G37xBrock

So I have a 2012 g37x coupe with just over 60k miles. My "service engine soon" light came on a couple days ago and I just got the codes from O'Reilly today. I found all but one of them on this site. A lot of the codes for other folks on here seemed to pop up after a mod or making some sort of change to their car. I have mods (stillen gen 3 intakes, invidia gemini exhaust, custom tune, grounding kit, and a subwoofer) but all of these have been done at least 5 months ago or longer. I changed my brake pads and oil both in the last two months. My feeble attempts to get the service engine soon light to go off (before receiving codes from O'Reilly) included making sure my gas cap was secure, clearing the Trip B mileage, and cleaning/re-securing air sensors on my intakes. For the codes that I found on here, I saw a lot of explanation of what the issue might be but didn't see much of what was actually done to solve the issues. I've made some comments on a few of the posts but figured I'd post all of my codes here as well in the event that anyone else has had any of all of these and what they did to resolve the issue (via dealership, mechanic, and/or do it youself). If anyone has insight on what you or someone you know has done to fix the issue and what costs were incurred, I would appreciate any insight! Here are the codes along with the potential problems resulting in said codes being thrown as found on this forum and other internet sources:

p2A00 - Possible catalytic converter crack or exhaust leak? o2 sensor?
p0725 - CKP sensor? Communication error between ECM and TCM?
p0615 - Faulty TMC? PNP relay shorted?
u1000 - blown fuse?
c1109 - lack of power to ABS actuator

PNW_IPL

iTrader: (5)

Idk man. Those don't seem related to mods nor to each other. That's probably going to require a diag to get fixed. Hate to speculate but doesn't look good.

G37xBrock

Yeah I'm planning on getting into the shop sooner than later. I was just hoping maybe someone would say "oh it's as simple as doing this one really easy and cheap thing" but that just doesn't happen lol

Michael_in_DE

If all those are on one fuse, if it blows, it could connect them all. I would test/check each fuse for continuity. Start with the ones that relate to those codes/components.

G37xBrock

UPDATE: Took my car to my mechanic today. He checked the codes and only the P2A00 code was still there but it wasn't active. He said it was most likely a sign that an O2 sensor could be starting to go bad but that it wasn't anything to be concerned by. We've had some really cold days recently as well (negative temps) and he said there's a chance that may have factored into it as well. He cleared the code, test drove it, and the light stayed off. Very thankful that what I was concerned might be a costly repair ended up costing me nothing but a trip to the mechanic.

Side note: If anyone is in the KCMO area and needs a good mechanic, I would highly recommend Derek's Automotive in Lees Summit. Been going there for years. Super honest and friendly staff.

toured

Had a similar problem a week before Christmas, but my traction control was coming on as well. The mechanic suggested that we test the battery and as it turned out the battery was the issue. The battery was putting out a lower than normal voltage. Once we replace the battery all of the codes went away.

Hope that helps.

G37xBrock

Naturally, that was the first thing to come to mind. However, I just replaced my battery a few months ago so I was nearly certain that wasn't the issue. Luckily, my mechanic said it wasn't anything to be concerned by. Took it in last week had it checked out and the code cleared and haven't had any issues since.

Surfnazi

Remember oem battery needs to be refilled with diastilled water

G37xBrock

Random update:

Service engine soon light came on again yesterday. I was speculating that it had something to do with my mass airflow sensor (as my mechanic indicated when I last had this issue, although this code was not thrown last time) but this time it is throwing a p0300 code. Light came on then started flashing and went away. Was on when I started my car today and went through different phases of flashing and staying solid. Been seeing different non-conclusive answers on here so I'm planning on taking it to the mechanic for a diagnostic before I sink money into senseless solutions. If anyone has any input, I'd appreciate it. If not, I'll post my findings back once I figure it out.

G37xBrock

UPDATE: Took it to a mechanic about a week ago and had them do a diagnostic on the car. They told me I needed new spark plugs (I'm at 62k miles). I pointed out to them that they were looking at when they need to be changed on the IPL (60k) and that mine is an X (100k). They also recommended BG 44k. For that and new spark plugs they quoted me almost $700 for parts and labor which seemed astronomical to me. Gonna look into the BG 44k on my own. All that said, when they did the diagnostics, they cleaned my throttle bodies and the light has stayed off and car has been running normal ever since.

