Sedan Chat Thread
Moderator in Moderation
iTrader: (4)
I tend to heat up my brakes to the op temp of my pads, which I think the Hawk HPS5 are in the 300-600 range. Stickers burn off. Sometimes powdercoating re-flows...
Super Moderator
iTrader: (7)
You can buy a paste to paint on the edge of your rotors that will change color to indicate the highest temperature achieved. Look for a racing shop.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
my experience is strictly anecdotal of course but if it helps, I use a high heat spray paint and the decals are always "high temperature vinyl" and the clear over the decal is a high temp too... I track the car (only lapping and probably not the best driver) but I run RB600 and Blue NDX race pads (I think they are similar to the Hawk DTC race pads and the Carbotech race pads) year round...still haven't seen any discoloration on the calipers but I did melt the some street pads before switching to the NDX pads a few years ago but still no discoloration that I noticed....it may be the copper colour sticker on the black caliper doesn't show it but its also really cheap and easy to get rid of if you don't like it ...all good if its not for you just a suggestion...
Moderator in Moderation
iTrader: (4)
Huh, that changes my perceptions. "high temperature vinyl" seems to be an oxymoron though. Time to research...
I've used heat-treat chalk on the rotors before (changes colors when you hit the temp) when I first started racing, but eventually I got a non-contact infrared thermometer to check calipers and rotors after a session. Also let me see if the wheel bearings were unevenly hot (predicting impending failure, a big problem with the first-gen RX7s who have the front rotor and hub as all one piece with the wheel bearings inside). Now it lives in my kitchen to check whether the roast is done lol. On my RX-8 I saw 700+ a few times on longer tracks where you're just hammering the brakes at the end of the straights. Melted the powdercoat- they were sticky to the (with a tool) touch.
I've used Hawk HPS and HP+ on various street cars, even had HP+ on my Jeep. The HP5.0 seems to be the way to go for a heavier car like the G. On the track I like Hawk Blues up front and Blacks in the rear. RBF600 or ATE Superblue/Super as fluid (RIP superblue). I've used ATE fluid in street cars too and generally like it for that application - when my wife had a Mini we couldn't easily get all the damn european castrol fluids that were spec'd so it got the redline/ate/Aeroshell 41 treatment.
I've used heat-treat chalk on the rotors before (changes colors when you hit the temp) when I first started racing, but eventually I got a non-contact infrared thermometer to check calipers and rotors after a session. Also let me see if the wheel bearings were unevenly hot (predicting impending failure, a big problem with the first-gen RX7s who have the front rotor and hub as all one piece with the wheel bearings inside). Now it lives in my kitchen to check whether the roast is done lol. On my RX-8 I saw 700+ a few times on longer tracks where you're just hammering the brakes at the end of the straights. Melted the powdercoat- they were sticky to the (with a tool) touch.
I've used Hawk HPS and HP+ on various street cars, even had HP+ on my Jeep. The HP5.0 seems to be the way to go for a heavier car like the G. On the track I like Hawk Blues up front and Blacks in the rear. RBF600 or ATE Superblue/Super as fluid (RIP superblue). I've used ATE fluid in street cars too and generally like it for that application - when my wife had a Mini we couldn't easily get all the damn european castrol fluids that were spec'd so it got the redline/ate/Aeroshell 41 treatment.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Huh, that changes my perceptions. "high temperature vinyl" seems to be an oxymoron though. Time to research...
I've used heat-treat chalk on the rotors before (changes colors when you hit the temp) when I first started racing, but eventually I got a non-contact infrared thermometer to check calipers and rotors after a session. Also let me see if the wheel bearings were unevenly hot (predicting impending failure, a big problem with the first-gen RX7s who have the front rotor and hub as all one piece with the wheel bearings inside). Now it lives in my kitchen to check whether the roast is done lol. On my RX-8 I saw 700+ a few times on longer tracks where you're just hammering the brakes at the end of the straights. Melted the powdercoat- they were sticky to the (with a tool) touch.
I've used Hawk HPS and HP+ on various street cars, even had HP+ on my Jeep. The HP5.0 seems to be the way to go for a heavier car like the G. On the track I like Hawk Blues up front and Blacks in the rear. RBF600 or ATE Superblue/Super as fluid (RIP superblue). I've used ATE fluid in street cars too and generally like it for that application - when my wife had a Mini we couldn't easily get all the damn european castrol fluids that were spec'd so it got the redline/ate/Aeroshell 41 treatment.
I've used heat-treat chalk on the rotors before (changes colors when you hit the temp) when I first started racing, but eventually I got a non-contact infrared thermometer to check calipers and rotors after a session. Also let me see if the wheel bearings were unevenly hot (predicting impending failure, a big problem with the first-gen RX7s who have the front rotor and hub as all one piece with the wheel bearings inside). Now it lives in my kitchen to check whether the roast is done lol. On my RX-8 I saw 700+ a few times on longer tracks where you're just hammering the brakes at the end of the straights. Melted the powdercoat- they were sticky to the (with a tool) touch.
I've used Hawk HPS and HP+ on various street cars, even had HP+ on my Jeep. The HP5.0 seems to be the way to go for a heavier car like the G. On the track I like Hawk Blues up front and Blacks in the rear. RBF600 or ATE Superblue/Super as fluid (RIP superblue). I've used ATE fluid in street cars too and generally like it for that application - when my wife had a Mini we couldn't easily get all the damn european castrol fluids that were spec'd so it got the redline/ate/Aeroshell 41 treatment.
funny, about the thermometer....I never used the chalk, but I have used the contactless thermometer...same though, it gets used in the kitchen more than on the car...
