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		<title>MyG37</title>
		<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[The world's largest INFINITI G37 community.]]></description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Wed, 20 May 2026 23:08:48 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<url>https://www.myg37.com/forums/blueevolution/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>MyG37</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>For Sale EcuTek ECU Connect Programming Kit w/ Bluetooth - Multiple Vehicle Applications</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/private-classifieds/305720-ecutek-ecu-connect-programming-kit-w-bluetooth-multiple-vehicle-applications-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 17 May 2026 18:47:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[*$125 OR BEST OFFER * 
 
Sold my car and now I am selling some of the few remaining parts I have left. I never bought the license. Here's the products description:  
---Quote--- 
EcuTek Programming...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><b>$125 OR BEST OFFER </b><br />
<br />
Sold my car and now I am selling some of the few remaining parts I have left. I never bought the license. Here's the products description: <h3><div style="margin:1rem; margin-top:0.3rem;">
	<div><label>Quote:</label></div>
	<div style="padding:6px">
		<hr />
		
			EcuTek Programming Kit with ECU Connect
		
		<hr />
	</div>
</div></h3><div style="margin:1rem; margin-top:0.3rem;">
	<div><label>Quote:</label></div>
	<div style="padding:6px">
		<hr />
		
			The EcuTek Programming Kit provides a powerful combination of diagnostics, data-logging, and remote tuning capabilities. Designed for use with EcuTek’s ECU Connect App, this latest Bluetooth-enabled kit allows vehicle owners to communicate seamlessly with EcuTek Master Tuners for professional tuning support.<br />
<br />
Master Tuners can supply tailored ROM files, which customers program directly into their vehicles using the kit. If adjustments are needed, customers can record data logs and send them back to their tuner for analysis and refinement.<br />
<br />
<b>Important Note:</b> While Bluetooth is supported for diagnostics and data-logging, vehicle programming must be performed via the included USB cable.
		
		<hr />
	</div>
</div>
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]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/private-classifieds-329/">Private Classifieds</category>
			<dc:creator>Runs On Water</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/private-classifieds/305720-ecutek-ecu-connect-programming-kit-w-bluetooth-multiple-vehicle-applications.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Stillen Gen 2 works on all model year G37/EX37?</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction/305719-stillen-gen-2-works-on-all-model-year-g37-ex37-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 17 May 2026 04:45:57 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm looking to get a Stillen intake for my EX37...I noticed it lists the the 2007 to 2013 G35/G37, and 2008-2009 EX35 "& More" 
 
Not sure why they did not include the 2010-2012 EX35 or 2013...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm looking to get a Stillen intake for my EX37...I noticed it lists the the 2007 to 2013 G35/G37, and 2008-2009 EX35 &quot;&amp; More&quot;<br />
<br />
Not sure why they did not include the 2010-2012 EX35 or 2013 EX37...as my understanding is they are all the identical engine bay layout...therefor there is no reason I can see why they would not work on my 2013 EX37?<br />
<br />
<a href="https://stillen.com/products/2007-2009-infiniti-g35-g37-q40-q60-2008-2009-infiniti-ex35-gen-2-air-intake-kit-v36-oiled-filter-kit" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer nofollow external">Stillen Intake</a><br />
<br />
Also...they clearly list it does not need a tune after the intake...and I've seen some that state it DOES need a tune after their brand of intake.  What makes the Stillen so different that it would not need a tune?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-309/"><![CDATA[Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>unclejemima</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction/305719-stillen-gen-2-works-on-all-model-year-g37-ex37.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Help 6mt Sedan Reverse Lights Inoperative</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-interior-exterior-lighting/305718-6mt-sedan-reverse-lights-inoperative-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 16 May 2026 10:22:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey I have a 2010 g37s 6mt and I’ve been trying to trouble shoot my faulty reverse lights. On first thought it may seem the reverse switch could be bad, but the car knows it’s in reverse because my...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey I have a 2010 g37s 6mt and I’ve been trying to trouble shoot my faulty reverse lights. On first thought it may seem the reverse switch could be bad, but the car knows it’s in reverse because my camera still turns on. I checked for any possible fuses that could be blown which seemed like they were all intact. I replaced the bulbs with new ones and sent power to it using a power probe from the lightbulb housing and verified that the lights turn on. So I suspect there’s a break in the wire somewhere. This is where I need help. I want to know which pins to check on the harness that goes into the back of the trunk on the left side, and where that harness goes throughout the body to see if I can see any breaks in the wire visually. <!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-interior-exterior-lighting-314/">Body Interior Exterior Lighting</category>
			<dc:creator>SWASHPLATE</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/body-interior-exterior-lighting/305718-6mt-sedan-reverse-lights-inoperative.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>For Sale SoHo Supercharger Kit G37</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/private-classifieds/305717-soho-supercharger-kit-g37-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 15 May 2026 15:51:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*Category:* Engine - Power Adders 
*Price:* $7000 
*Private or Vendor Listing:* Private Listing 
*Part fits:* 2010+ G37 Coupe 
*Location (State/Prov):* Asheville, NC 
*Item Condition:* NewSOHO...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start --><b>Category:</b><span style="color:#333333"> Engine - Power Adders</span><br />
<b>Price:</b><span style="color:#333333"> $7000</span><br />
<b>Private or Vendor Listing:</b><span style="color:#333333"> Private Listing</span><br />
<b>Part fits:</b><span style="color:#333333"> 2010+ G37 Coupe</span><br />
<b>Location (State/Prov):</b><span style="color:#333333"> Asheville, NC</span><br />
<b>Item Condition:</b><span style="color:#333333"> New</span><h1>SOHO Motorsports G37 V2 A2A LYTE Supercharger Kit (VQ37VHR)</h1><br />
I’m new to this forum.<br />
<br />
To note, it looks current price of kit is $8,499 before tax.<br />

