First Stillen SC A-A Upgrade Kit - G37xs
09-22-2017, 12:10 PM
#106
Registered Member
Bs
Man...I don't you'll ever get off that train man. (no joke I bet 50% of your posts mention STILLEN's tune) 
The STILLEN Tune of old was pretty bad. However, we have redone so many of the tunes that they are reliable. The goal with the canned tune was consistency, not optimal power. It is impossible to have preset tunes that will be amazing for every car because of all the variables. If you want the best results, a custom tune is almost always your best bet, but for those without access to a good local tuner, the canned tune works well and is reliable.
*Note: a lot of people were able to download the old tunes for quite a while before all of them were updated. Hence why there were still a lot more complaints flying around even semi recently.
The STILLEN Tune of old was pretty bad. However, we have redone so many of the tunes that they are reliable. The goal with the canned tune was consistency, not optimal power. It is impossible to have preset tunes that will be amazing for every car because of all the variables. If you want the best results, a custom tune is almost always your best bet, but for those without access to a good local tuner, the canned tune works well and is reliable.
*Note: a lot of people were able to download the old tunes for quite a while before all of them were updated. Hence why there were still a lot more complaints flying around even semi recently.
08-27-2019, 11:14 AM
#108
Update:
The car runs great. Sebastian did an awesome job with communication and the tune in general. My transmission lag that I had with all my previous tuners is now COMPLETELY GONE! I'm tinkering with his 7AT launch hack right now and hopefully I'll get on the strip tomorrow. I can definitely feel the gains in my butt dyno because I get sucked into the seat. The best thing is that there's no heatsoaking, so I can do run after run
I ran it the car on a dyno during a dyno day and here are the results. There's a nice gain in torque, but they let off at 6600 even though I told them to redline it at 7500. Their dyno runs very low in general (As you can see from the old dyno sheets), so the gains are looking pretty good so far.
No sheets as of now. I just emailed them to see if they have them on file, so I can see the actual powerband.
Old:
Attachment 133539
New:
Attachment 133540
The car runs great. Sebastian did an awesome job with communication and the tune in general. My transmission lag that I had with all my previous tuners is now COMPLETELY GONE! I'm tinkering with his 7AT launch hack right now and hopefully I'll get on the strip tomorrow. I can definitely feel the gains in my butt dyno because I get sucked into the seat. The best thing is that there's no heatsoaking, so I can do run after run
I ran it the car on a dyno during a dyno day and here are the results. There's a nice gain in torque, but they let off at 6600 even though I told them to redline it at 7500. Their dyno runs very low in general (As you can see from the old dyno sheets), so the gains are looking pretty good so far.
No sheets as of now. I just emailed them to see if they have them on file, so I can see the actual powerband.
Old:
Attachment 133539
New:
Attachment 133540
I'm currently in the process of trying to buy the Topgunz A2A kit for my AWD coupe ("trying to buy" means I have serious anxiety about making the jump).
Every thread I see with someone with a similar car seems a lot like your thread....good initial info, then low dyno numbers (is that really only 370whp? yikes) then discussions of ongoing naggling issues, then "I'll take it to the 1/4 mile strip soon" but no one ever does!
Then, the thread dies off. Often times I found the OP sold their car! Sometimes you see it in their sig!
Did you give up?
Did you get 1/4 mile times?
Did you figure out why the WHP was so low?
Do you think the new A2A kit would be at least 420whp these days?
If you could get back on these I'd super appreciate it because I can't find one guy who has fully detailed (or even KEPT their car!) the entire process, and you have the same car as me!
I know the trend these days is to show social media your progress through FB or IG, and these forums are being left out. But, I think your experience can be better accessed and archived through a vehicle specific forum and not a trendy social media platform.
If you gave up on the car, as I think most others have (judging by the death of their threads at about this point) I will take that as a confirmation of my anxiety and NOT try to mod my Q60.
If you can update this thread I'd be super appreciative, thanks!
