Tucsontripleb

Hello all,

I just bought a 2009 G37 Vert, base model, red, 19" rims with only 57K miles.

PO had just lowered it with Eibach springs. I just measured the camber with one of those simple magnetic gauges (on the brake disk) and I get -3.5 Front, and -4.5 Rear.

The -4.5 in the rear really surprised me! The stock cam bolts are adjusted to the maximum positive setting. Has anyone else gotten that much negative camber on the rears with just Eibach springs??

I have ordered the SPC front A-arms which should take care of the front camber fine.

I have the SPC cam bolts, but they are not yet installed. My understanding from reading threads on this forum is that I will only get about 1 additional negative degree adjustment from the SPC cam bolts (so should bring me to -3.5 on the rear). I am targeting -0.5 to -1.0. for the rears

I have read both of these great threads:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-con...r-my-vert.html
https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-con...7-convert.html

I have also cross referenced the parts diagrams between the Coups and Verts. The key difference as it pertains to using the SPC (or other) adjustable camber bars, is that the Verts rear shocks were relocated much lower to accommodate room for the retracted hard top. The lower shock mount is integrated into the lower camber bar.

In one of the treads linked to above, there was a person that had a shop weld a shock mount onto the side of the Eibach version of the lower camber bar. This seems to be the answer, however I didn't like that they turned the mount 90degs. This would not allow the shock to rotate on the bolt as the suspension compressed and retracted. It seems that a mount on top of the bar with the stock alignment would solve this.

I called SPC to see if they had designed a solution, but they haven't. I think this is a large untapped market and an easy solution. Someone should jump on this (if they haven't already).

This brings me to my two questions:

1. Is -4.5 on the rear excessive for just Eibach springs?
   1. If so what else could cause this?
   2. If this IS common, how do the rest of you Vert guys dial this back to a reasonable setting?
   3. What rear camber setting are most of you guys running (to maximize tire wear)
2. If I could work with SPC to design a solution for our Verts, would there be interest in a group buy?

Thanks!

Tucsontripleb

Just figured out how to post pics...

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

First, welcome to the site.

Second, toe is the tire killer.

Third, G convertible market is quite small, so good luck getting a group buy of anything going.

-4.5 degrees is pretty severe camber if you're not posing or racing. I don't believe the suspension camber curve will ever allow the tires to be flat on the ground, which means your traction is less than it should be.

Tucsontripleb

Thanks for your reply slartbartfast! I knew there weren't many convertibles that i see on the roads. Does anyone know the percentage of convertibles sold to other G's?

Also, I agree -4.5 is WAY more than I want on the car. I was surprised that just a spring change to a common Eibach spring would knock it out so far. I would have expected maybe -2.5 or -3.0. Is this normal??

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Nice vert! That is high camber for a milder spring drop, I'd take it to an alignment shop and see what their readings are. Not sure what cereal 2k was able to get his camber set at w/ just the rear camber & toe bolt kit but IIRC it was much closer to spec w/ toe correct. Also are the Eibach springs vert specific? If not, the drop probably is quite a bit deeper than a coupe install which would result in higher camber, doubt it would be in the mid 4s though???

Tucsontripleb

Thanks blnewt! and thanks for the reply. First, where in NM are you?? I went to High School in Alamogordo and undergrad at NMSU....(a few decades ago).

You got me thinking. I don't know if the PO installed Vert specific springs, but I doubt it. Thinking about this and the added weight on the rear of the Vert, I went and did some measuring. Here is what I got.

Measuring from ground, through the center of the hub, to the lowest edge of the fender:
RF = 26 3/4"
LF = 26 3/4"
RR = 26"
LR = 26 1/4"

My baby is sagging in the rear. : (

I should be able to adjust this by inserting a flat urethane disk of about 1/2 to 3/4" thickness under the lower rear spring isolator to even this out. That should help with the camber issue as well, I just don't know how much.

Don't know if Eibach makes Vert specific springs. I will give them a call this week and check as that would be the best answer. It would keep the full range of the static spring compression verses the apparent over compression of the ones on it currently.

Thanks again!

Tucsontripleb

Just watched this YouTube video of Eibach spring install on a coupe that measured the same way I did.

