drizzy315

Guys needs some direction here been dealing with this issue intermittently now but it appears this time the service engine light is steady on and not going away. I cleaned the throttle body and maf sensor with no change, chg filters and reset ecm. Auto zone pulled the code it showed random misfire and pointed at the maf sensor. Everyday at start up there are 2-3 popping/sputter sounds coming from below the car and it goes away and runs normal for most part except high idle i can feel the car pulling when i have my foot on brake petal doesn't run extremely bad but not as good as it used to also it is consuming more gas than before. I have not changed spark plugs or coils yet. guy please help here what you suggest i do next? do not want to spend money on unnecessary stuff.

Is it true yo can test for a faulty maf sensor by unplugging it and if car doesn't shut off it means its indeed the sensor? because i tried that and my car kept running just started throwing sensor on in my dashboard but still kept on.

2010 Infiniti G37x 67k

steering fluid flush done
brake fluid flush done
antifreeze flush done
differential flush done
going to do transmission soon

JustROLLIN

iTrader: (1)

So when you pulled codes, was there only a P0300 code, or was there also a P0101 or 102 code. The P0300 is the random misfire, but you say it pointed to the MAF. A P0101 is specifically a MAF code and would indicate an issue with that component. A random misfire code can be plugs, coils, etc. Its really a pretty wide array of possible causes, but some basic plugs would be a good start.

If you have a P0101 or 102, I would just go ahead and replace the MAF that is throwing the code.

As for the MAF trick, I am not really sure that would work on this car, as it has two MAFs. Works well on a car with one MAF, as you know for certain after you unplug it.

drizzy315

hey bro thanks man. so since there are 2 maf sensors should i be cleaning both i thought it was just the one by the air box. i got the paper with the codes at home i will report back with exact codes later today.

JustROLLIN

iTrader: (1)

Yes, correct. There are two MAFs on this car. They are both in the middle of the intake tube, after the filter. When you clean them, get yourself some MAF cleaner in a can, and spray on some liberal amounts. I literally just cleaned mine like two days ago. Very easy job to do.

I would recommend you spray on the cleaner from the side and the front and then a bit from the back. Once you get the MAF out, you will be able to see where the hot wire is and that is what you want to be sure is clean. I actually did mine right after a drive, so the hot wire was still warm and could help break loose anything that might be sticking to it.

JustROLLIN

iTrader: (1)

Here are a couple of pics that should help with cleaning, once you pull the MAFs out. It is only two screws per MAF and they are very low torque screws. Unplug each side and then pull one out, clean it, let it sit to the side and dry off, while you pull the other side clean it, and then let it sit while you reinstall the first side.

JustROLLIN

iTrader: (1)

Also, if you do need to replace one or both of them, looks like they are pretty cheap online. Saw one with good reviews for $40.

Glenn2008

iTrader: (3)

I have the same problem (P0300). I cleaned the MAF sensors two days ago and the SES light went off by itself. Initially, I had a high idle around 1100, but when I restarted the car about a half hour later, the rpm's dropped to 650. There now at a steady 650, before when I monitored rpm with my OBD II reader, they would fluctuate between 63? and 660. Now they are dead on 650.


One other note, I've been attempting to get to the source of my problem for a Month now. If you have a OBD II tool, you can monitor your long term and short term fuel flow. According the information that I found, they should be no more than +5% or -5%. If they are above that, you are either running too rich or lean. Rich if it's a neg and lean if it's positive. Your scan tool should also indicate which cylinder had the misfire. Mine only showed me I had 6 events, but since the code cleared, no cylinder or cylinders were shown. Also, if you have a temperature sensing gun, available at Harbor Freight, you can start the car cold and go to the exhaust on each cylinder and point to the exhaust port. If the car has a cylinder with a lower temp, that's the one that is throwing the code.

JustROLLIN

iTrader: (1)

That is great. Typically when I think of a P0300 - random misfire, I do not associate that with the MAF. Glad to hear this may clear up his concern.

That said, Drizzy, I would really clean them well. They usually recommend at least 10-15 strong sprays.

drizzy315

hey man yea very easy located both maf sprayed a good amount let them air dry in btwn sprays noticed slight improved performance but my car is still sputtering at cold start up only and and my idle is at about 850. ses light on steady still. i lost the print out from auto zone with the codes so i am going to stop by again pull codes i am staring suspect its a bad coil. spark plugs havent been changed since i bought the car in 2010 but i only have 67k on it so have been holding back should i start with plugs? or try identify the coil pack somehow?.

Thanks guy for info so far appreciate it.

Glenn2008

iTrader: (3)

Get the codes before you begin to change out parts.

drizzy315

so multiple codes detected.

P0301
P010C
P0102


i have attached print out.

drizzy315

should i start changing out the maf sensors or the spark plugs/coils?

JustROLLIN

iTrader: (1)

I would throw a MAF at it. You have multiple codes for the second MAF and have already taken some corrective action without success. The only other way you could really check the MAFs would be to swap the two around, drive around, and then see if you get bank 1 codes instead of bank 2. That way, you know for sure its the MAF.

I would also strongly recommend you purchase Torque, the app, for Android or Apple and then a cheap bluetooth OBDII code reader connector on Amazon. Total spend for the app and the reader will be around $30 and then you can pull codes, clear codes, see other parameters for your car, etc. Beats driving to AutoZone for codes everytime.

JustROLLIN

iTrader: (1)

My only other concern is the P0301 - Cyl one misfire. Could be from the MAF, but could also be the coil/plug. Either way, it seems you most certainly have a failing MAF, so correct that issue first and then go from there. At least that is how I would play it.

drizzy315

i will try the swapping them out to see if the bank numbers changes. Now the only other concern that is leaning me towards changing the spark plug and coil is the fact that i get sputtering at start up for quick 5 seconds and burning more gas than usual or can that also be related to the faulty maf sensor?