08-27-2019, 12:57 PM
#109
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Hey, I kinda got lost on where I was on this, but the car has been in storage for over a year at this point. I still have plenty of plans for it, but there's been a couple thing I've been slowly working on.
Setbacks:
1. When I had the car repainted, the shop actually had it sitting out in the snow the whole winter, so there's been lots of residual surface rust and terribly rusted bolts that needs replacing/refinishing.
2. The car was side swiped by a truck at one point.
3. Tow truck damaged the car.
Here is what I'm currently "working" on whenever I have time. Mind you, I live in the city and the car is sitting at a friend's place an hour away, so I have to venture out to work on it.
1. Re-dye interior leather.
2. Diff bushing/cover replacement + fluids
3. Subframe bushing collars
4. Replacing Setrab oil cooler with Frozenboost due to a crack in the core (I thought this was a larger issue, but I'm glad it was this)
5. Replacing oil pan and adding a spacer.
6. Replacing blower with a V7 YSI + switching to a cog setup.
Now to answer your questions.
Did you give up? No.
Did you get 1/4 mile times? No. The closest drag strip shut down, so I lost the urge to check again. I ran 12.5 with the stock setup. Comparing it to other cars, I should be around 11.9-12s.
Did you figure out why the WHP was so low? I honestly forgot about this, but here is my recollection. Every dyno I ran this car on was a heartbreaker dyno. With the V3-Ti I was easily hovering around 500awhp on 93. Mind you, I'm setup for flex fuel, but have yet to tune for it.
Do you think the new A2A kit would be at least 420whp these days? The A2A kit is sitting at a great price from TopGunz and you can buy it as a whole kit, which is nice. Since it comes with an Si trim blower, you should be able to hit around 500awhp. I'm not sure where you are located, but the R35 twin turbo is a recent option for us as well. Honestly, there's been pretty big developments and better overall understandings on the stillen kit as of the recent few years. I'm glad to go into more detail if you'd like. Here is some food for thought: What is your budget and overall goals for your project? Do you have access to E85? What type of power curve are you looking for?
I've been meaning to post on here, but as you've said, everyone has moved over to FB. I'll try my best to post some more updates here though when I get another chance.
Setbacks:
1. When I had the car repainted, the shop actually had it sitting out in the snow the whole winter, so there's been lots of residual surface rust and terribly rusted bolts that needs replacing/refinishing.
2. The car was side swiped by a truck at one point.
3. Tow truck damaged the car.
Here is what I'm currently "working" on whenever I have time. Mind you, I live in the city and the car is sitting at a friend's place an hour away, so I have to venture out to work on it.
1. Re-dye interior leather.
2. Diff bushing/cover replacement + fluids
3. Subframe bushing collars
4. Replacing Setrab oil cooler with Frozenboost due to a crack in the core (I thought this was a larger issue, but I'm glad it was this)
5. Replacing oil pan and adding a spacer.
6. Replacing blower with a V7 YSI + switching to a cog setup.
Now to answer your questions.
Did you give up? No.
Did you get 1/4 mile times? No. The closest drag strip shut down, so I lost the urge to check again. I ran 12.5 with the stock setup. Comparing it to other cars, I should be around 11.9-12s.
Did you figure out why the WHP was so low? I honestly forgot about this, but here is my recollection. Every dyno I ran this car on was a heartbreaker dyno. With the V3-Ti I was easily hovering around 500awhp on 93. Mind you, I'm setup for flex fuel, but have yet to tune for it.
Do you think the new A2A kit would be at least 420whp these days? The A2A kit is sitting at a great price from TopGunz and you can buy it as a whole kit, which is nice. Since it comes with an Si trim blower, you should be able to hit around 500awhp. I'm not sure where you are located, but the R35 twin turbo is a recent option for us as well. Honestly, there's been pretty big developments and better overall understandings on the stillen kit as of the recent few years. I'm glad to go into more detail if you'd like. Here is some food for thought: What is your budget and overall goals for your project? Do you have access to E85? What type of power curve are you looking for?
