill and trying to figure out what are some nice, decent quality (I know, you get what you pay for) coils and wheels. My conclusion was tein street basis with the SPC kit as well as some sort of rep wheels. Now I'm at the part of trying to figure out what offset means in terms of wheel size as well as which rep wheels tend to last longer.

If Zayh says Rotiform are better cast wheels, than I can always looking into the RSE . Not too sure though. Thanks for the advice. I get my MD installed in an hour too

MaQG37

iTrader: (4)

Is the $2,500 excluding tires? Hit up Adam @ race consulting agency a great deal on SPC rear arms.

The amount of camber you need will depend on A) how low you go and B) the offset/width of your wheels. And, I ran -2.5ish for a good year without any visible camber wear close to 13k miles on Bridgestones (no camber correction).

I'm about to go -5 camber for my ride height so let's see how that fares.

If you have any wheel offset/selection questions, send me a PM, I'd be happy to help. I'm on my 4th set of wheels on my car.

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

Hey, Sky, I recently put an Air Lift suspension on my car and still have all 3 sets of my previous coil overs that I'm looking to get rid of (Tanabe, Agility and JIC). I also have an extra set of adjustable rear camber arms that I'll throw in with the coil overs. Send me a PM if your interested.

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

Hey Brad. I did not roll the front fenders at all. But I did have to grind down the high spots in the plastic fender liners and I also bent back the mounting tabs for the fender liners a bit as well and haven't had any clearance issues. But I do run around -1.5° of camber up front mainly so there's enough camber arc for the tires to tuck in nicely when I air all the way down. It also a better match for the rear camber that way too.

SkyG37

I actually read about people going that route as well. I heard with springs, such as swift, people can get away without using the F/R kit. Or if they do, they only get the rear. Once we get into the coilover territory, people just say the kit is needed. If I am correct, the price for just the rear arm / bolt is around 200$ while the whole F/R kit is around $600. I do not want to be SLAMMED to the ground as I live in the Bay Area which tends to have roads ranging from awful to smooth as silk. I also have a few speed bumps at my college parking lot, so I would like to be able to get over them without scraping my MD / OEM front lip (when I buy it). I cannot run through tires as I don't have the money as well as these next tires, my pops is going to bless me and buy them for me. Last thing I want is to have to throw them away at 5-7k miles due to camber.

I would like a nice fitment that people can notice while driving or parked but I do not want to be scraping over everything. I would also like to get rid of the wheel gap. From my reading, stock front is 28" FTG while the rear is 27.5". Most people tend to set their coils at around 26.25"-26.75" FTG with coilovers, especially the Tein Basis Coilovers.

That is correct. $2500 without tires as my pops is willing to buy this set for me. That puts me at about 1000-1100$ for the tein street basis + SPC F/R . This leaves me with about 14-1500$ for wheels without tires. So I am willing to settle with some sort of Rep Wheels. I also have the sport sedan so the wheels have to clear the BBK. I am going to continue reading and once I get an idea, I might shoot you a PM. I just have to decide which rep brand has the strongest cast wheel for about 1000-1500$ (Niche, Rotiform, VMR, AG, etc). I just dont have the funds for 3 piece forged wheels at the moment, or of course, I would buy them in a heartbeat.

Wellnotexactly

FWIW I had VMR V701s on my Passat and loved them. They stood up to a ton of abuse.

SkyG37

Thanks 2G! I appreciate the help and I might have to shoot you that PM. Just have to research on coilovers a little bit more in-depth.

On the bright side, I think I found the wheels I want which are flow formed. I am looking at getting the flow formed VMR V810 / VMR V710. I called VMR and spoke with Brandon and he mentioned that it SHOULD clear my BBKs. He offered to ship 1 wheel to test fitment but he is pretty positive that it would clear. Now I am looking for the right offset.

Bronze G37 with VMR V710 (very similar to V810)









Same color car / same color wheels I would get:




Most people running VMRs (that I could FIND) are running 19x8.5" +33/35 and 19x9.5" +40. Another member (93owner) is running a squared 19x9.5" +33 I think with VMR 701's. What do you guys suggest for my specs / offset?

As for suspension and how low I would like to go, I like 93owner's fitment alot. Doesn't seem too LOW but low enough to grab attention I feel like.



Sooo... What do you guys think?!
Well, I'll report back when I do more research. lol

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

If you like that 7 split spoke design then I'd also suggest looking at the Forgestar F14 wheels (see below link). These are also a forged flow form monoblock design wheel and should be well within your budget at around $300 per wheel. Plus they will custom make the wheels in any offset you want in 1mm increments, so you can get perfect fitment. My suggestion would be something around 19x9.5" +30mm up front and 19x10.5" +45mm in the rear, which would allow you to run some fairly aggressive tire sizes without any excessive negative camber.


F14 | Forgestar