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<br />
<br />
I can provide additional pictures if needed. Open box to inspect parts.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Soho Motorsports Supercharger Kit<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
This kit includes the following:<ul><li>&#65279;&#65279;Vortech SI Supercharger Head Unit w/ 7l<br />

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							 </noscript><br />
b. Pulley</li>
<li>&#65279;&#65279;Supercharger Bracket w/ Necessary</li>
</ul>Pulleys &amp; Tensioners<ul><li>&#65279;&#65279;SOHO Motorsports Intercooler</li>
<li>&#65279;&#65279;SOHO Motorsports Cold Side Piping</li>
<li>&#65279;&#65279;SOHO Motorsports Front Crash Bar</li>
<li>&#65279;&#65279;Necessary Hose Clamps &amp; Couplers</li>
<li>&#65279;&#65279;Turboguard Standard w/ Filter &amp; Recirc. BOV Upgrades Available</li>
<li>&#65279;&#65279;PCV Breather Kit</li>
</ul>Injector Dynamics 1050CC Injectors<br />
Aeromotive 340 Series Stealth In-Tank (E85 compatible) fuel pump<br />
ID injector adapter<br />
Omni 4 bar sensor<br />
<br />
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]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/private-classifieds-329/">Private Classifieds</category>
			<dc:creator>Rpalm</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/private-classifieds/305717-soho-supercharger-kit-g37.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>True Dual (x or h pipe) for AWD model?</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/intake-and-exhaust/305716-true-dual-x-or-h-pipe-for-awd-model-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 14 May 2026 20:04:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm looking for a true dual x or h pipe for the AWD model.  I can find only the single y-pip units for the AWD unit. 
 
