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Big 3 Upgrade in my G37

Old 06-05-2010, 08:58 PM
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Haji
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Big 3 Upgrade in my G37

Alright, so I was wondering what you guys think about a Big three upgrade on this car to increase the current flow to my current system. I was going to do it in 1/0 gauge wire. For those of you who don't know, big 3 is an upgrade of
Battery negative to chassis
Battery Positive to Alternator (300A fused)
Engine Block to Ground.

Please chime in electrical gurus, I don't want to screw anything up in the car, I just want to improve electrical flow.
Old 06-05-2010, 09:31 PM
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RedG37SNC
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Originally Posted by Haji
Alright, so I was wondering what you guys think about a Big three upgrade on this car to increase the current flow to my current system. I was going to do it in 1/0 gauge wire. For those of you who don't know, big 3 is an upgrade of
Battery negative to chassis
Battery Positive to Alternator (300A fused)
Engine Block to Ground.

Please chime in electrical gurus, I don't want to screw anything up in the car, I just want to improve electrical flow.
Don't do battery negative to chassis unless you want to run the alt full time, overcharge your battery and lower life and take the mileage hit, see: https://www.myg37.com/forums/2917296-post5.html

Last edited by RedG37SNC; 06-06-2010 at 01:14 PM.
Old 06-05-2010, 10:32 PM
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Haji
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How many miles would be talking?
My Alt probably will run hard anyways due to the 2500 watt amp i'll be putting in.
Old 06-06-2010, 12:32 AM
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g37mobbin
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Originally Posted by Haji
How many miles would be talking?
My Alt probably will run hard anyways due to the 2500 watt amp i'll be putting in.
use Stinger Electronics | Welcome

use the battery stringer that i use on my DD i have a 2000 watt kicker amp + 400w 4 channel amp running to it...it's a 300 watt that is used before any of the power is used from the battery. my Question to you is what are you worried about the most?
Old 06-06-2010, 02:54 AM
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RedG37SNC
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Oh would that be cool if power consumption and MPG effect were actually reported. You have to figure they took the time to design it, Nissan apparently beleived it was worth it.

One other possible consideration since this isn't clearly documented is that while the lack of a PWM signal results in normal generation is there a higher setting possible that would be activated with higher current draw?
Old 06-06-2010, 03:09 AM
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Redline37
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Originally Posted by RedG37SNC
Don't do battery negative to chassis unless you want to run the alt full time and take the mileage hit, see: https://www.myg37.com/forums/2917296-post5.html
So, I read what you said, but know very little about the whole electric grounding system. I got lost where you say "By performing the power generation voltage variable control, the engine load due to the power generation of the alternator is reduced and fuel consumption is decreased." So does that mean that it is better to not run the negative to chassis ground? I have already had my grounding kit installed, so is there any benefit to disconnect that one grounding wire?
Old 06-06-2010, 03:34 AM
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RedG37SNC
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Originally Posted by Redline37
So, I read what you said, but know very little about the whole electric grounding system. I got lost where you say "By performing the power generation voltage variable control, the engine load due to the power generation of the alternator is reduced and fuel consumption is decreased." So does that mean that it is better to not run the negative to chassis ground? I have already had my grounding kit installed, so is there any benefit to disconnect that one grounding wire?
Those were quotes from the service manual. With the battery negative connected to chassis you're shorting the Battery Current Sensor and defeating the power generation voltage variable control system. The documented benefit is that it can help improve mileage, the other I'm suggesting as a possibility is that it could also better maintain a battery under heavy load.

EDIT: One other benefit is it prevents overcharging which can also lead to lowering battery life.

Last edited by RedG37SNC; 06-06-2010 at 10:35 AM.
Old 06-06-2010, 03:49 AM
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mw09g37
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hmmm if this is the case why does every grounding system (stillen included) ground to the battery if the system nissan built doesn't like it?
Old 06-06-2010, 04:10 AM
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That's definitely an interesting find. So in theory, it would be better to connect a thicker gauge wire from the battery to the voltage sensor and another wire from the other end of the voltage sensor to the chassis.
Old 06-06-2010, 04:15 AM
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Modme
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Originally Posted by mw09g37
hmmm if this is the case why does every grounding system (stillen included) ground to the battery if the system nissan built doesn't like it?
Most likely because they dont even know about this feature. Most of the aftermarket products are carried over from previous generation cars. They assume that since it was beneficial in other cars, it must be good for our cars too.
Old 06-06-2010, 04:24 AM
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RedG37SNC
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Originally Posted by mw09g37
hmmm if this is the case why does every grounding system (stillen included) ground to the battery if the system nissan built doesn't like it?
One of two possibilities.. they either weren't aware of the system and grounding kit design consist of measuring wire lengths to key areas, or they felt the benefits of improved grounding out weighed the benefits of the PGVVC system. I kind suscribe to the first suggestion since bypassing this is not a good idea. Battery management systems aren't unique to Nissan, most if not all cars have them these days.

Which one is right, we'll I still have a 12 gauge wire from Neg to BCS to Chassis, and I have Nissans system in tact so I'm going with that and will just be sure to keep my little fella's contacts clean. The rest of the GK is fine and glad to have it.

Last edited by RedG37SNC; 06-06-2010 at 04:53 AM.
Old 06-06-2010, 10:40 AM
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Haji
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Originally Posted by g37mobbin
use Stinger Electronics | Welcome

use the battery stringer that i use on my DD i have a 2000 watt kicker amp + 400w 4 channel amp running to it...it's a 300 watt that is used before any of the power is used from the battery. my Question to you is what are you worried about the most?
I'm worried about voltage drop when the bass hits. The sundown amp I'm looking to get takes in 250A of current so I need to bolster my electrical.
But I'm really interested about the lack of increased ground from the battery to the chassis. Everyone usually upgrades this to increase current flow otther wise you are in essence running everything through 1 measly piece of 8-12 guage? I use that stuff for speaker wire.......
Old 11-08-2011, 10:16 PM
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Tennessee
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Originally Posted by Haji
I'm worried about voltage drop when the bass hits. The sundown amp I'm looking to get takes in 250A of current so I need to bolster my electrical.
But I'm really interested about the lack of increased ground from the battery to the chassis. Everyone usually upgrades this to increase current flow otther wise you are in essence running everything through 1 measly piece of 8-12 guage? I use that stuff for speaker wire.......
Sorry to bump an old thread, but I am in the very same boat as you. I'm about to drop 2 amps in my 08 G35 that will be about 2700w between the 2. I've always upgraded all my grounds to 1/0 in all my rides. I was going to upgrade my starter battery to a stinger and run another in the back. Has anyone had any issues with the alt not charging your bank of batts?
Old 04-05-2016, 11:52 PM
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scarguy055
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Originally Posted by RedG37SNC
Which one is right, we'll I still have a 12 gauge wire from Neg to BCS to Chassis, and I have Nissans system in tact so I'm going with that and will just be sure to keep my little fella's contacts clean. The rest of the GK is fine and glad to have it.
So, you did the grounding kit minus the wire from the battery negative terminal to ground?

Did you notice any improvement in audio or anything at all or was it just for peace of mind or aesthetics?
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