Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

Logic? In a conversation with a spouse?

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

As a former member of the married clan, that is funny!

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I actually say that in jest.

My wife generally responds something like "I hate when you use logic to prove you're right"

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

2018 Subaru... three more years of payments, 12000 miles.
2014 Nissan... zero payments, 27000 miles.
2011 Infiniti... zero payments, 39000 miles.

It will all work out somehow. I shouldn't gin up worry about things like this, but it's what I do.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

May I start calling you Macauley Culkin?

r2dmax

Ah, just turn the radio up until you don't hear it anymore...

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

It definitely could be the input shaft bearing, but my bet would be on the throw-out bearing. The throw-out bearing is a much more common failure item and your car has way too little mileage to be at the point you'd need to replace the input shaft bearing.


From my experience, when the throw-out bearing first starts to fail the noise will usually be present when the bearing is turningbut not loaded so it will usually go away when you rest your foot on the clutch pedal and/or fully depress the clutch pedal (loading the throw out bearing)… If it still makes the noise with the clutch pedal fully depressed then the throw-out bearing could be completely gone and/or it could also be a bad pilot bearing, which would also get replaced when the clutch is replaced. If it makes the noise all the time regardless of the clutch position then its more than likely a bad input shaft bearing, which can also be replaced when the clutch isremoved.


Here’s a good site that explains common clutch noises that you can check out.


https://www.yourmechanic.com/services/loud-noise-when-using-the-clutch-inspection


This is always a tough decision because the cost of the replacement bearings is relatively low compared to the time and cost to replace them. Most people figure if they are taking the time to pull the tranny or paying someone hundreds of dollars to pull the tranny then the might as well replace the clutch and resurface the flywheel while they are in there. Otherwise you are going to be paying someone another $600 or so in a couple of years to replace the clutch. Even if you aren't upgrading it would definitely save on future maintenance costs.

obsidiansamurai

Happy Friday y'all.

I've been experiencing an intermittent loss in clutch pressure the past couple months. I checked the clutch fluid today and noticed it's a tad lower and a bit darker than when it was put in last December. I'd like to get another flush/replacement done, but this time I want to avoid the dealership and the $450 they charged me last time. How much should an independent mechanic charge to flush/replace clutch fluid?

I also want them to check the slave cylinder while they're down there. Is this an unreasonable request? From a quick check, can they see whether my slave cylinder if failing or not?

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

My best guess, a minimum charge for an hour of lift time. It's not rocket science, but sure is convenient to have a lift and another person. Better yet, pay someone else and be done with it.

Or drive up to Canada and buy Frank a couple of beers.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I really need to have the clutch flushed/bleed again. It's been ~3 years/30K since I last did it. I don't recall exactly, but it was <$100, and I brought my own fluid.

I'm a big DIY guy, but agree, for <$100, this is kinda a pain, and I've reached a point where I don't really have anyone that wants to spend an hour in the garage with me turning wrenches, and wifey declined when I asked her to pump the clutch 30 times while I lay under the car. So yeah, this is something I'd pay to get done. $450 is an absolute rip off though.

obsidiansamurai

That's not too bad at all. Last time there was a lot of sludge and that was the dealership's excuse for charging more labor. Hopefully it's not that bad this time.

And Frank sounds like a cool guy - that hourly rate is pretty decent.

How dirty was your clutch fluid? 3 years seems like a long time, but maybe the internet is just exaggerating the importance of changing it once a year.

And yeah after watching some videos, I realize that with a lift and another person it shouldn't take ~$400 worth of labor, even if it was super dirty.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

It wasn't bad at 3 years, and it isn't bad now. Running Motul RBF600.


I think there is an unrepresentative % of 6MT cars on the internet posting about this problem, because a higher % of people posting on the forums and buying this car are enthusiasts, and more likely to be modding and a part of the community.

That being said, it's a weak link, and a deciding factor, for me, in opting for the extended warranty.

hexotic

John, the exchange rate is in your favour, although our gas is a lot more expensive right now.

Nico-derm

$1.45-$1.60 a litre translates to $5.40-6.0 a gallon lol Welcome to the north!

You do get to drop it by 1/3 due to the dollar but it’s still outta hand

obsidiansamurai

Either my slave or master cylinder went out today.

​​​​​​I was having my clutch fluid replaced and apparently the clutch completely lost pressure and fell to the floor. The mechanic is thinking it's the master cylinder, but I don't recall seeing anything off with it. So I had to see the poor car on a flatbed, strapped down and defenseless.

​​​​​Weirdly enough, my mechanic is right next door to the Z shop. The tow truck driver let me run over there and I'm looking to get a ZSpeed HD CSC and different master cylinder installed early next week. The Z shop guy kept mentioning the Wilwood HD master cylinder, but I see it's only available for the 350z/g35. Can this part be used for the g37 as well?