My understanding is the Y pipe setup for the RDW and AWD model is different...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I'm looking for a true dual x or h pipe for the AWD model.  I can find only the single y-pip units for the AWD unit.<br />
<br />
My understanding is the Y pipe setup for the RDW and AWD model is different because of transfer case clearance...is this correct?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/intake-and-exhaust-328/">Intake and Exhaust</category>
			<dc:creator>unclejemima</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/intake-and-exhaust/305716-true-dual-x-or-h-pipe-for-awd-model.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>My VQ37HR sounds epic on cold start!  But then gets boring :-)</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction/305715-my-vq37hr-sounds-epic-on-cold-start-but-then-gets-boring-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 14 May 2026 04:09:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>New to me EX37 with the VQ37HR...it sounds epic on cold start, with a nice relatively loud exhaust note!  Then, after about 30 seconds, the rpms stay about the same...but you can hear it quiet right...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->New to me EX37 with the VQ37HR...it sounds epic on cold start, with a nice relatively loud exhaust note!  Then, after about 30 seconds, the rpms stay about the same...but you can hear it quiet right down.  Boring lol.<br />
<br />
Is this an active exhaust or how can the sound change so dramatically when it warms up?<br />
<br />
I'm assuming this is something emissions related (likely to heat up the catalytic converter quicker)...but regardless, it sounds like active exhaust when it quiets right down.  I'd love to keep it in the 'loud' setting :-)<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-309/"><![CDATA[Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction]]></category>
			<dc:creator>unclejemima</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>For Sale Z1 race dual exhaust</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/private-classifieds/305714-z1-race-dual-exhaust-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 12 May 2026 13:09:54 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Z1 race dual exhaust 370z version. Can fit coupes with a 12' extension. 
 
Sedans will need 24" extension and hanger modification. 
 
Image:   
Image:   
Image:]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Z1 race dual exhaust 370z version. Can fit coupes with a 12' extension.<br />
<br />
Sedans will need 24" extension and hanger modification.<br />
<br />

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			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/private-classifieds-329/">Private Classifieds</category>
			<dc:creator>projectpanda13</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/private-classifieds/305714-z1-race-dual-exhaust.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Jolts while idle  (2009 G37X sedan)</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan/305713-jolts-while-idle-2009-g37x-sedan-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 11 May 2026 11:59:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys. Recently I’ve been having issues trying to diagnose what feels like random jolting while sitting at a stop light in drive and also in park. Rpms fluctuate ever so slightly when this...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Hey guys. Recently I’ve been having issues trying to diagnose what feels like random jolting while sitting at a stop light in drive and also in park. Rpms fluctuate ever so slightly when this happens. For context g37 sedan recently got a new engine put In. I believed it was low on transmission fluid before this so I added some and did the whole procedure of letting it get to operating temp and draining any excess hoping that would solve my issue. After doing so I’m still having these issues. I also get the occasional rough shift or stutter when driving. Transmission has about 180k miles. New engine is at about 120k. New engine and transmission mounts were installed when the engine was put in. Also did gallery gaskets. Spark plugs. Water pump. Thermostat. Serpentine belt. What could this be? Has anyone else experienced something similar?<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan-348/">G37 Sedan</category>
			<dc:creator>AV37</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan/305713-jolts-while-idle-2009-g37x-sedan.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Help '10 Sport Caliper Failure?]]></title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-and-suspension/305712-10-sport-caliper-failure-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 09 May 2026 21:28:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Picture 1:  Right rear caliper outboard pad is not notably contacting and wiping the rotor "clean".   Post wash water and general light rust  building up and not getting cleared.  It can be felt on...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Picture 1:  Right rear caliper outboard pad is not notably contacting and wiping the rotor "clean".   Post wash water and general light rust  building up and not getting cleared.  It can be felt on top of the rotor surface with a finger.  Picture 2: is the left rear and operating properly. <br />
<br />
I first bled and it didn't solve the issue.  This included bleeding the opposite side. <br />
<br />
I then rebuilt the caliper and it's still happening.  I again re-bled both sides for good measure. <br />
<br />
It was mentioned in a FB forum I may have pad contamination, so today I swapped outboard pads side to side.  Upon doing so, I noticed the right rear (problem side) slid right out; whereas, the left rear had to be forcefully removed.   The right rear (problem side) inner had to be forcefully removed as well, so it tells me the inner is working just fine.   The outboard side piston is extended from the rebuild fully pushed in position  and touching the pad back but it seems there's a lack of pressure to force it against the rotor.      I haven't drive it yet as it's not at my residence so I haven't tested the contamination theory; however, being the problem side pad was loose compared to the other 2 I pulled, I don't have confidence that's the problem. <br />
<br />
The only thing I haven't done is to unplug the Electronic Brake Actuator; however, I've never done that when doing brake fluid bleeds in the past and never had an issue.   Never seen anyone doing it on forums etc. in the past 10 years of ownership neither. <br />
<br />
Pads and rotors have less than 10k miles on them. <br />
Brake fluid is less than a year old, Castrol SFR. <br />
Brakes lines to the caliper are braided stainless steel and not binding etc., OE right height. <br />
Car has 103k miles on it, no leaks in the system and it's used as a street car only. <br />
<br />

