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Today I found the whole set from a late G35 (the one that looks like the G37). I had to compare with another G37 in the salvage yard to make sure it wasn't just mislabeled by the junkyard.
Idea is that instead of slotting bolt holes on a VQ35 manifold to get it to bolt to the VQ37 lower, I just got a VQ35 lower and fuel rail along with the upper. I've been assured that the lower intake bolts right up to the VQ37 heads but will have to check with the gaskets.
What I did *not* get (grr) is the hood on the G37 that was next to it - it had been sat on the ground and someone used it to stand on. Perfect before f'in foot-shaped dents. I'm starting to dispair of finding a used oem hood for less than the $400 shipped or so they seem to be from aftermarket folks - I really don't want to drop $800 on a carbon hood that I don't like and would rather mod an oem hood for air extraction.
I used to use Mother's Back-to-Black. But IMHO, Tire Gel works better and lasts longer.
I also use Tire Gel on the black plastics of my engine cover, and the radiator shroud... pieces like that. Rub it in and buff it out with a microfiber towel. You'll be shocked at how great it looks.
Has anyone tried and used 303 aerospace protectant? I have a bottle and used a little on some rubber things to add life to them (wiper blades, pre-soaked drive belt for wife's car). I have yet to use it on black trim yet, but many people swear by it for black trim/plastic too.
Has anyone tried and used 303 aerospace protectant? I have a bottle and used a little on some rubber things to add life to them (wiper blades, pre-soaked drive belt for wife's car). I have yet to use it on black trim yet, but many people swear by it for black trim/plastic too.
I use 303 for interior plastics. I like it because it wipes off without leaving a shine. Very natural looking finish. However, it's very expensive relative to similar products. Prep for sticker shock.
I used to use Mother's Back-to-Black. But IMHO, Tire Gel works better and lasts longer.
I also use Tire Gel on the black plastics of my engine cover, and the radiator shroud... pieces like that. Rub it in and buff it out with a microfiber towel. You'll be shocked at how great it looks.
Strange... I've never had good luck using tire gel on plastic trim.In fact, I actually had it create a staining effect on the plastic fenders on my Jeep, which I could never get to completely go away. It also tends to melt and run and generally just make a mess when the car sits in the hot sun all day. Even if you think you've gotten it all off it never seems to fully absorb into the plastic or rubber. I won't even use that stuff on my tires it's so messy.
Originally Posted by rotarymike
Today I found the whole set from a late G35 (the one that looks like the G37). I had to compare with another G37 in the salvage yard to make sure it wasn't just mislabeled by the junkyard.
Idea is that instead of slotting bolt holes on a VQ35 manifold to get it to bolt to the VQ37 lower, I just got a VQ35 lower and fuel rail along with the upper. I've been assured that the lower intake bolts right up to the VQ37 heads but will have to check with the gaskets.
I can confirm that the bottom flange on the lower intake manifold is the same between the 3.5HR and 3.7VHR motors. Only the upper flange is different... but why they changed the bolt pattern on the upper flange is beyond me...
Originally Posted by ngolbuff
Has anyone tried and used 303 aerospace protectant? I have a bottle and used a little on some rubber things to add life to them (wiper blades, pre-soaked drive belt for wife's car). I have yet to use it on black trim yet, but many people swear by it for black trim/plastic too.
Yeah, I use 303 all the time and definitely recommend it. It is by far the best protectant I have found for the vinyl soft top on our Jeep. It also works well for protecting interior plastics without leaving a greasy residue like many other so called "protectants". I also use the 303 UV protectant on almost all of my outdoor fabrics. My wife found out about this stuff many years ago on one of the Jeep forums since the Jeep seat covers have a tendancy to fade when exposed to the sun for long periods of time (i.e. leaving the top off all Summer, every Summer). After the first set of Jeep seat covers faded after about 18 months I bought a new set and sprayed with the 303 UV protectant. After several years they still haven't faded, but we do respray them with the 303 UV protectant every Spring. My wife even did an experiment using two identical fabric umbrellas. One she treated with the 303 UV protectant and one she didn't. And after just 3 months over full exposure to the sun on our back patio the one that she didn't spray turned almost a shade of pink while the other one that was treated maintained its original color. That's all the convincing I needed.
Does anyone else's driver's door rattle when you shut it with the window down?
Sounds like the tracks that hold your window glass in place as it moves in and out of the door may be starting to come loose... Should be a pretty simple fix just by removing the door panel and tightening the mounting bolts for the tracks. Just make sure the window is completely rolled up when you remove the door panel so it won't be in your way.
Here's a link to a good DIY off the old G35driver forum. The process is basically the same for our cars. I've already had to tighten down these tracks on my driver's side window several years ago. Incidentally, I did mine with the window up, but didn't need to readjust it. But it looks like the OP on this post did this with the window down, most likely to help him adjust the track position.
Sounds like the tracks that hold your window glass in place as it moves in and out of the door may be starting to come loose... Should be a pretty simple fix just by removing the door panel and tightening the mounting bolts for the tracks. Just make sure the window is completely rolled up when you remove the door panel so it won't be in your way.
Here's a link to a good DIY off the old G35driver forum. The process is basically the same for our cars. I've already had to tighten down these tracks on my driver's side window several years ago. Incidentally, I did mine with the window up, but didn't need to readjust it. But it looks like the OP on this post did this with the window down, most likely to help him adjust the track position.