I've been meaning to post on here, but as you've said, everyone has moved over to FB. I'll try my best to post some more updates here though when I get another chance.
08-27-2019, 01:27 PM
#110
Here is some food for thought: What is your budget and overall goals for your project? Do you have access to E85? What type of power curve are you looking for?
I've been meaning to post on here, but as you've said, everyone has moved over to FB. I'll try my best to post some more updates here though when I get another chance.
I've been meaning to post on here, but as you've said, everyone has moved over to FB. I'll try my best to post some more updates here though when I get another chance.
No "budget" I can spend whatever it takes. However, a budget goal I have is to keep in the "sweet spot" where cost/improvement make the most sense, so with that I think under $10K and around 450whp is "reasonable" to spend on this platform before I should consider a different vehicle.
I don't want E85 and we can't get over 91 in my area.
My main goal is to avoid creating any issues. My last project car was an old FWD Maxima that I swapped a VQ35DE from an I35 into. I was the only person to do a FULL swap which meant tearing out the OBDI and putting OBDII Consult2 Canbus into the car, kept the NATS, the entire old Maxima was actually an I35 underneath, gauges, door locks, cruise control, all ran on the Consult2 Canbus from the donor car. The only issue I EVER had with that car was my cold starts could be weird, sometimes the car would need 6-8 revolutions before firing off. I had a modified fuel delivery system in that car and I could never get over that starting issue. Aside from the starting issue, I put over 100k on it post-swap for a total of 300k on the chassis. That was a good car!
My last car was a 2016 GTI DSG tuned. At 20k miles I actually blew the so-called "indestructible" DSG by hauling butt through mountain passes at high boost for extended periods of time. Had to have the DSG replaced. This was something people warn of on the 7AT with regards to turbo: avoid high torque at lower revs" my GTI could pull hard at 3K rpms, and even the DSG seemed to not like that (I wasn't WOT at 3K, just riding the mean mid-range torque at higher speeds for extended periods of time, seemed "OK" to do with that car).
So my tech goals are to avoid introducing any new issues, one of which is when I modify the fuel delivery system (returnless with 340 Aeromotive and CJM tophat) I would like to NOT create any issues with that, as I have seen this situation give some people the same issue my Maxima had.
The problem is, people share the troubleshooting process of the issue.....they discuss drilling out the little black plastic thing in the fuel basket, whether or not they need to drill out the FPR on the fuel rail.....then just when you think they are about to solve it, the thread dies off without any resolution!
For me, I may try installing the 340 fuel pump and CJM tophat first and make sure my car doesn't develop a new issue, then install the A2A kit and go from there.
I have considered the turbo kit. My problem is that I don't have access to a lift. And aside from probably needing to address OEM cat issues, I don't think the A2A kit needs a lift. If the cats go, I can just have a local shop change out the cats for resonated test pipes (or something).
If I go turbo I will NEED a lift for the entire project (I will DIY most things) and who knows how long I'd need a lift for? Then, probably gonna blow the 7AT with the turbo kit and that'll again need a lift.
I recently put long tube headers, HFCs and Uprev tune on my Nissan Titan. It is definitely faster now, but I am having all kinds of issues...the LT headers seem to be poor quality and appears I have little leaks, my MPG has gone down to 9mpg and I keep getting a P2A00 CEL every few hundred miles. I have had it in to an exhaust shop to check for leaks, have had my tuner try to decipher the logs to see what is causing it...arghh, I just don't want this crap occurring to my Q60! I know the only way to preserve my Q60 is to leave it alone, but I LOVE tinkering with machines.
So that kinda sums up my goals, keep it reliable, make it "worth it" to drive without thinking I should have got a different car (2020 Corvette!! no, JK) and my car is low key, I don't want it to "look like" or "sound like" it is modified. I think 450whp and <$10K should get that???