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			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-and-suspension-306/"><![CDATA[Brakes & Suspension]]></category>
			<dc:creator>Tractionless</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-and-suspension/305712-10-sport-caliper-failure.html</guid>
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			<title>AC not working</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/305711-ac-not-working-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 09 May 2026 21:24:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>guys i need help fixing my AC recently it rained and water got into my car and the blower motors stopped working i replaced the fuses, relays, and the blower motor and it still doesn’t work any...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->guys i need help fixing my AC recently it rained and water got into my car and the blower motors stopped working i replaced the fuses, relays, and the blower motor and it still doesn’t work any suggestions? summer is around the corner lol<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe-239/">G37 Coupe</category>
			<dc:creator>Vqqqqq</dc:creator>
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			<title>VQ37 Rookie Oil Change Scare</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/305710-vq37-rookie-oil-change-scare-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 09 May 2026 20:54:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So this sounds funny...but I need help checking my oil. 
 
I'm a rookie VQ37 guy, and purchase a cherry EX37 with less than 10,000miles on it!  I purchased it out of town, around a 1000 mile drive. 
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->So this sounds funny...but I need help checking my oil.<br />
<br />
I'm a rookie VQ37 guy, and purchase a cherry EX37 with less than 10,000miles on it!  I purchased it out of town, around a 1000 mile drive.<br />
<br />
I picked it up and drove it directly to the Infiniti dealer to have a full service before driving it home...engine oil, trans, diff's, transfer case, etc.  As this is a 13 year old car and while it's oil was changed often, there was no record of the other fliuid being changed...wanted to be on the safe side.<br />
<br />
When I got back, I had to get an out of state inspection...I had the inspection done at my local Honda dealer because the out of state inspection is generic and can be done by any dealer.  The noted the 'oil level appeared over filled' and suggested I remove some oil from it (not sure why they didnt?)<br />
<br />
The car passed inspection (obviously lol) and I drove it home and the checked the oil the next morning...to my surprise I saw a dipstick that looks like almost comically overfilled! <br />
<br />

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<br />
I figured there must be something odd going on, so I picked up the manual and it said to run the car till operating temp, then wait 15 minutes for the oil to drain back...then check the oil.<br />
<br />
I did so, and I still get an overfill...but nothing as bonkers as my cold engine check (overnight).<br />

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For me, the cold engine overnight check has always been the best/most reliable for every other car i've owned...let it sit overnight, all the oil falls down into the pan...then check the level on first pull.  On this, it showed the level so high I almost fell over lol.<br />
<br />
Tips and advice for a new VQ37 owner would be appreciated! :-)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications-11/">D.I.Y. Installations/Modifications</category>
			<dc:creator>unclejemima</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/d-i-y-installations-modifications/305710-vq37-rookie-oil-change-scare.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Injen Cold Air Intake Question</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan/305709-injen-cold-air-intake-question-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 08 May 2026 22:36:23 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I just bought injen long tube cold air intakes, open box, never used for dirt cheap, but im in a bit of a dilemma. Upgarage advertised it to fit a G37 but I looked it up and I have the SP1989P which...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->I just bought injen long tube cold air intakes, open box, never used for dirt cheap, but im in a bit of a dilemma. Upgarage advertised it to fit a G37 but I looked it up and I have the SP1989P which is listed as a direct fit for 370, and they have a separate part and part number, SP1997P, for the G37 intake.  My question is will my current one, sp1989p, fit my G37 sedan, and still come with the stuff I need to install it. I included pictures of the two<br />
<br />
Are these intakes even good? Im reading stuff online about hydrolocking and dirt being sucked up.<br />

