Just bought my first G37x😲 and im kind of lost...🤯
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just bought my first G37x😲 and im kind of lost...🤯
Let me introduce myself, the name is pearce beach kinda unique but im proud of it, since i was a kid ive worked on cars became a mechanic did the rounds as a lube tech hated it... pos company famous for lying... wont get into it however, worked for autozone, and actually kindof liked it, for two years as management, and had the opportunity to really help people learn about their cars. you could say its a passion, the whole mechanical mindset thing, after that i got a good offer from my current company, as a press engineer, machines in general facinate me. Im 22 years old and i was able to buy my dream car that i have wanted for a good 6-7 years, well that and a gto judge... and i definently did prior research on the car, seeing as i spent 2 years just looking for one i liked and narrowing down tranny packages and stick vs auto, times nd comparions of such, finally i just bought one... well i ****ing love it, but i had nooo idea how much i could do to it, the whole riceing deal. But beyond that performance and im not exactly sure where to start... and whats actually best for my car, whats a waste of money and whats a steal... when it comes to performance, like cobbs flash? Or a dyno tune? I have experience with cars but not with such expensive options those were never really a thing for us... just turbo 12 pounds and see what happens right?
#2
Intakes, most guys here will swear by R2C however i think Takeda feels and sounds absolutely amazing.
Z1 Intake manifolds
I like Megan Racing Headers
FI or Z1 High Flow Cats
Exhaust is more of what you prefer, but i love Borla.
After all that, its things like clutch, brake lines, other supportive things to prep yourself for forced induction.
Z1 Intake manifolds
I like Megan Racing Headers
FI or Z1 High Flow Cats
Exhaust is more of what you prefer, but i love Borla.
After all that, its things like clutch, brake lines, other supportive things to prep yourself for forced induction.
#4
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
Welcome to the site Pearce, looks like you'll have fun here
Check these starter threads, should give you plenty of food for thought~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/newbie-...rformance.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/newbie-...read-this.html
And a great exhaust compilation for coupes~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...st-thread.html
Check these starter threads, should give you plenty of food for thought~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/newbie-...rformance.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/newbie-...read-this.html
And a great exhaust compilation for coupes~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...st-thread.html
The following users liked this post:
Vizard_87 (04-26-2018)
#5
Registered Member
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the site Pearce, looks like you'll have fun here
Check these starter threads, should give you plenty of food for thought~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/newbie-...rformance.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/newbie-...read-this.html
And a great exhaust compilation for coupes~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...st-thread.html
Check these starter threads, should give you plenty of food for thought~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/newbie-...rformance.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/newbie-...read-this.html
And a great exhaust compilation for coupes~
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...st-thread.html
#6
Let me introduce myself, the name is pearce beach kinda unique but im proud of it, since i was a kid ive worked on cars became a mechanic did the rounds as a lube tech hated it... pos company famous for lying... wont get into it however, worked for autozone, and actually kindof liked it, for two years as management, and had the opportunity to really help people learn about their cars. you could say its a passion, the whole mechanical mindset thing, after that i got a good offer from my current company, as a press engineer, machines in general facinate me. Im 22 years old and i was able to buy my dream car that i have wanted for a good 6-7 years, well that and a gto judge... and i definently did prior research on the car, seeing as i spent 2 years just looking for one i liked and narrowing down tranny packages and stick vs auto, times nd comparions of such, finally i just bought one... well i ****ing love it, but i had nooo idea how much i could do to it, the whole riceing deal. But beyond that performance and im not exactly sure where to start... and whats actually best for my car, whats a waste of money and whats a steal... when it comes to performance, like cobbs flash? Or a dyno tune? I have experience with cars but not with such expensive options those were never really a thing for us... just turbo 12 pounds and see what happens right?
I have the GESI high flow cats, they are awesome.
#7
My philosophy on tuning and modding is to maximize what you currently have then start on your wish list.
In order of importance for my build:
1. The best tires for the street. Tires are the only things connecting your car to the pavement. Going fast and safe depends on these. I have a set for summer and a set for winter.
2. Brakes. I have a set of pads for the street and one for the track. This should be obvious, but if you're hauling it, you want to be able to stop.
3. Handling upgrades to put the power down. For your X, I'd look at sway bars first and foremost. The rear bar is one of the thinnest of all the models. I'd do the endlinks at the same time.
4. Exhaust doesn't gain you much so sound is the determining factor here. Pick your poison. FI, Motordyne, Ark, Stillen, Invidia, and etc.
5. Intake is diminishing returns since you only realistically gain marginal hp and tq increases. But if you really want, K&N panel filters, I feel, are the best bang for your buck. The stock air boxes have air routed from ducts that flank the radiator and draw cool air from the grille area. This is pretty well designed. Otherwise, most performance oriented builds go with long tube style intakes.
