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Hydrauling Pump/Line replacement
I have a 2010 G37 convertible. I had two hydraulic lines with leaks. Quoted $9800 from the dealer and that's not happening so i started looking into my options. I replaced the lines and put everything back together, but the top still wont open. The windows open, the parcel shelf goes down. Then the pump runs for 20 or so seconds and it stops. Same as it did when it leaked. My assumption is that i either have a bad seal on one or many of the lines at the pump or to much air in the lines for the system to operate. Since the manuals are no longer available thanks to Nissan's legal team I was wondering if anyone could share some procedures or tips.
Also does anyone know what the brass hex bolt on top of the pump does? All i can tell you is if you turn it to hard you will ruin your pump. :) that lesson cost me $500 and i'm hoping to reduce the cost of my education. Thanks, Patrick |
Ouch. Hopefully you'll get it figured out.
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Originally Posted by pmagee317
(Post 4198501)
I have a 2010 G37 convertible. I had two hydraulic lines with leaks. Quoted $9800 from the dealer and that's not happening so i started looking to my options. I replaced the lines and put everything back together, but the top still wont open. The windows open, the parcel shelf goes down. Then the pump runs for 20 or so seconds and it stops. Same as it did when it leaked. My assumption is that i either have a bad seal on one or many of the lines at the pump or to much air in the lines for the system to operate. Since the manuals are no longer available thanks to Nissan's legal team I was wondering if anyone could share some procedures or tips.
Also does anyone know what the brass hex bolt on top of the pump does? All i can tell you is if you turn it to hard you will ruin your pump. :) that lesson cost me $500 and i'm hoping to reduce the cost of my education. Thanks, Patrick https://www.ebay.com/itm/INFINITI-2009-2013-G37-CONVERTIBLE-TOP-PUMP-MOTOR-WITH-LIFTERS-97091-JJ50A/162528134095?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2060353.m1438.l2649 |
Thanks, I saw that. I have already replaced all of the defective parts so I'm not looking to buy them again. :)
~P@ My part sources for this project so far: http://www.cabriolethydraulics.com/ replacement hoses approx $125/hose https://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/ re manufactured pump: $820 (includes pump, $300 core deposit, shipping) |
Update: turns out I was just suffering from rectal-cranial inversion. I had the solenoid wires on the top of the pump on backwards. Should have taken more pics during the disassembly. It will still need to go to the dealer for a re-learn, but with that I'm out $1750 much better then the $9,800 I was quoted to fix it. :) |
Well done, sir!
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Great job! That is encouraging for those of use who can't dole over $10k to repair...and don't have an extended warranty that covers the top. Thanks for sharing!
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Thanks :D
I "never" buy warranties because I prefer to do my own repairs. I did with this car because I figured if anything went wrong with the top I'd be screwed. Well wouldn't you know it the warranty doesn't cover "fluid leaks" so it didn't help after all. Oh, well live and learn.. ~P@ |
I get the DIY thing. I enjoy turning a wrench now and then myself. I pulled and replaced the entire suspension on our '93 Miata as well replaced the radiator. THAT car is very simple to work on - being 25 years old and all. As for my G, other than the air filters and cabin filter ( which was a pain to replace compared to my M35) along with the brake pads and rotors, there aren't many things I'm capable of wrenching on my own - especially anything related to the top. For that reason, a warranty made sense for me.
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