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			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan-348/">G37 Sedan</category>
			<dc:creator>J37</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sedan/305709-injen-cold-air-intake-question.html</guid>
		</item>
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			<title>Transmission issue</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/305708-transmission-issue-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 07 May 2026 17:49:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[have an 08 g37 journey I've recently noticed as I was driving to work the car starts to shake/ vibrate the seats and steering wheel at 50 mph. And the out of nowhere yesterday I started loosing 5th...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->have an 08 g37 journey I've recently noticed as I was driving to work the car starts to shake/ vibrate the seats and steering wheel at 50 mph. And the out of nowhere yesterday I started loosing 5th gear and I have two codes pop up (p1757 and p0735) what can I do to fix this till I'm able to get a new transmission<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe-239/">G37 Coupe</category>
			<dc:creator>gmoney0789</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/305708-transmission-issue.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Radiator Replacement CSF or TYC</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/305707-radiator-replacement-csf-or-tyc-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 05 May 2026 19:19:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>When I rebuilt my G37x, the transmission cooler tube was wiggled several times and looked stressed. I put JB weld on it just to keep it from getting moved or bumped and it has been fine for 8 years...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->When I rebuilt my G37x, the transmission cooler tube was wiggled several times and looked stressed. I put JB weld on it just to keep it from getting moved or bumped and it has been fine for 8 years now but I have some free time and want to fix some lingering issues on the car (rotten braces and a very small oil leak probably from when I had the timing cover off). I was looking at a new radiator but don't see any reasonably priced OEM style radiators, they are all 100% aluminum. I've had good luck with CSF on my Porsche but I see a lot of threads on this forum about the CSF radiators leaking on their G37 (Im looking at the CSF 3271). These seem to be older threads though, 2017-2020ish. Was this just a bad period or is there another brand I should go with? I see on the vendors site that TYC 13004 is just a little more and has a marking for being more popular. Any advise on which one to go with? I'm open to other brands if they are similarly priced.<br />
<br />
I considered an external cooler for the transmission but then I'd have to run an inline thermostat or risk overcooling in the very cold winters and it just wasn't worth it for me. Also, the radiator is 17 years old at this point and probably not a bad idea to just replace it rather than bypassing it for the transmission.<!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe-239/">G37 Coupe</category>
			<dc:creator>Genhero</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-coupe/305707-radiator-replacement-csf-or-tyc.html</guid>
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			<title>Restoring anniversary edition convertible need top help</title>
			<link>https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-convertible/305706-restoring-anniversary-edition-convertible-need-top-help-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 04 May 2026 02:35:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Good evening fellow forum users. It's been a very long time since I have posted. Honestly I kinda thought forums were dying.  
I purchased a 2010 anniversary edition g37 convertible  a few years ago...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Good evening fellow forum users. It's been a very long time since I have posted. Honestly I kinda thought forums were dying. <br />
I purchased a 2010 anniversary edition g37 convertible  a few years ago that had been in a flood (mistake #1) <br />
Super long story short I have gone through the entire car and got every little thing working (13 different radios later [and yes I matched part numbers]) I had top hydraulics rebuild the top motor too. <br />
<br />
my "last" remaining issue is with the top. I took it to the only infiniti dealer in the state of UT a couple years ago and asked the to figure every issue out with the top. They kept the car for a couple hours and told me that the wiring harness that goes along the top of the trunk needed replaced. After meticulously testing said harness it was determined that the harness was in perfect shape.<br />
after more poking and prodding the guy at top hydraulics was kind enough to respond to an email and told me to check the relays all along the motor. Turned out those were super super corroded!!! No idea how the dealer completely missed those!! (I actually am not impressed at all with the dealer!)<br />
I can work the top manually with a knock off consult I ordered from china and installed on a very old laptop and it all functions exactly as it should when I go through the consult to manually control each part. The top button has been replaced and the roof latch will try to work, but that seems to be an issue as well. I replaced the top latch and both the og latch and new one only work when I manually open or close it most of the way. Other than that it just sounds like it is slipping up there. Gear teeth and all are fine, so im left wondering if there is something along the sides of the roof that has stiffened up because of corrosion (or sitting in the humid east coast for 8 years after it's flood encounter) <br />
is there any "guru on the page that is absurdly knowledgeable with these tops that I can pick their brain about this and my other 2 or 3 issues that I think may be preventing me from having a working top without having to park it and pull a computer out for 20 min? <br />

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Pic of my vert after some light mods (akebono's, volk rims and intakes.) For fun. <!-- google_ad_section_end --></div>

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			<dc:creator>nismoboy84</dc:creator>
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