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Help! First Vert Problems After Owning Three of Them! 14 IPL-No Top Power
Hello everyone-I've searched and cannot find an EXACT replica of my exact issue and before I start DIY and trying my own recipe I thought I'd ask you all. My top was working fine last time I dropped it, about 3-4 weeks ago. 2014 with 55k miles. It's my third G37/Q60 vert. Never had a problem actually, thank God. So, the parcel shelf is in place, everything seems to be fine, in park, hit the top button and nothing. Nothing either way. No response from the windows, the beep, the dash-nothing at all. Watched the YouTube video on disconnecting the negative terminal (wish this fixed everything right?) for our cars and I don't want to do that if I don't have to, with fears that I will have to take it to the dealer for a re-learn anyway even after I do it. Top is in the up position and secure, thank God as well. Anyone have some ideas or help, or should I start trying the battery? FYI the battery is non-OEM, Duracell and has 2018 on it, so I know it's on borrowed time! Thanks in advance.
Not sure how much help this will be, but after checking through the owners manual, when the switch is not responsive the issue is usually either low battery voltage or the trunk separator/parcel shelf.
***Does everything else work as intended? Specifically, HVAC, radio volume, windows (auto up/down) and Voice Recognition?
First, a 4 year-old battery- in a 'Vert- is definitely on borrowed time. It may be wise to have the battery checked/ replaced irrespective of the non-responsive roof. I don't know how good "Duracell" is for car batteries but I am not a fan of them to begin with...
As long as the roof is fully up/ locked, you should have no issues removing the battery. At the most, you would have to initialize the hard top by cycling the operation (as stated in manual).
I don't want to get into checking all of the fuses/ microswitches, etc. until the basics are ruled out. I would double check that everything in the trunk is as it should be. Then, with the engine running, try opening the roof. Depending on those results you can go from there.
DO NOT try opening the roof using the key fob/ door switch!
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; 03-04-2022 at 11:58 AM.
Intake it the separator icon does not show up. That would make me take the switch out and ensure all the wires are connected. Any time I push the top button something comes up on the display so I doubt battery issue is the problem. I'm leaning toward a fuse or switch connection.
To follow up on n559br's suggestion to check fuses... I only have a copy of the 2010 'Vert FSM and it shows that the control module for the roof receives power from a 30amp fusible link located on the positive battery post:
Again, this is from the 2010 book. I can't access the 2014 but I doubt there would be much difference. At least it is a start...
Thanks for your responses-here's what I checked today. 30a fusible link is good. I didn't have an extra to replace but I could try that in case my eyes deceive me, but the indicator shows the solid line/link together, not broken so I don't think that's it. I did replace my shift **** and boot three months ago, operated the top numerous times since then with no issues, but I certainly could get in there again and make sure the plug to the switch didn't get undone somehow magically? Perhaps I didn't have it clicked all the way and going over a bump or just hitting the button perhaps caused it to "pop" out? I'm really reaching here!
Battery (sorry we have three cars, and I confused the dates from another battery we replaced on our QX80) is actually 4/20 sticker date and 10/20 on the battery. Every since thing works fine in the car, including nav, windows, etc. I'll check the other functions and put my battery charger on the battery too. Do you all think a Duracell battery with the dates 4/20 and 10/20 install would be dead already? I haven't tried voice recognition but I will.
Tried turning off the car, hitting the button again. Unfastened the divider in the trunk and re-clicked both sides firmly and did it 3x more just for good measure. As I mentioned I've had three of these cars and very familiar with the basic operation of the top, things to watch out for, etc etc. I never put anything in the trunk for this reason unless I have the top up-just in case. I do have an emergency tool kit in the sub-compartment but should be a non-factor. Let me check to make sure that isn't protruding up at all making the divider base stick up and not align right. Shouldn't matter though-the clicks in the tray are all you need for the sensors to activate.
You all are right-it's super weird no beeps, nothing on the dash. Zilch. In other car related weird news, I took my wife's 2015 Lexus RC-F out for a drive tonight and opened the moonroof and it's stuck in the up position! WTH? Really? Two fluke strange incidents in two days. Maybe I need to get a lottery ticket???? You all are definitely making me thing and these are all great suggestions. Unfortunately I'm going out of town and don't have time to get a new battery but I might just for the heck of it to see if that works. I prefer OEM or Optima batteries for verts anyway-this car had a new one in it when I bought it so I just kept it in.
Last edited by candytheiplvert; 03-04-2022 at 10:37 PM.
I believe you and n559br hit the nail on the head with the switch being suspect. Especially since you admit to having done work with the center console.
Here is a simple test: does the OPEN/CLOSE switch light up at night (w/ the headlights ON)? While I would still physically check the harness connector just to be sure it is secure, if the switch does not light up then you've potentially narrowed down the grenlim. Also, any chance something was spilled?
Others in the know may chime in on the durability/ quality of Duracell automotive batteries. I know battery tech has advanced significantly over the decades, but I lost faith in their products long ago. I prefer Optima overall.
Hmmm the switch lights up? I don't think any of my three I've owned have? If they did I never noticed. I know the heated/cooled seats switch does. Either way, it's easy to get in there and check the connection. I have used the top 2-3 times since the upgraded the shift **** and boot and triple checked the connectors (all the others work) before I snapped it back down, but worth a check for sure! Thanks!
All of the interior switches (except the ADP/door "SET 2 1") should illuminate at night. Never hurts to check the connector and for any potentially pinched wires. Thankfully, it is easy enough to get in the console and check things out.
In this case a volt meter is your friend. Just visually inspecting connections won't cut it. I also have boats and the number of electrical gremlins in them makes me carry a meter on board. But my first inclination is to check voltage at the rocker switch for the top.
Okay, so then I'd be heading to where those wires lead, which I suspect is the top computer and see if power is getting there. The best tool as usual would be consult3 which is what I use for all top diagnostics. With it you could see what state the computer thinks the top is in.
Update: The battery disconnect worked!!!! I knew it about 30 seconds after I tightened the nut on the negative terminal, I heard that little beep from Candy's tail saying, "I'm alive, I'm alive". Got in the car, started it up, dropped the top...it stopped right after the window sequence then I hit it again and it did a complete cycle and worked! I did it 3x for good measure and left it down for my trophy prize today, lol. Maybe that's Candy's way of telling me I didn't let her go topless enough? IDK. All I DO know is thank God and thanks for this forum! So strange lesson learned here: Battery measured out at 13-14, used the top about 3-4 weeks ago. We did have some freezes here in Houston last week but my garage is super warm, however my TPMS sensors did go off and I filled up my tires and they went off, but I did not operate the top during the sub freezing temps. Strange occurrence for sure, and I will definitely be watching the Duracell battery closely and checking charging on that, but I can't figure out why she'd just stop working? Strange but so glad this worked! Thanks y'all! Now my wife's car: 2015 RC-F with a sunroof stuck open! Saturday fun!
03-03-2022, 08:06 PM
