Sedan Chat Thread
Registered Member
Anyone know if the OEM G35, 350Z and/or 370Z shift ***** would fit a G sedan without any modifications?
From research it seems the G37 is cross-compatible with the 2009+ Nissan 370Z, but checking to see if anyone here has experience with the others. Thanks
G35:
350Z:
From research it seems the G37 is cross-compatible with the 2009+ Nissan 370Z, but checking to see if anyone here has experience with the others. Thanks
G35:
350Z:
Registered Member
After buying severe gear oil for my diff fluid changes, I am receiving emails now from Amsoil. Turns out, they have a cool feature on their page that you can make an account and add your vehicles to your garage. With this, you can input all service work you (or others) have done at what mileage, cost, what products (even if its not amsoil), etc. Thought this was pretty handy as I have just been keeping track on my phone for oil changes and whatnot. After inputting vehicle information, they will also have a product page that gives you info on what product they recommend for each service as well as capacities. I think this will be much easier for me to keep track of for my vehicles' (motorcycle included) services as they can send reminder emails as well as be able to print off all entered service work for when you sell the vehicle.
https://www.amsoil.com/Garage/AmsoilGarage.aspx
https://www.amsoil.com/Garage/AmsoilGarage.aspx
Just put down a deposit on my next whip. G is getting detailed and tossed on the web for sale.
Many will say “why did you buy that!!?” But it’s been a long while since I’ve driven a car with so much giggle factor baked in.
Take delivery Wednesday of my pedestrian white VW Golf GTi Rabbit Edition manual.
Many will say “why did you buy that!!?” But it’s been a long while since I’ve driven a car with so much giggle factor baked in.
Take delivery Wednesday of my pedestrian white VW Golf GTi Rabbit Edition manual.
Registered Member
iTrader: (3)
Yes, it will fit with no problem. I had the 370Z ****, it was marginally thicker than the OEM Inifinit ****.I think most people don't like it because of the duplicate shift pattern.
Just put down a deposit on my next whip. G is getting detailed and tossed on the web for sale.
Many will say “why did you buy that!!?” But it’s been a long while since I’ve driven a car with so much giggle factor baked in.
Take delivery Wednesday of my pedestrian white VW Golf GTi Rabbit Edition manual.
Many will say “why did you buy that!!?” But it’s been a long while since I’ve driven a car with so much giggle factor baked in.
Take delivery Wednesday of my pedestrian white VW Golf GTi Rabbit Edition manual.
Premier Member
iTrader: (5)
Registered Member
A year ago, I had a Southbend stage 2 clutch installed w/ CMAK, and I had them put in DOT4 fluid due to the higher boiling point. Fast forward to today and my clutch fluid is awfully dirty. The clutch doesn't feel quite as smooth, but no symptoms other than that.
I've read that if you're not driving hard regularly, then DOT4 fluid will become dirty quicker than DOT3 (not sure if that's true or not). I'm also wondering if a new clutch will cause the fluid to become dirty quicker than normal.
My question is, should I use DOT3 or DOT4 fluid for a daily-driven stage 2 clutch that isn't tracked? Thanks ahead.
I've read that if you're not driving hard regularly, then DOT4 fluid will become dirty quicker than DOT3 (not sure if that's true or not). I'm also wondering if a new clutch will cause the fluid to become dirty quicker than normal.
My question is, should I use DOT3 or DOT4 fluid for a daily-driven stage 2 clutch that isn't tracked? Thanks ahead.
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
A year ago, I had a Southbend stage 2 clutch installed w/ CMAK, and I had them put in DOT4 fluid due to the higher boiling point. Fast forward to today and my clutch fluid is awfully dirty. The clutch doesn't feel quite as smooth, but no symptoms other than that.
I've read that if you're not driving hard regularly, then DOT4 fluid will become dirty quicker than DOT3 (not sure if that's true or not). I'm also wondering if a new clutch will cause the fluid to become dirty quicker than normal.
My question is, should I use DOT3 or DOT4 fluid for a daily-driven stage 2 clutch that isn't tracked? Thanks ahead.
I've read that if you're not driving hard regularly, then DOT4 fluid will become dirty quicker than DOT3 (not sure if that's true or not). I'm also wondering if a new clutch will cause the fluid to become dirty quicker than normal.
My question is, should I use DOT3 or DOT4 fluid for a daily-driven stage 2 clutch that isn't tracked? Thanks ahead.
Registered Member
FWIW, there's a TSB that recommends the G/Z 6MT use "GTR Brake Fluid" with the clutch, which is DOT4. Kind of pricey, tho.
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nissan.../dp/B00315C4VO
http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Nissan.../dp/B00315C4VO
Registered Member
iTrader: (8)
So, I got a new garage door system and it turns out the home-link on the G is too old to work with most modern ones. Most of anything made after like 2012-2013. Nissan never updated the mirror on the G so none of them will work.
I found the solution was to get a mirror off a 2015 + Q50. Just did the swap today on mine and works great,same connector and mounting.
I found the solution was to get a mirror off a 2015 + Q50. Just did the swap today on mine and works great,same connector and mounting.
The following 2 users liked this post by iCrap:
2GoRNot2G (07-01-2019),
Baadnewsburr (06-29-2019)
Registered Member
^wow, nice find.
Unfortunately, the nose of my car sees an hour or two of direct sunlight per day, resulting in faded plastic mesh in the lower air dam. Anyone have experience bringing this plastic back to life? Heat gun trick work? Or any brand of that plastic restoration goop stand out as most effective?
Unfortunately, the nose of my car sees an hour or two of direct sunlight per day, resulting in faded plastic mesh in the lower air dam. Anyone have experience bringing this plastic back to life? Heat gun trick work? Or any brand of that plastic restoration goop stand out as most effective?
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iTrader: (9)
Unfortunately, the nose of my car sees an hour or two of direct sunlight per day, resulting in faded plastic mesh in the lower air dam. Anyone have experience bringing this plastic back to life? Heat gun trick work? Or any brand of that plastic restoration goop stand out as most effective?
Maybe a decade ago, I discovered it works wonders with black plastic trim.
The following users liked this post:
STownSaint (07-03-2019)
Registered Member
iTrader: (8)
Has anyone tried doing an alignment with a kit like this?
https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/...gnment-system/
I'm so tired of alignment shops screwing me around. But on the other hand, not sure how easy or accurate it is to do it myself....
https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/...gnment-system/
I'm so tired of alignment shops screwing me around. But on the other hand, not sure how easy or accurate it is to do it myself....
The following users liked this post:
deepblue3 (07-04-2019)
Premier Member
iTrader: (5)
^wow, nice find.
Unfortunately, the nose of my car sees an hour or two of direct sunlight per day, resulting in faded plastic mesh in the lower air dam. Anyone have experience bringing this plastic back to life? Heat gun trick work? Or any brand of that plastic restoration goop stand out as most effective?
Unfortunately, the nose of my car sees an hour or two of direct sunlight per day, resulting in faded plastic mesh in the lower air dam. Anyone have experience bringing this plastic back to life? Heat gun trick work? Or any brand of that plastic restoration goop stand out as most effective?
The following users liked this post:
STownSaint (07-03-2019)
Administrator
iTrader: (9)
I also use Tire Gel on the black plastics of my engine cover, and the radiator shroud... pieces like that. Rub it in and buff it out with a microfiber towel. You'll be shocked at how great it looks.