08-27-2019, 03:39 PM
#111
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Ok, so you want a nice little sleeper. Honestly, if you want to minimize your possible future transmission issues, then the vortech blower (stillen kit) is the way to go. You can do some small transmission upgrades if you want, but the kit is fairly low on torque, especially compared to turbo setups. If you were going to go with the gtr turbos, it would be a few days if you haul ***, which could be drastically longer, since you need to replace your subframe as well.
For the 340 Aero, I highly suggest you hardwire it as well. The oem wiring is very thing and when I did mine the wires were actually melted. If you go to Charles's site (owner of CJM), it has step by step instructions on how to do the install for the pump and hat.
For the sake of reliability, I should stress that you should leave the kit alone after you do the install. I was at a really good spot after I transitioned to A2A and had 0 issues until I got power hungry and decided to do this new blower upgrade. Don't follow my steps by altering it over and over haha.
Have you also found a tuner yet?
If you'd like to discuss this easier on FB, you can find me as Kaoboy Bibimbop.
For the 340 Aero, I highly suggest you hardwire it as well. The oem wiring is very thing and when I did mine the wires were actually melted. If you go to Charles's site (owner of CJM), it has step by step instructions on how to do the install for the pump and hat.
For the sake of reliability, I should stress that you should leave the kit alone after you do the install. I was at a really good spot after I transitioned to A2A and had 0 issues until I got power hungry and decided to do this new blower upgrade. Don't follow my steps by altering it over and over haha.
Have you also found a tuner yet?
If you'd like to discuss this easier on FB, you can find me as Kaoboy Bibimbop.
08-27-2019, 04:02 PM
#112
Ok, so you want a nice little sleeper. Honestly, if you want to minimize your possible future transmission issues, then the vortech blower (stillen kit) is the way to go. You can do some small transmission upgrades if you want, but the kit is fairly low on torque, especially compared to turbo setups. If you were going to go with the gtr turbos, it would be a few days if you haul ***, which could be drastically longer, since you need to replace your subframe as well.
For the 340 Aero, I highly suggest you hardwire it as well. The oem wiring is very thing and when I did mine the wires were actually melted. If you go to Charles's site (owner of CJM), it has step by step instructions on how to do the install for the pump and hat.
For the sake of reliability, I should stress that you should leave the kit alone after you do the install. I was at a really good spot after I transitioned to A2A and had 0 issues until I got power hungry and decided to do this new blower upgrade. Don't follow my steps by altering it over and over haha.
Have you also found a tuner yet?
If you'd like to discuss this easier on FB, you can find me as Kaoboy Bibimbop.
For the 340 Aero, I highly suggest you hardwire it as well. The oem wiring is very thing and when I did mine the wires were actually melted. If you go to Charles's site (owner of CJM), it has step by step instructions on how to do the install for the pump and hat.
For the sake of reliability, I should stress that you should leave the kit alone after you do the install. I was at a really good spot after I transitioned to A2A and had 0 issues until I got power hungry and decided to do this new blower upgrade. Don't follow my steps by altering it over and over haha.
Have you also found a tuner yet?
If you'd like to discuss this easier on FB, you can find me as Kaoboy Bibimbop.
to pills.. it really depends what you want in a car. If you’re looking for 1/4 times I don’t think this is your route it has AWD but doesn’t make the torque. And I feel for you auto guys I wouldn’t wanna have to build the transmission either. The new audi RS line I thought were to have good transmissions very tempted to trade my 6MT WRX for a RS3. A used GTR is RS3 money anyways so it’s an option if you just want a fast 1/4 although Audi has been known for understeer and RS3 has been no exception so it’s not as advanced as a R35. Not gonna lie last time I did a mountain cruise all the 10mph hairpins had me thinking a DCT and torquey turbo setup wouldn’t suck. This route was easier for me since my G coupe has been 100% interchangeable with 370z parts and it gives me a 6MT with about no hp limitations on the jk41 transmission.