I think the NDX Blue pads I use are similar to the Hawk blues...I left them on during daily driving due to the weight of the car too and the fact aht they never give me any trouble even in the cold...this car is a bit of a porker when it comes to brakes and definitely benefits from an aggressive pad...only drawback is the amount of dust...
about the powder coat, Slarti posted on another thread about the temps at which powder coat destabilizes, which, if i interpreted it correctly are lower than the temps of "High Heat" paint so maybe paint is a better option...I guess the trade off is that they are less resistant to chipping...
Moderator in Moderation
iTrader: (4)
The best option for brake colorizing is probably a catalyzed epoxy based paint like the G2 stuff.
As far as brakes... I ran Hawk Blues on my race 1st gen RX7. Had to drive it as a daily for a while due to mechanical issues with the regular car. Blues do NOT like being cold, they wore the rotors out so fast it was amazing. Also initial grip left bruises from the seatbelts. I've got a (nondigital) pic somewhere that the rotors had worn in from the edge by 2 nickels, about 3/16", in a few weeks. At one point I braked to a stop, lifted my foot and heard a 'clunk'. The pads had enough room between the caliper and rotor to drop out
Went back to metal masters on the street and just allocated time for tire and brake change at the track.
As far as brakes... I ran Hawk Blues on my race 1st gen RX7. Had to drive it as a daily for a while due to mechanical issues with the regular car. Blues do NOT like being cold, they wore the rotors out so fast it was amazing. Also initial grip left bruises from the seatbelts. I've got a (nondigital) pic somewhere that the rotors had worn in from the edge by 2 nickels, about 3/16", in a few weeks. At one point I braked to a stop, lifted my foot and heard a 'clunk'. The pads had enough room between the caliper and rotor to drop out
Went back to metal masters on the street and just allocated time for tire and brake change at the track.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
the G2 paint does look like the best option...if you do end up using it post up some pics, I'm curious to see the finish on the akebonos
right on regarding the brake pads, your experience with blues is pretty consistent with mine as far as rotor wear goes.. when I changed them last year I couldn't believe how much depth they took off...I will say though they were consistent in wear through and through but that may have been more of a testament to the rotors quality...I have since switched to the cheaper blank versions of the same rotors for less $$ and accepted that I will replace the rotors more often....that being said I was expecting them to be much worse in the cold than they were and was really paranoid about it at first expecting them to be all wooden but they ended up being very reliable and have an aggressive bite b during regular daily driving (but not the nasty initial bite that they give when track hot (or maybe I'm just used to it and don't notice lol)...its been a couple of years including winters now and I'm on my 2nd or 3rd set and my experience has been the same throughout i guess its a YMMV situation.....I read somewhere they reformulated the EBCs that I use a couple of years ago so they are more forgiving on rotors and in cold temps but so far rotor wear is still high but truth be told I could barely find any insight on the pads before I started using them other than super old forum posts on a corvette forum and a GTR forum (well before they were reformulated)...
right on regarding the brake pads, your experience with blues is pretty consistent with mine as far as rotor wear goes.. when I changed them last year I couldn't believe how much depth they took off...I will say though they were consistent in wear through and through but that may have been more of a testament to the rotors quality...I have since switched to the cheaper blank versions of the same rotors for less $$ and accepted that I will replace the rotors more often....that being said I was expecting them to be much worse in the cold than they were and was really paranoid about it at first expecting them to be all wooden but they ended up being very reliable and have an aggressive bite b during regular daily driving (but not the nasty initial bite that they give when track hot (or maybe I'm just used to it and don't notice lol)...its been a couple of years including winters now and I'm on my 2nd or 3rd set and my experience has been the same throughout i guess its a YMMV situation.....I read somewhere they reformulated the EBCs that I use a couple of years ago so they are more forgiving on rotors and in cold temps but so far rotor wear is still high but truth be told I could barely find any insight on the pads before I started using them other than super old forum posts on a corvette forum and a GTR forum (well before they were reformulated)...
Moderator in Moderation
iTrader: (4)
I'm looking at EBCs on our CX5 as there aren't a lot of performance options. Probably in the next few months, so I'll let you know how those go. Greens, though.
I'm still looking for the brakes of God. I want the world to stop spinning, briefly, when I hammer the brakes. I'm still pondering how to get aircraft style brake packs on a car.
737 brakes - 6 piston, multiple friction discs and rotors in a sandwich.
I'm still looking for the brakes of God. I want the world to stop spinning, briefly, when I hammer the brakes. I'm still pondering how to get aircraft style brake packs on a car.
737 brakes - 6 piston, multiple friction discs and rotors in a sandwich.
Moderator in Moderation
iTrader: (4)
Additional note - I did find out from G2 that it's OK to mix colors as long as you mix both cans of paint and both bottles of catalyst to keep the ratios right. They would not speculate as to what color mixing would do, though... IE, would blue and red = purple, or blue and red swirls like a bowling ball?
Registered Member
The feels like is -50 here atm, but here is what the G is reading. I started right up with a 3 year old battery, but it sure did make a ton of noise lol.
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Additional note - I did find out from G2 that it's OK to mix colors as long as you mix both cans of paint and both bottles of catalyst to keep the ratios right. They would not speculate as to what color mixing would do, though... IE, would blue and red = purple, or blue and red swirls like a bowling ball?
Moderator in Moderation
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by Hashim
that sounds psychedelic... I saw on their website they do color matching for car paint too
Wonder if they can do the newer Mazda ruby red? That's a lot nicer than the plain-old-crayola-red.
Premier Member
iTrader: (5)
Registered Member
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
The following users liked this post:
2GoRNot2G (01-31-2019)