future62

Wouldn't stick summer rubber make the car less prone to rotate?

And I've driven a lot of cars. Like I said I had a Z. I drove a 458 at the track and have driven various other high end cars. G's steering is not on the level. Neither was the Z. Slow, heavy, lacking feel. Not a deal breaker but definitely not a high point of the car. I have heard it improves a lot with fresh P/S fluid so I will give that a shot. As is though, not good.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

We all have our opinions.

I replaced my power steering fluid at ~24k with Redline and will probably do it again next oil change.

SupraOfDoom

So I got CAI and Exhaust, should I get a tuner (if so what would you recommend), or just get an actual tune?

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

I'm not sure what you did to the steering on your car, but IMO the Z/G still has one of the best feeling steering/chassis of anything else I've owned or driven. And I've owned (and tracked) a lot of "performance" cars over the past 30 years... from Mazda Miata's and RX7's to M3's and Porsche's and have also driven a couple of super cars at several driving schools. The only other sub $100K cars that I've owned or driven that have steering feel as good as or better than the G were a highly modified Kenny Bell Supercharged NB Miata and my Porsche 944 S2, which I still own for this very reason (my wife also owned a 1998 Honda Del Sol V-Tec that had really, really good steering, but that car was so under powered it made it a bit boring to drive IMO). I'm also very interested in driving the new Alpha Romeo Giulia (possibly to replace the G) because it's chassis and steering are supposed to be absolutely phenomenal.


I guess you are right and everyone is entitled to their opinions, but I just can't see how anyone would think that the FM chassis sucks. Unless maybe they own a base Journey model or something is set-up wrong.


You do make a valid point, Lego. I've had to replace my power steering fluid about every other year since I purchased my G in 2008 otherwise the steering becomes overly stiff and harsh and on occasion I've had the steering pump even start to moan and groan due to fluid cavitation. I replacement my power steering fluid with Royal Purple just a few months ago and just the fluid change made the steering feel so much livelier.

iCrap

iTrader: (8)

oh... I have never replaced the PS fluid. Maybe that's why the steering got so stiff. It never made any noises though. Which redline fluid are you using?

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

Try changing the power steering fluid to a high quality synthetic fluid and I bet you will be amazed at the difference.


I'm not sure what Red Line fluid Lego is running but I was previously using Red Line 30404 synthetic fluid... However, with the last fluid change I decided to try Royal Purple synthetic fluid since that's what I have been running in my Jeep for the past few years with great results.

future62

Now wait, I didn't say the FM chassis sucks. The chassis is great. It's just a little heavy (which is to be expected for a luxury sedan) and the steering feel is not great- though I readily admit it may be due to P/S fluid that's in need of replacement. "Stiff" is an accurate descriptor of the steering in my Z and G.... I will grab some Redline or Royal Purple fluid and see what difference that makes. Kind of a bummer that the P/S fluid is such a relatively high maintenance item but that's OK. It's cheap and easy to deal with.

SupraOfDoom

I'm thinking of one that could be tuned for 93 octane as well as 100 since our track sells that. Just would like to hear some recommendations.


Also anyone here using Z1 high flow cats / how do you like them?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

FWIW, I've been planning on an EcuTek dyno-tune in Spring 2018. And a gas tank or two before that happens, I'm also planning on cutting over to 93 octane.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Drove my G around for a number of errands yesterday, first time in almost a week. (Winter, meh.) It's also been driven relatively little since swapping the rear damper mounts and finally killing that horrible suspension noise. It really is wonderful only hearing the engine and exhaust. The suspension should never be part of that experience.

It was very rewarding, snow tires notwithstanding. Approaching my 7th year owning and modding this car, and I'm still psyched about it.

hexotic

I finally installed my Compustar remote starter only to realize that my OEM battery (about 1 year old) cant handle the brain module + my dashcam, and dies after about 3 nights in the underground parking. Picking up an Optima yellowtop next week... Another financial setback lol. Every time Im about to pull the trigger on the paddle shifters, some other expense comes up.

qmantran

If you're running your dash cam for parking mode you should consider buying a battery pack to power it to take the load off your vehicles battery.

What kind of dash cam are you running? I have a Thinkware 2-channel system

hexotic

Well, I have it set to turn off when the battery drops below 12 volts via Multi-Safer. Wasn't an issue till the remote starter was installed. The cold isn't helping my situation either. The battery I have now is a dealer installed new battery, but its the absolute minimal speced battery they could get away with. Everyone I talked to who has the same electronics hooped up, the issues go away with a slightly more powerful battery. Im going to do a test first to see what is draining it so much, and go from there.

jpg37

I have a tuner and can adjust the timing on the fly, would I get much gain from advancing the timing and running 100 octane fuel?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

You know, I'm out of my depth pretty quick here.

I believe advancing the timing introduces more low-end torque. However, the compromise is reduced overall efficiency, which translates into a less smooth engine and lowered mileage. Also, the advanced timing introduces early ignition, which is compensated by using gas with high octane additive, to retard ignition.

I suspect the net effect on power is similar to using short gears (although maybe not as dramatic), where the torque curve moves left. It doesn't increase power, per se, but it makes more of it available sooner, as power under the curve.

Right? Wrong? IDK