ChinkyChoy

iTrader: (2)

If I am doing the front end conversion and I don't have AFS headlights on my 08 will the 10+ AFS headlights still work? like the headlights work don't care for the AFS portion

muyrec

Think it'll work without any trouble.but your headlights won't swivel. The problem will be if your '08 has afs and gonna be putting in non afs headlights in. The AFS light will turn on. Wish i can do the front end conversion but afs headlights are such a pain to source!

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I'm going to re-post this comment here, because we were talking about it. Alfredo wanted the same info, so this is in his thread, too. I wish I had pics, and I wholly intended to. But when I whipped out the camera, I discovered the battery was back at home in the charger. I had one of the guys take pics, but they got spammed out of my email, probably because of file-size. (sigh). If ever get them, I'll be sure and pass it along. If not, then Springtime, when the catback goes on the car.

Anyway, here's my feedback on the topic:
[edit] Just got the pics! Here, this should be self-explanatory:

ChinkyChoy

iTrader: (2)

that's a really interesting solution I was going to have a guy cut the OEM mounts off the cats but looks like that wont work.

The only change I would make to it is to cut the center portion of the bar off

+1 for the painted cats

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I'm going to get the front end up on ramps a few times over the next couple of months, just to check those bolts aren't backing off. It might be a good idea to use lock-washers, IDK.

Thanks. Yeah, my mechanic Matt is really good at stuff like this. It doesn't pay nearly as well as brake jobs on old minivans, but it's neat when he's in the zone on a problem.

When he saw my INFINITI projectors in the doors, he laughed and called them Nerd Lights. (dammit) Oh well.

RexHavoc

iTrader: (7)

Looks good John. I'll have to take a look at mine one of these days and see what's doing, especially with as much as I've been scraping lately.

RexHavoc

iTrader: (7)

So.... We are in the presence of a celebrity. Photos of our very own Rochester's G have made it around the globe and are inspiring some folks in JDM land to try and redo their shifter *****. All hail Rochester

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

More on the ride-height discussion from the other day...

I measured pavement to fender lip today. It was bitter cold, but this whole thing is getting me super curious. Plus, yesterday I spoke to my mechanic about the idea of customizing a set of ES coil bushings into the cone-shaped bumper-stop on the rears. We were eye-balling that idea while the car was up on the lift, and he's totally good with it. So, with consideration to duckfeet and snow tires at OEM spec'd size:

• Driver Front - 27"
• Driver Rear - 26 3/8"
• Passenger Front - 26 7/8"
• Passenger Rear - 26 4/8"

Some immediate observations:

• While I assumed the parking lot I was using was level, it seems either that's a really hard scenario to find, my measuring skills are less than accurate, or being off by 1/8" give or take is just a normal thing. I'm thinking all three.
• There is a 3/8" to 5/8" inch difference in gap from tire to fender between the front and back.

Final analysis (for me), let's split the difference, and say that RWD Swift Springs result in a 1/2" discontinuity in vertical fender gap front to rear. That's irrespective of how level the frame of the car is, or how asymmetrical the two fender wheel arches are to one another.



The million dollar question (or $300 question, as the case may be), is whether or not lifting the rear end 1/2" is going to cause my rear Vossens to poke in a way that's noticeable. I don't know that answer. If I put a floor jack and a block of wood under the rear diff, and jacked it a 1/2", maybe...?

And if you look at the available options for Energy Suspension Coil-Spring isolators: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=9.6120 ...you'll see that there are only two choices in the diameters that would work. One is Part #9.6120 at 5/8", and the other is Part #9.6101 at 3/8". So I suppose if I'm worried about poke because of a lift, then I should probably consider the 3/8" bushing over the 5/8" bushing.

That makes some sense. At least, today it does.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Got a link for that, Willis?

G37Xtreme

Is this generally considered unsafe?

I have a driveway that slopes away from my house. I can only fit half my car into the garage. It's fine (by my standards) to roll up on rhino ramps into the garage and chock the rear wheels ( when doing an oil change). The rear locks up when in park, plus there are chocks as added insurance.

What about backing halfway into the garage and jacking up the rear though? This would put the Jack on level ground, but the front end would be on a decline. I would of course chock the front wheels, but I'm trying to determine if this is sound.

I'm not getting under the car, I just need to adjust my parking brakes.

Part of me says it will be ok, the chock well hold, and the other part says, Murphy's Law.

I have awd...will the front wheels spin freely in neutral? I assume I need neutral instead of park as you need to spin the back wheels when adjusting the parking brake so you know it's not too tight. In order to do this, I need both back wheels off the ground right? Do they spin independently without the vsld?

AroundTheG37

iTrader: (8)

Good info rochester on the springs. I'm still going with coils but any future swift owners (mine will be for sale soon) should definitely give that a try if even gap is what they desire.

As for the cats possible fail solution (LOL @fast intentions not responding this situation), your mechanic has skills. I have a exhaust pro shop near me that I've never checked out so maybe I'll have them take a look. Quick question if you don't mind me asking, how much did it cost?

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I was there for pretty much the whole morning, but he only charged me an even $100 +tax. And we talked a lot about mod plans for the car. The catback this Spring, a short-throw shifter in the summer, maybe these coil spring isolators in the fall, the rear-diff gear swap and frame bushings, sway-bar end-links, the clutch pedal assembly.... and so on and so-forth.

And hey, all things considered, that was a nice post you just wrote there. It must be Christmas.

Lego_Maniac

iTrader: (3)

I probably wouldn't do that....when I jacked up the rear of my Subaru and BMW on a slight slope they both drifted forward onto the chocks. If its a steep slope I'd figure something else out.

Can you just jack up each side individually and adjust your parking brake?

And why do you need to adjust your parking brake?

G37Xtreme

I'll try one side at a time. I read something about turning the wheel to make sure it's not too tight. If in park, I can't do that test, and even in neutral, not sure one side would spin freely if the other is on the ground.

My parking brake doesn't hold the car on my driveway. I put it on all the way, and though it slows it, it can't hold it still.

I don't want the parking pawl to get worn out our cause other wear, and would prefer for the parking brake to do all the work.

I may even have to replace them, but adjustment seems like the first thing to try.

From what I've read, once the wheel is off, I should see a black cap in the rotor. The adjustment is right behind that.

RexHavoc

iTrader: (7)

Let me see if I can find it. It was on the FB VQ Nation page I think.