Michael_in_DE

It has been my experience that a blinking CEL has been a misfire. Which is probably why they want to do your plugs. Not an unreasonable diagnosis, but maybe not where I would start. A misfire IS caused about 60% of the time by a bad plug. But there is the whole other 40%. And given you only have 60k on it that tells me that it being plugs is less likely than usual to be caused by the plugs. Misfires can also be created by bad coils, or clogged or stuck-open injectors.

A higher end scanner will do wonders for you. It will tell you which cylinder is misfiring and posibly why. It will tell you sparkplug activity, and it will give you the injector activity. this is how a guy on another forum tracked down a stuck-open injector that was causing misfires and creating what seemed like a fuel leak. And by high end, I only mean something around $100-$125ish. Then you can concentrate on that ONE misfiring cylinder, and replace one $12 plug yourself, or one Coil or one injector. Hell, you could replace all 3, plus buy the scanner, and still be waaaay under the quote you were given, except you now also have a nice scanner AND its fixed for less than half the cost. this is why I do my own work. I'm no mechanic but investing the time in learning things and investing in tools not only saves you a ton of money, but it also saves you from being taken advantage of unscrupulous mechanics that are only throwing parts at it anyway!

G37xBrock

Yeah that's not a bad idea at all. The only problem with that is I called my mechanic from back home and he told me the code I'm getting isn't specific to a certain cylinder and that if it were showing a specific cylinder is would have another number attached to it. That's why I just had the shop clean my throttle bodies (as suggested on another forum post) and it seems to be the fix for now. The car has been running the same as the day I bought it so I'm definitely not feeling it misfiring if that is indeed what it is doing. The other post that recommended cleaning the throttle bodies said that issue can sometimes cause it to feel like it is misfiring. Hoping I'm good at least until summer once I graduate and find a job cause even a few hundred bucks is a stretch right now unless I absolutely have to spend it.

Michael_in_DE

I knew the dirty throttle bodies was an issue, but I didn't realize it was that big of an issue! I am glad you are running good right now. Hopefully she'll continue to run well for you. Go easy on the throttle, when I would go WOT is when I actually noticed my misfires, and when the CEL would get all pissed at me.

G37xBrock

Another update on this unfortunate saga:

Service engine soon light came on again at the end of last week and I could feel the car misfiring. Took it to a different shop than the one that just wanted to do sparkplugs and they told me that an incorrect aftermarket tune was causing the car to run rich and that has lead to my oem cats essentially being destroyed as well as ruining my air fuel ratio sensors. He recommends I go back to stock intakes on top of the new cats and sensors. Looking at probably a $2000 bill all because of a bad tune and I'm pretty salty about it to say the least. I may need a new thread for my upcoming questions but I'm going to post them here as well anyway. If I have my mechanic flash the factory tune back onto the car will that make me lose my uprev license in the event I ever want to get the car correctly retuned? Since I have to get my cats replaced, is it worth going aftermarket? Mechanic told me that a lot of the aftermarket cats cause check engine lights after being installed so I didn't know if there was a particular aftermarket brand that is better for this than another?

Michael_in_DE

First off, I had no idea you were running a tune. I am HIGHLY skeptical of those. It's different on a turbo car where you have some leeway but on an NA car, Tunes are too expensive, and provide too little ROI, and in order to give you the MOST ROI, they jack the numbers too much, and when you do that.... you end up with half a dozen CELs.

You are gonna have to decide who you are and what your car is going to be. Are you tuned up and will be working on your car and have it tuned and tweaked and have occasional problems, or are you a let-the-garage-deal-with-it-and-keep-it-stock and I don't want problems guy, because you can't have both.

So, one thing at a time:
1 Aftermarket tune making it run rich? totally plausible, and quite possible.
2. OEM cats ruined from running rich? Very possible DEPENDING on when you got it tuned, and how many miles you have put on it.


More coming