Before (stock)
ALL were 28"

After install of Eibach springs
Fronts = 26 1/2" (Just like mine)
Rear = 26" (Just like mine) (not sure why one side on rear is 1/4" higher on mine)

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Think you're off by 10"
I'm over here in the land of green aliens Roswell btw

Tucsontripleb

HA!!

I have the rare lifted off-road option!

Yes subtract 10 from each of the numbers. Should be 20s not 30s.

I know Roswell well. Still pass through on way from Tucson to Lubbock, TX multiple times a year to see family. I miss NM Mexican food!! Hatch Chilies....

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Next time on your way to Lubbock shoot me a PM, meet up for a brew or two

Tucsontripleb

Will do!

kiseliok

iTrader: (11)

To echo what others said:
- Take it to the alignment shop and see what they measure
- If it's indeed -4.5, you should definitely try to get it closer to spec
- Instead of inserting random stuff into your springs, why not just replace the rear springs altogether? And you can make sure those are vert specific. This will improve your height and likely ride quality.
- I have my rear camber around -2 using the extra set of bolts

And yes, there are very few modified verts out there. Makes it difficult to find the right parts, but your 'unique' status is now through the roof.

Tucsontripleb

Unique dial pegged! Thanks for the reply kiseliok.

I checked with Eibach and they do not make a Vert specific spring. I realize there are other options for springs and coilovers, but I am not willing/able to fork out the $$ for those at this point.

The polyurethane disks I was talking about just mimic the shape of the bottom of the lower spring isolator and will raise it up in the bucket 1/2". This will raise the rear of the car to match the front height and retain the exact same function and travel of the springs. Did this before on a Z car I raced. and worked fine.

I have the SPC front a-arms and the SPC cam bolts for rear camber and toe. I will install everything this weekend. I am trying to find a good alignment shop here in town with experience with lowered cars, ideally G's. No luck as yet.

I don't have much hope that the cam bolts will be able to bring me back in spec, so I am considering the welded shock mount to the SPC coupe camber bars, should the bolts not get me back to spec.

Again, thanks to everyone for their help and suggestions. I will post after the install and alignment and let everyone know where it ended up.

Tucsontripleb

This weekend I....

1. Installed SPC front camber adjustable upper A-Arms
2. Installed SPC cam bolts for rear Toe
3. Tried to slice my nose off while working on the car and had to stop there.
4. I DIDN"T get to install the cam bolts for the rear camber do to #3

I contacted the alignment shop, explained what needed to be done to install the rear camber cam bolts and they said they could do that. When I went to pick up the car, the technician that did the alignment told me first, "the aftermarket cam bolts wouldn't have made any difference since I already had cam bolts installed from the factory." I said the after market cam bolts are offset more than stock and that is what allows for more camber adjustment, and why you have to elongate the bolt slots. He said, "the bolt slots were already all the way out to the cam washer stop tabs and he couldn't have elongated them any more." I asked him it looked like someone had already modified the slots and he said, "no, they look factory."

This is exactly why I do not trust ANYONE to work on my vehicles!! Even after I very clearly and in detail, described to him what I needed done when I dropped off the car and reiterated I would pay for the extra work over and above the alignment, this is what I get.

In the end, everything came into alignment well other than the rear camber which is still about -0.8 more than the minimum I would like. I am tempted to just install the SPC cam bolts myself this weekend. Set them to full positive setting and take the car back next week and have them measure...."WHAT?? the camber is less than it was before?? Really??" Who would have thought...?" GRRRRRR....

Another interesting learning was the magnetic camber measurement tool I bought is about -2.0 degrees off. I did zero it against a measured and confirmed vertical 0.0 degrees baseline. The tool was reading LF -2.0 RF -3.0 LR -5.0 RR -4.5. Compare those readings to the "Before" readings below.

Good news is everything is set right except the rear camber. I will probably drive it like this for a while and see how it does, particularly rear tire wear.

Oh, one more thing. I did fab up the polyurathain spacers for under my rear springs which PERFECTLY leveled the car. All 4 corners are now sitting at 26 3/4" (before was F 26 3/4", R 26"). Just that little bit of adjustment and I no longer drag on the speed bumps going in and around work!

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

That's more like it, and sorry about the shop not comprehending and your nose getting in harms way