Sedan Chat Thread
12-20-2014, 07:34 PM
#5296
I pointed that out to Chris on Facebook VQNation page I believe if he recognizes the shiftknob in the picture haha 
It would've been easier if you were on facebook John. 
That custom support looks good John, better be safe than sorry.
Speaking of HFCs and such, I recently got an exhaust leak right in between the HFCs and the headers and that caused a SES light to come on, the reason for that was the Berk soft crush graphite gaskets have blown out, and I invested in the Z1 New multilayered steel HR/VHR Manifold 3 Bolt Gaskets, only to find out that not one side but both sides had leaks, and now with these gaskets I won't have anything to worry about, as these are superior quality reusable gaskets.
Z1 Metal HR/VHR Manifold 3 Bolt Gaskets
While the car was on the lift, I had a look at my Berk HFCs and how they are mounted up to the crossbrace to support the weight of the exhaust, and glad that there are mounts on HFCs connected and supported by that crossbrace as the next mounting points for the exhaust are all the way back by where the mid pipe resonators go into the axle back.
It would've been easier if you were on facebook John. That custom support looks good John, better be safe than sorry.
Got a link for that, Willis?Speaking of HFCs and such, I recently got an exhaust leak right in between the HFCs and the headers and that caused a SES light to come on, the reason for that was the Berk soft crush graphite gaskets have blown out, and I invested in the Z1 New multilayered steel HR/VHR Manifold 3 Bolt Gaskets, only to find out that not one side but both sides had leaks, and now with these gaskets I won't have anything to worry about, as these are superior quality reusable gaskets.
Z1 Metal HR/VHR Manifold 3 Bolt Gaskets
While the car was on the lift, I had a look at my Berk HFCs and how they are mounted up to the crossbrace to support the weight of the exhaust, and glad that there are mounts on HFCs connected and supported by that crossbrace as the next mounting points for the exhaust are all the way back by where the mid pipe resonators go into the axle back.
Last edited by Mik3G37S; 12-20-2014 at 10:57 PM.
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Rochester (12-20-2014)
12-20-2014, 08:03 PM
#5298
12-22-2014, 02:22 AM
#5301
Just posted my initial thoughts on my newest mods in my build thread including Takeda long tube CAI, Motordyne M370, Hotchkiss sways with Whiteline endlinks, Hawk HPS pads, Stoptech slotted rotors, Motul brake fluid, and Cusco FSTB. Go check it out!
12-22-2014, 05:38 PM
#5302
Agreed.
Here's another on-topic question: wouldn't the car handle better when dropped equidistant to OEM height specifications? I'm thinking if the car were modified so that the rear fender-gap were to match the front fender-gap... that would be less than optimal, from a handling POV.
And while that might be true, perhaps no so much as to notice or matter.
Here's another on-topic question: wouldn't the car handle better when dropped equidistant to OEM height specifications? I'm thinking if the car were modified so that the rear fender-gap were to match the front fender-gap... that would be less than optimal, from a handling POV.
And while that might be true, perhaps no so much as to notice or matter.
That, I dunno.
Suspensions have multiple moving parts all w/ their own variance, when it all adds up there will be some differences, just a nature of the mechanics involved. When you put all new lowering springs on a G for example and go to measure side to side it's very rare to have an exact match. An eighth of an inch is pretty normal IME.
I'd say that 50+ lbs of lead in the battery would maybe account for that 1/8 of an inch difference between driver and passenger side front.
I'm going to re-post this comment here, because we were talking about it. Alfredo wanted the same info, so this is in his thread, too. I wish I had pics, and I wholly intended to. But when I whipped out the camera, I discovered the battery was back at home in the charger. I had one of the guys take pics, but they got spammed out of my email, probably because of file-size. (sigh). If ever get them, I'll be sure and pass it along. If not, then Springtime, when the catback goes on the car.
Anyway, here's my feedback on the topic:
Anyway, here's my feedback on the topic:
A small block of metal, like the size of a biggish domino, was very securely welded to the mid-pipe section of each RHFC, with two holes drilled through each. On the other side of each hole, a nut was welded on; (to avoid crescent wrench BS in tight spaces.)
The OEM support beam had the 1" turned-up ends cut off, and a length of L-shaped metal was then welded to the OEM support piece, turning it into a large D-shape, if you can visualize that.
The whole thing bolts right back up where it was originally mounted on the transmission, using the two OEM bolts with bushings, and two new bolts on each corner into the customized section.
Then all the edges were trimmed up, and everything was painted. I have to say, it looks extraordinarily OEM at first glance. It's really a superior, creative piece of work. Welding and creative solutions are this guy's forte. I'm am seriously impressed.
As for changes... there is ZERO vibration now from the exhaust! I'm rather shocked about that. So that's a huge win... that and the confidence in knowing I may have headed off a cat-failure down the road.
[edit] Just got the pics! Here, this should be self-explanatory:The OEM support beam had the 1" turned-up ends cut off, and a length of L-shaped metal was then welded to the OEM support piece, turning it into a large D-shape, if you can visualize that.
The whole thing bolts right back up where it was originally mounted on the transmission, using the two OEM bolts with bushings, and two new bolts on each corner into the customized section.
Then all the edges were trimmed up, and everything was painted. I have to say, it looks extraordinarily OEM at first glance. It's really a superior, creative piece of work. Welding and creative solutions are this guy's forte. I'm am seriously impressed.
As for changes... there is ZERO vibration now from the exhaust! I'm rather shocked about that. So that's a huge win... that and the confidence in knowing I may have headed off a cat-failure down the road.
