Intake valve cleaner / MAF sensor cleaner
 

Has anyone tried to use it on their G?
I bought one can and contemplating about getting some carbon built up cleaned off the valves since I am nearing 100k miles on the car.

Also since I will be replacing remaining valve cover gaskets, could I just spray this on the top of the valves, and let it marinate for an hour + or should I just spray this into my cold air intake tube closes to the throttle body as directed.



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...83ebba9d0a.jpg


Also got MAF sensor cleaner, any thoughts on that?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b4ed7df4be.jpg

First one doesn't work as well as seafoaming. The maf sensor cleaner works well you can also use rubbing alcohol and qtip carefully to clean but spray is easier

never mind

When you do your valve covers you'll be able to see for yourself. Valves dont get that dirty in these engines.
Once the manifold is off and you are still wanting to do this you could spray it in each runner, just know the valves wont open unless the engine is on (VVEL mechanism) regardless of how many times you spin the engine.
So technically is best to do so when the engine is on.

My best recommendation is to leave the throttles connected to the harness, and clean them while connected to the harness this way you avoid ANY issues whatsoever with idle and idle relearn. 60% chance you'll have to do a re-learn if you disconnect the throttles.
You can remove the coolant lines going to them and leave the electrical connector on. You have a lot more room than one thinks they do.

As for cleaning of the throttles, leave them connected, put the key on engine off, place the car in gear and press the accelerator pedal. This will open the butterflies and will let you clean the body of the throttle.

2x per year, I have always used the Techron standard mix that is often on sale and treats up to 12 gallons; with this version, I have never really noticed any difference:
I recently decided to try the "High Mileage" version of the same, which treats up to 20 gallons and it made my car feel much more responsive as I ran it until I was down to about 1/4 tank (felt like I fed the car a multivitamin):
Like Bull said, our port injected cars likely never need a product like this if you are using Top Tier gasoline, so I was surprised that the car responded so well to the high mileage blend. God only knows what they put in this stuff, so I still limit its use to 1-2 times per year in all my cars. Wish there was an answer for direct injected cars as my wife’s Honda is getting up there and these additives seem to do little for that style of fuel injection.

Anything direct injected only not direct injected + port fuel injection will ONLY be solved by manual cleaning.

Either walnut blasting, dry ice cleaning or manual scrubbing with degreaser will be the options. But manifold has to come off, intelligent people have to be behind the work as well.

Twin Turbos on tiny displacement engines, direct injection, ultra complex electronics.

Are the days of 100K mile plus cars behind us? Feels like planned obsolescence. Or maybe just the seague to EV?

Back to the 1980s where if you got 70K miles out of a car, you were a mechanical savant that carried a toolbox in your trunk.

I think there is some merit to that but main % to side effects from this newer tech.

In the DI world there was a lot of push for efficiency first which DI does but the side effect of dirty intake valves was not planned out well. A dual injected type of engine would have solved the dirty valves but at a high cost and more complexity of the fueling system. 2 rails, 2 pumps, 2x injectors per cyl which at the end is easier to incorporate valve cleaning as a service.
This was exacerbated by turbo engines, No turbo will survive too much after 100k miles and their failures will be oil introduction into the intake track, much more than a PCV system. In a direct injected engine this speeds up the valve contamination which usually folks get to after they notice lower power and smoking. This turbo failure will gunk up your cat's which will cause a turbo failure to cost you thousands of dollars.

It's a bit hard to point if its obsolescence or side effects of trying to meet EPA demands while keeping the consumer happy. Consumer was upset in the 90s with the ridding of turbos because lack of power but in today's more financially aware and financially inflated world the customer doesnt want these multi-dimensional failures.

The answer for me is to settle on something proven reliable and modify it to your liking.