08-27-2019, 04:27 PM
#113
Ok, so you want a nice little sleeper. Honestly, if you want to minimize your possible future transmission issues, then the vortech blower (stillen kit) is the way to go. You can do some small transmission upgrades if you want, but the kit is fairly low on torque, especially compared to turbo setups. If you were going to go with the gtr turbos, it would be a few days if you haul ***, which could be drastically longer, since you need to replace your subframe as well.
For the 340 Aero, I highly suggest you hardwire it as well. The oem wiring is very thing and when I did mine the wires were actually melted. If you go to Charles's site (owner of CJM), it has step by step instructions on how to do the install for the pump and hat.
For the sake of reliability, I should stress that you should leave the kit alone after you do the install. I was at a really good spot after I transitioned to A2A and had 0 issues until I got power hungry and decided to do this new blower upgrade. Don't follow my steps by altering it over and over haha.
Have you also found a tuner yet?
If you'd like to discuss this easier on FB, you can find me as Kaoboy Bibimbop.
For the 340 Aero, I highly suggest you hardwire it as well. The oem wiring is very thing and when I did mine the wires were actually melted. If you go to Charles's site (owner of CJM), it has step by step instructions on how to do the install for the pump and hat.
For the sake of reliability, I should stress that you should leave the kit alone after you do the install. I was at a really good spot after I transitioned to A2A and had 0 issues until I got power hungry and decided to do this new blower upgrade. Don't follow my steps by altering it over and over haha.
Have you also found a tuner yet?
If you'd like to discuss this easier on FB, you can find me as Kaoboy Bibimbop.
Sorry to hear about the setbacks with your car, I am relieved that the S/C aspect is under control.
As far as tuner, yes I have a respected ECUTek shop not too far from me that can AWD dyno my car, so even if I have remote tuning done I'll probably still reserve some dyno time just to have the car thoroughly checked over.
08-27-2019, 04:46 PM
#114
to pills.. it really depends what you want in a car. If you’re looking for 1/4 times I don’t think this is your route it has AWD but doesn’t make the torque. And I feel for you auto guys I wouldn’t wanna have to build the transmission either. The new audi RS line I thought were to have good transmissions very tempted to trade my 6MT WRX for a RS3. A used GTR is RS3 money anyways so it’s an option if you just want a fast 1/4 although Audi has been known for understeer and RS3 has been no exception so it’s not as advanced as a R35. Not gonna lie last time I did a mountain cruise all the 10mph hairpins had me thinking a DCT and torquey turbo setup wouldn’t suck. This route was easier for me since my G coupe has been 100% interchangeable with 370z parts and it gives me a 6MT with about no hp limitations on the jk41 transmission.
I'm not looking to beat a certain car or be fastest, heck I even enjoy my stock Q60 just fine. I like to tinker with the car and would like to feel that my money and effort is justified by good/strong gains. I am a bit OCD and narcissistic about modifying cars, I took great joy in knowing that my VQ35DE swapped Maxima was a surprising mild sleeper but more importantly it was extremely reliable for 100K miles after I swapped it. Despite being an ugly car, it rates up their as one of the best I have owned, and one of my more successful endeavors.
Ideally, the Q60 would end up "surprisingly quick" and I could look back on it in a few years and still feel proud of it's (hopeful) reliability.
Fair warning on the RS3: I LOVED my 2016 GTI. And it had me at car shows salivating over the RS3 or S8 or GolfR. I kept telling my wife "one of these is our next car!" But, the GTI spent way too much time in the shop for ridiculous things. Like the pano roof seal just degraded one day, and the pop-up wind deflector, which looked like ladies legging material, developed a bunch of holes. That cost a lot under warranty to fix, and I couldn't understand why my pano roof seal would begin to crumble away in such a mild climate (PNW Wa State). The CEL came on when brand new my first night (never came on again) there were a bunch of naggling little issues with EVAP and fuel system recalls, once my AFS lights acted weird and I had to reboot the car. I could see that owning that car post-warranty would be very expensive.
Then the DSG went out on a Stage 1 tune. That wasn't supposed to happen according to the internet!