John, that looks fantastic! Depending on what I do, I may have this same mod done on my RHFC's. Thanks to you and Matt for being pioneers and taking on this project.
More on the ride-height discussion from the other day...
I measured pavement to fender lip today. It was bitter cold, but this whole thing is getting me super curious. Plus, yesterday I spoke to my mechanic about the idea of customizing a set of ES coil bushings into the cone-shaped bumper-stop on the rears. We were eye-balling that idea while the car was up on the lift, and he's totally good with it. So, with consideration to duckfeet and snow tires at OEM spec'd size:
Some immediate observations:
Final analysis (for me), let's split the difference, and say that RWD Swift Springs result in a 1/2" discontinuity in vertical fender gap front to rear. That's irrespective of how level the frame of the car is, or how asymmetrical the two fender wheel arches are to one another.
The million dollar question (or $300 question, as the case may be), is whether or not lifting the rear end 1/2" is going to cause my rear Vossens to poke in a way that's noticeable. I don't know that answer. If I put a floor jack and a block of wood under the rear diff, and jacked it a 1/2", maybe...?
And if you look at the available options for Energy Suspension Coil-Spring isolators: Energy Suspension 9.6120 Coil Spring Isolators - Style A - 96120 Made by Energy Suspension ...you'll see that there are only two choices in the diameters that would work. One is Part #9.6120 at 5/8", and the other is Part #9.6101 at 3/8". So I suppose if I'm worried about poke because of a lift, then I should probably consider the 3/8" bushing over the 5/8" bushing.
That makes some sense. At least, today it does.
I measured pavement to fender lip today. It was bitter cold, but this whole thing is getting me super curious. Plus, yesterday I spoke to my mechanic about the idea of customizing a set of ES coil bushings into the cone-shaped bumper-stop on the rears. We were eye-balling that idea while the car was up on the lift, and he's totally good with it. So, with consideration to duckfeet and snow tires at OEM spec'd size:
- Driver Front - 27"
- Driver Rear - 26 3/8"
- Passenger Front - 26 7/8"
- Passenger Rear - 26 4/8"
Some immediate observations:
- While I assumed the parking lot I was using was level, it seems either that's a really hard scenario to find, my measuring skills are less than accurate, or being off by 1/8" give or take is just a normal thing. I'm thinking all three.
- There is a 3/8" to 5/8" inch difference in gap from tire to fender between the front and back.
Final analysis (for me), let's split the difference, and say that RWD Swift Springs result in a 1/2" discontinuity in vertical fender gap front to rear. That's irrespective of how level the frame of the car is, or how asymmetrical the two fender wheel arches are to one another.
The million dollar question (or $300 question, as the case may be), is whether or not lifting the rear end 1/2" is going to cause my rear Vossens to poke in a way that's noticeable. I don't know that answer. If I put a floor jack and a block of wood under the rear diff, and jacked it a 1/2", maybe...?
And if you look at the available options for Energy Suspension Coil-Spring isolators: Energy Suspension 9.6120 Coil Spring Isolators - Style A - 96120 Made by Energy Suspension ...you'll see that there are only two choices in the diameters that would work. One is Part #9.6120 at 5/8", and the other is Part #9.6101 at 3/8". So I suppose if I'm worried about poke because of a lift, then I should probably consider the 3/8" bushing over the 5/8" bushing.
That makes some sense. At least, today it does.
I'd venture to guess the battery is the culprit for that 1/8" difference between driver and passenger front. May not sound like much weight but it can have an impact. For grins, maybe measure your car's ride height when the gas tank is on empty and then again when it's full. I'd venture to guess that makes a difference as well in the measurements.
Just posted my initial thoughts on my newest mods in my build thread including Takeda long tube CAI, Motordyne M370, Hotchkiss sways with Whiteline endlinks, Hawk HPS pads, Stoptech slotted rotors, Motul brake fluid, and Cusco FSTB. Go check it out!
Kirk, your car is looking great! You must have been like a kid on Christmas morning getting all of those parts installed at one time! It's like enjoying your car all over again with the mods on isn't it?
12-22-2014, 05:46 PM
#5303
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
You do it, man. Put a tape measure in your car and take some measurements before/after the next time you fill up on empty.
12-22-2014, 05:57 PM
#5304
Gas weighs between 6 and 6.5 lbs per gallon, depending on the specific gravity of course. So at that rate, a full tank of can be equivalent to up to 100+ lbs of weight on the suspension. Nevertheless, I'll give it a go the next time I fill up which should be in the next day or so.
12-22-2014, 06:01 PM
#5305
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
I'm all for it, but also note that I'm at a bastardized form of stock ride height. Koni Yellow's on stock springs raised my ride height in the front somewhat, but the rears stayed the same for the most part. I didn't log any hard measurements on that. Just before and then after...which I didn't write down. Nevertheless, I'll give it a go the next time I fill up which should be in the next day or so.
I drove it a bit yesterday and today, and I am all smiles about how smooth 1st and 2nd gear shifts are again. Feel kind of foolish, actually. I should have known better last spring after the cats were installed.
12-22-2014, 06:11 PM
#5306
Me too. Although with a half tank in the car, and winter all around, it will probably be a few weeks before I'm on empty.
I drove it a bit yesterday and today, and I am all smiles about how smooth 1st and 2nd gear shifts are again. Feel kind of foolish, actually. I should have known better last spring after the cats were installed.
I drove it a bit yesterday and today, and I am all smiles about how smooth 1st and 2nd gear shifts are again. Feel kind of foolish, actually. I should have known better last spring after the cats were installed.
12-22-2014, 10:09 PM
#5309
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
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