Big 3 Upgrade in my G37
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Big 3 Upgrade in my G37
Alright, so I was wondering what you guys think about a Big three upgrade on this car to increase the current flow to my current system. I was going to do it in 1/0 gauge wire. For those of you who don't know, big 3 is an upgrade of
Battery negative to chassis
Battery Positive to Alternator (300A fused)
Engine Block to Ground.
Please chime in electrical gurus, I don't want to screw anything up in the car, I just want to improve electrical flow.
Battery negative to chassis
Battery Positive to Alternator (300A fused)
Engine Block to Ground.
Please chime in electrical gurus, I don't want to screw anything up in the car, I just want to improve electrical flow.
#2
Registered User
Alright, so I was wondering what you guys think about a Big three upgrade on this car to increase the current flow to my current system. I was going to do it in 1/0 gauge wire. For those of you who don't know, big 3 is an upgrade of
Battery negative to chassis
Battery Positive to Alternator (300A fused)
Engine Block to Ground.
Please chime in electrical gurus, I don't want to screw anything up in the car, I just want to improve electrical flow.
Battery negative to chassis
Battery Positive to Alternator (300A fused)
Engine Block to Ground.
Please chime in electrical gurus, I don't want to screw anything up in the car, I just want to improve electrical flow.
Last edited by RedG37SNC; 06-06-2010 at 01:14 PM.
#4
Registered User
use the battery stringer that i use on my DD i have a 2000 watt kicker amp + 400w 4 channel amp running to it...it's a 300 watt that is used before any of the power is used from the battery. my Question to you is what are you worried about the most?
#5
Registered User
Oh would that be cool if power consumption and MPG effect were actually reported. You have to figure they took the time to design it, Nissan apparently beleived it was worth it.
One other possible consideration since this isn't clearly documented is that while the lack of a PWM signal results in normal generation is there a higher setting possible that would be activated with higher current draw?
One other possible consideration since this isn't clearly documented is that while the lack of a PWM signal results in normal generation is there a higher setting possible that would be activated with higher current draw?
#6
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
Don't do battery negative to chassis unless you want to run the alt full time and take the mileage hit, see: https://www.myg37.com/forums/2917296-post5.html
#7
Registered User
So, I read what you said, but know very little about the whole electric grounding system. I got lost where you say "By performing the power generation voltage variable control, the engine load due to the power generation of the alternator is reduced and fuel consumption is decreased." So does that mean that it is better to not run the negative to chassis ground? I have already had my grounding kit installed, so is there any benefit to disconnect that one grounding wire?
EDIT: One other benefit is it prevents overcharging which can also lead to lowering battery life.
Last edited by RedG37SNC; 06-06-2010 at 10:35 AM.
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#11
Registered User
Which one is right, we'll I still have a 12 gauge wire from Neg to BCS to Chassis, and I have Nissans system in tact so I'm going with that and will just be sure to keep my little fella's contacts clean. The rest of the GK is fine and glad to have it.
Last edited by RedG37SNC; 06-06-2010 at 04:53 AM.
#12
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Thread Starter
use Stinger Electronics | Welcome
use the battery stringer that i use on my DD i have a 2000 watt kicker amp + 400w 4 channel amp running to it...it's a 300 watt that is used before any of the power is used from the battery. my Question to you is what are you worried about the most?
use the battery stringer that i use on my DD i have a 2000 watt kicker amp + 400w 4 channel amp running to it...it's a 300 watt that is used before any of the power is used from the battery. my Question to you is what are you worried about the most?
But I'm really interested about the lack of increased ground from the battery to the chassis. Everyone usually upgrades this to increase current flow otther wise you are in essence running everything through 1 measly piece of 8-12 guage? I use that stuff for speaker wire.......
#13
I'm worried about voltage drop when the bass hits. The sundown amp I'm looking to get takes in 250A of current so I need to bolster my electrical.
But I'm really interested about the lack of increased ground from the battery to the chassis. Everyone usually upgrades this to increase current flow otther wise you are in essence running everything through 1 measly piece of 8-12 guage? I use that stuff for speaker wire.......
But I'm really interested about the lack of increased ground from the battery to the chassis. Everyone usually upgrades this to increase current flow otther wise you are in essence running everything through 1 measly piece of 8-12 guage? I use that stuff for speaker wire.......
#14
Did you notice any improvement in audio or anything at all or was it just for peace of mind or aesthetics?
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