6. Fluid changes as needed. I went almost all synthetic for my fluids. Engine oil, brake, clutch, manual trans, differential, power steering, and coolant.
7. Coilovers or better springs and dampers once you have some time with the car.
Finally, train to be the best driver, not racer, you can be. 360 awareness and smart decision making will keep the car with you for a long time.
Welcome to the site and see you around.
In order of importance for my build:
1. The best tires for the street. Tires are the only things connecting your car to the pavement. Going fast and safe depends on these. I have a set for summer and a set for winter.
2. Brakes. I have a set of pads for the street and one for the track. This should be obvious, but if you're hauling it, you want to be able to stop.
3. Handling upgrades to put the power down. For your X, I'd look at sway bars first and foremost. The rear bar is one of the thinnest of all the models. I'd do the endlinks at the same time.
4. Exhaust doesn't gain you much so sound is the determining factor here. Pick your poison. FI, Motordyne, Ark, Stillen, Invidia, and etc.
5. Intake is diminishing returns since you only realistically gain marginal hp and tq increases. But if you really want, K&N panel filters, I feel, are the best bang for your buck. The stock air boxes have air routed from ducts that flank the radiator and draw cool air from the grille area. This is pretty well designed. Otherwise, most performance oriented builds go with long tube style intakes.
6. Fluid changes as needed. I went almost all synthetic for my fluids. Engine oil, brake, clutch, manual trans, differential, power steering, and coolant.
7. Coilovers or better springs and dampers once you have some time with the car.
Finally, train to be the best driver, not racer, you can be. 360 awareness and smart decision making will keep the car with you for a long time.
Welcome to the site and see you around.
Trending Topics
#8
DIY Cheapskate/Mod
Since you got the 7at X, from my personal experience:
#1 would be Sway bars. I cant stress how much this changes the car. I absolutely regretted not making this my first mod after doing it a year into ownership. Would also do endlinks while you're at it. Strut tower bar will also help with oversteer a little, but isn't mandatory. P.S. make sure its the awd model sway bars.
Tires will go a huge way as well. Something sticky. The car has lots of potential, but tires can make or break the whole build.
Exhaust won't get you huge power numbers, but if you can just take out the bottleneck at the mufflers, It helps a lot. Our sedans have a bottleneck where the pipe meets the mufflers, down to 1.5"..... Being an AWD, not all sedan exhausts will fit your car. Ark, Stillen, Top Speed are some options that will. If you want an intake, go long tube like Takeda or Stillen. Admin Tuning will get you the top performance numbers. Short rams will get you sound, but without proper heat shielding will heat soak. Best bang for the buck is swapping the bendystraw looking intake tubes to smooth silicone ones and swapping K&N panel filters into the airboxes.
Check that your transmission software is at the latest version. When the 2014 q50 came out, they updated the software and it actually makes a (barely noticeable) difference. (but a difference nonetheless) Slightly faster shifts, less confusion.
Don't get new wheels before you sort out the suspension. The X sedan sits the highest of any v36 car. Coils or springs + front camber arms and rear camber and toe bolts/arms.
Tune is a good idea once you get some breather mods done. Just stock, a tune wont do too much except maybe lean out the air fuel ratio a bit since our sedans run a tiny bit rich. There is virtually no differences between uprev and ecutek. You can check out the Admin Tuning youtube channel where they test both software and the differences are negligible.
Overall, focus on handling mods. The power is there, but putting it down can use work. You can drop 5k in bolt-ons and gain like 20-30 horsepower, but half that money in suspension and tires and the car will be a completely different beast.
Other notes: (depending on the km and year of the car)
- If its 2010 or prior, timing chain cover gasket can be a huge pain in the ***
- over 100k, might need to check and replace your spark plugs
- clean throttle bodies and do an idle relearn
- 7AT cars benefit from grounding kits. Can just make your own. You'll notice more responsive shifts, less input lag in the throttle pedal, better sound quality from your speakers, and healthier battery.
- Older models had those maintenance required batteries that can be a pain in the ***, so I would switch out to an AGM battery or just spend high and get an optima yellowtop. Not necessary, but nice to have, especially in cold climate.
- Check transfer case. Its rare, but sometimes the seals do start to leak.
- Check rear differential bushing. its a liquid filled bushing, and it does have a tendency to burst.
- Cabin Air Filter. Good idea to swap this out. Have to drop the glovebox, and while you're at it, read next point.
- AWD Bypass. While the glovebox is out, you have access to a wire you can cut and add a switch to. Basically disables your awd system so you can enjoy rwd fun or even run staggered wheels in the summer. Just make sure to only use this switch when the car is turned off. You can find how to on this site or on youtube.
