DollHouz

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

Has anyone had this issue / know how to fix it? My TPMS light is flashing for 1 minute then remaining solid

qmantran

It means you have 1 or more malfunctioning TPMS sensor. The fix would be to figure out which TPMS sensor to replace and program the new TPMS sensor ID to the vehicle.

SheLLz

Does anyone have SPC rear camber arms with hotchkis? I was just told SPC and hotchkis wouldn't clear and SPL are the only ones between the 2 that clear hotchkis? Guy from Thpmotorsports just told me this.

hexotic

Im running SPC arms with Hotchkiss sways. There were some minor fitment issues, but I have whiteline endlinks, and adjusting them a bit fixed everything.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I've got the front end up on ramps in my garage, so that I can have better access the front bumper for cleaning, clay & wax. There are a good half-dozen paint chips throughout, and that entire lower bumper arm, well, I'm feeling that I'd like that repainted. Now that I'm into my 7th year, it's getting kind of beat up. Not so much bad at-a-glance, because it's not a highly visible aspect of the car. But still... not happy with it.

Anybody else discontent with their lower front bumper?

DollHouz

I know my front lip had a really shotty paint job done to it by the previous owner so its chipped from top to bottom but im waiting to just get the whole front end redone

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

Hmmm, I have Hotchkis sways, SPC rear camber arms, and stock end links. I haven't had a problem.

Were your sways hitting the SPC arm? If so, how serious of a bump would you have to go over for them to hit each other?

hexotic

Nothing was hitting, but it was really close, like 2 mm clearance. If I remember correctly, the sway bar was almost resting on the camber arm. If I hit a pothole or something, I dont know how much things could move and damage something. Just shortened the endlinks by 5 mm and everything clears perfectly.

Entcee

iTrader: (3)

Interesting. I have close to 1/2" clearance. What endlinks did you go with?

hexotic

Went with Whiteline. Its possible I was having an issue because the whiteline links were set longer than stock to begin with.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Here's a question for anyone.

Heard a noise tonight that surprised me, in between my house and the neighbor's house (which is separated only by our shared driveway), so car noises are always amplified in that situation. Anyway, shifter in neutral, foot on the brake and clutch out, there's a distinct rattle. If I depress the clutch, the rattle goes away. Let the clutch out, it's back.

Pretty consistent behavior. First time I've ever experienced it.

Any ideas?

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Usually the throw-out bearing but could be springs in clutch disc.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Yep. Throw-out bearing is what I've been reading up on. Could be the beginning of a worsening problem, or this could be the new (annoying) normal, or it could actually settle down. There doesn't seem to be any guarantee, but now that I'm hearing it, I'm surely going to be listening for it all the time, dammit.

And then there's this comment: "A bearing noise that occurs when releasing the clutch pedal to engage the clutch while in neutral, but goes away when the pedal is depressed is caused by a bad transmission input shaft bearing."

Hmm. Input shaft bearing... as if I understand any of this chit. All I'm hearing now is a $1000 transmission repair.

Car noises suck. They just do.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Derp. Replacing the input shaft bearing means dropping and dismantling the transmission. At that point, might as well look at a new clutch & flywheel. Which, honestly, I was never looking to do. I concluded long ago that I don't want to go that route.

God damn, this is going to get under my skin and worry the crap out of me. I know it.