Thanks and also for your help with the air bag resistors. Do you think the tolerance matters on those airbag resistors? I see packs of 30 on Amazon for not much more than the cost of one resistor on the link you sent me. Thanks.
Strange... I've never had good luck using tire gel on plastic trim.In fact, I actually had it create a staining effect on the plastic fenders on my Jeep, which I could never get to completely go away. It also tends to melt and run and generally just make a mess when the car sits in the hot sun all day. Even if you think you've gotten it all off it never seems to fully absorb into the plastic or rubber. I won't even use that stuff on my tires it's so messy.
Really? That is strange, that we would have such opposite opinions on this. Maybe it's the brand? I'm use Maguiar's Endurance Tire Gel.
I can confirm that the bottom flange on the lower intake manifold is the same between the 3.5HR and 3.7VHR motors. Only the upper flange is different... but why they changed the bolt pattern on the upper flange is beyond me...
Probably to prevent the dealer and/or shops from inadvertently switching the two parts - there was a period of time both motors were in current production cars IIRC. But the cost of the new molds alone were probably significant, and that gets rolled into the cost of the newer car...
The fuel rail is different too. Most obvious difference is the VQ37 rail is round, and the VQ35 rail is square tubing. Actually looks like it has more volume. Are the injectors the same? The VQ35 motor had green plastic injectors. Didn't mess with the 37 but it wouldn't hurt to have a spare set to send off to be cleaned.
Sometimes I wonder why carmakers don't do more parts bin engineering for economies of scale, but on the nicer end... if all cars above 3000 pounds that Nissan/Infiniti made used the Akebono calipers, fo'rinstance, there would be a few dozen less parts in the supply chain, including the engineering for those parts and all the logistics of spares etc. That would probably save quite a bit of money, such that the base cost to manufacture for each individual car only increased negligibly. Accountants love to say "but if we add $50 to the cost of each car, and we make a million cars, then that costs us 50 million more dollars" when the actual economics is that each car will cost the consumer $75 more and the company will *make* 25mil more.
//rant off. I'm having people in legal affairs and legislative positions shove this false economics at me this AM.
//rant off. I'm having people in legal affairs and legislative positions shove this false economics at me this AM.
You've got this funny M.O. where you write detailed, rambling comments, then close with an observation on the very comment you just made, or your motivations for what you said. I think you've done that twice today.
Probably to prevent the dealer and/or shops from inadvertently switching the two parts - there was a period of time both motors were in current production cars IIRC. But the cost of the new molds alone were probably significant, and that gets rolled into the cost of the newer car...
The fuel rail is different too. Most obvious difference is the VQ37 rail is round, and the VQ35 rail is square tubing. Actually looks like it has more volume. Are the injectors the same? The VQ35 motor had green plastic injectors. Didn't mess with the 37 but it wouldn't hurt to have a spare set to send off to be cleaned.
Sometimes I wonder why carmakers don't do more parts bin engineering for economies of scale, but on the nicer end... if all cars above 3000 pounds that Nissan/Infiniti made used the Akebono calipers, fo'rinstance, there would be a few dozen less parts in the supply chain, including the engineering for those parts and all the logistics of spares etc. That would probably save quite a bit of money, such that the base cost to manufacture for each individual car only increased negligibly. Accountants love to say "but if we add $50 to the cost of each car, and we make a million cars, then that costs us 50 million more dollars" when the actual economics is that each car will cost the consumer $75 more and the company will *make* 25mil more.
//rant off. I'm having people in legal affairs and legislative positions shove this false economics at me this AM.
Akebonos are far heavier and require more material to make. as far as part bin. They are already doing this with calipers. You'll see that for a cycle of years the same caliper will be used and only brackets will change.The hardware, boots, pistons, pins and bolts would all interchange regardless of the vehicle. I've been listening to a podcast on Planned Obsolescence that talks about this, more effort into making these last longer would decrease revenue for the manufacturer over time. In all reality their obligation is for it to last until its warranty expires.
Domestic manufacturers are already pros at this, this is why most Japanese manufactures have the reputation they have because of the culture they follow, things will last for ever if taken care of and everything has a purpose.
You've got this funny M.O. where you write detailed, rambling comments, then close with an observation on the very comment you just made
So how do I make this quote my signature line? It is apropos. lol.
Detailed and rambling describes my job duties and ADD effects pretty well. Unfortunately, I'm smart enough to realize that occasionally I think I know something but in reality I'm full of shi fen. Life would be happier if I actually believed what I was saying was fully true all the time. It is one of the reasons I like fast cars - specifically track driving. The purity of speed provides a clarity of purpose that excludes the mundane.
Also, I have a serious caffeine dependency and when Vitamin Coffee < 40oz I am not terribly coherent. So true to form, I iterate.
07-03-2019, 03:00 PM
Akebonos are far heavier and require more material to make. as far as part bin. They are already doing this with calipers. You'll see that for a cycle of years the same caliper will be used and only brackets will change.The hardware, boots, pistons, pins and bolts would all interchange regardless of the vehicle. I've been listening to a podcast on Planned Obsolescence that talks about this, more effort into making these last longer would decrease revenue for the manufacturer over time. In all reality their obligation is for it to last until its warranty expires.