#1 would be Sway bars. I cant stress how much this changes the car. I absolutely regretted not making this my first mod after doing it a year into ownership. Would also do endlinks while you're at it. Strut tower bar will also help with oversteer a little, but isn't mandatory. P.S. make sure its the awd model sway bars.
Tires will go a huge way as well. Something sticky. The car has lots of potential, but tires can make or break the whole build.
Exhaust won't get you huge power numbers, but if you can just take out the bottleneck at the mufflers, It helps a lot. Our sedans have a bottleneck where the pipe meets the mufflers, down to 1.5"..... Being an AWD, not all sedan exhausts will fit your car. Ark, Stillen, Top Speed are some options that will. If you want an intake, go long tube like Takeda or Stillen. Admin Tuning will get you the top performance numbers. Short rams will get you sound, but without proper heat shielding will heat soak. Best bang for the buck is swapping the bendystraw looking intake tubes to smooth silicone ones and swapping K&N panel filters into the airboxes.
Check that your transmission software is at the latest version. When the 2014 q50 came out, they updated the software and it actually makes a (barely noticeable) difference. (but a difference nonetheless) Slightly faster shifts, less confusion.
Don't get new wheels before you sort out the suspension. The X sedan sits the highest of any v36 car. Coils or springs + front camber arms and rear camber and toe bolts/arms.
Tune is a good idea once you get some breather mods done. Just stock, a tune wont do too much except maybe lean out the air fuel ratio a bit since our sedans run a tiny bit rich. There is virtually no differences between uprev and ecutek. You can check out the Admin Tuning youtube channel where they test both software and the differences are negligible.
Overall, focus on handling mods. The power is there, but putting it down can use work. You can drop 5k in bolt-ons and gain like 20-30 horsepower, but half that money in suspension and tires and the car will be a completely different beast.
Other notes: (depending on the km and year of the car)
- If its 2010 or prior, timing chain cover gasket can be a huge pain in the ***
- over 100k, might need to check and replace your spark plugs
- clean throttle bodies and do an idle relearn
- 7AT cars benefit from grounding kits. Can just make your own. You'll notice more responsive shifts, less input lag in the throttle pedal, better sound quality from your speakers, and healthier battery.
- Older models had those maintenance required batteries that can be a pain in the ***, so I would switch out to an AGM battery or just spend high and get an optima yellowtop. Not necessary, but nice to have, especially in cold climate.
- Check transfer case. Its rare, but sometimes the seals do start to leak.
- Check rear differential bushing. its a liquid filled bushing, and it does have a tendency to burst.
- Cabin Air Filter. Good idea to swap this out. Have to drop the glovebox, and while you're at it, read next point.
- AWD Bypass. While the glovebox is out, you have access to a wire you can cut and add a switch to. Basically disables your awd system so you can enjoy rwd fun or even run staggered wheels in the summer. Just make sure to only use this switch when the car is turned off. You can find how to on this site or on youtube.
Last edited by hexotic; 04-25-2018 at 12:14 PM.
#10
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
Welcome!
I have a 2014 Q60x (same as the G37x) and what has already been posted is good advice.
On a side note, I noticed that you have your location as S.C., if your near the SC/NC boarder, there are some NC folks that are doing a meet the coming weekend. I know it's short notice, but go to this thread for more info: https://www.myg37.com/forums/southea...on-is-tbd.html
I have a 2014 Q60x (same as the G37x) and what has already been posted is good advice.
On a side note, I noticed that you have your location as S.C., if your near the SC/NC boarder, there are some NC folks that are doing a meet the coming weekend. I know it's short notice, but go to this thread for more info: https://www.myg37.com/forums/southea...on-is-tbd.html
#12
DIY Cheapskate/Mod
Skip to 2:10 for a side by side.
The following users liked this post:
GClayt (04-25-2018)
#13
The car rolls A LOT. The AWD car rolls even more because we have very skinny sway bars. Its an Anti Sway Bar, or Anti Roll Bar, so calling them Sway Bars is technically incorrect. Easiest way to show the difference is this video (note that that is a RWD G, so it has less roll than our AWD cars do, but its closer to your setup in the S):
Skip to 2:10 for a side by side.
https://youtu.be/R_VsPmHc2LY
Skip to 2:10 for a side by side.
https://youtu.be/R_VsPmHc2LY
Interesting, looks like it makes a substantial difference. Might have to look into this over the summer.
Is it normal to do fronts and rears or does one or the other make more of an impact?
#14
DIY Cheapskate/Mod
Generally the front is already not terrible, so as long as you upgrade the rear bar, it will make the biggest difference. One big upside of doing both is that they're adjustable, so you can really fine tune to fit your driving style.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post