I got to drive every current VW car made except GolfR, the previous Passat is a horrible car and the 2019 Golf Sportwagen AWD was surprisingly nice.
The good news about my GTI is that the paint was strong! Only had 1 minor chip on the nose, and I road-tripped that car a lot and tailgate a lot also. And the interior was so durable, after the lease was up the car still looked like brand new, even after using it to frequently shuttle my young soon around for 3 years.
08-28-2019, 01:13 PM
#115
Registered Member
Thread Starter
The topic on building these sealed supercharger units has always been very difficult to conclude. I've done plenty of research on the V3 units, especially on the mustang/vette forums, since they utilize the same blowers. A very big trend has been that whenever you upgrade your blower via a 3rd party (especially 928), you have the chance of running into issues with oil blowback on the vent plug. I've personally seen this on local setups as well as many on the forums. The only solutions I've found are by pulleying up (less boost) or replacing the vent plug with a shipping plug (Although this MAY blow your seals). Some people are fine, so it seems to be a toss up. This is one of the main reasons why I ended up buying a Ti trim V3 instead of modifying my Sci trim.
Dyno time isn't necessary honestly unless you are tuning for flex fuel or want an estimate on your #s. I'm guessing you are going with Seb or Jon. Seb is my 3rd tuner so far and he's been great!
Dyno time isn't necessary honestly unless you are tuning for flex fuel or want an estimate on your #s. I'm guessing you are going with Seb or Jon. Seb is my 3rd tuner so far and he's been great!
08-28-2019, 02:12 PM
#116
The topic on building these sealed supercharger units has always been very difficult to conclude. I've done plenty of research on the V3 units, especially on the mustang/vette forums, since they utilize the same blowers. A very big trend has been that whenever you upgrade your blower via a 3rd party (especially 928), you have the chance of running into issues with oil blowback on the vent plug. I've personally seen this on local setups as well as many on the forums. The only solutions I've found are by pulleying up (less boost) or replacing the vent plug with a shipping plug (Although this MAY blow your seals). Some people are fine, so it seems to be a toss up. This is one of the main reasons why I ended up buying a Ti trim V3 instead of modifying my Sci trim.
Dyno time isn't necessary honestly unless you are tuning for flex fuel or want an estimate on your #s. I'm guessing you are going with Seb or Jon. Seb is my 3rd tuner so far and he's been great!
Dyno time isn't necessary honestly unless you are tuning for flex fuel or want an estimate on your #s. I'm guessing you are going with Seb or Jon. Seb is my 3rd tuner so far and he's been great!
what numbers are you running your Ti on? Saw a guy making 850whp with one of those but he’s running cog pulleys to make it work without slipping like crazy. Do you have pics of your Ti build? What did you need to modify besides adding an oil feed line? How much boost can you run without belt slip on a T trim? The difference in price between super Si vs Ti is small enough it’s worth considering
Last edited by RickyBobby; 08-28-2019 at 02:52 PM.
08-28-2019, 03:44 PM
#117
Registered Member
Thread Starter
Make sure you do your head studs if you decide to run that much boost. They tend to lift over 12psi.
I sold my Ti blower last year, but I was running about 11.5psi with the stock Topgunz setup and the 9psi pulley. Btw, the Ti-trim is still a self-contained unit. The only difference is that there's more RPMs due to a LARGER impeller (not different impeller design). The unit is slightly larger, but it was a direct swap for the original V3.
Honestly The price difference between all their blowers is relatively not large unless you get into the specialized units. Keep in mind the Si will probably have more lower end boost than the Ti, but the Ti will have more up top. I never pushed the unit because I didn't want to deal with possibilities of the oil slinger failing. This is another reason why I've decided to venture to the V7, which will require the oil feed line.
I sold my Ti blower last year, but I was running about 11.5psi with the stock Topgunz setup and the 9psi pulley. Btw, the Ti-trim is still a self-contained unit. The only difference is that there's more RPMs due to a LARGER impeller (not different impeller design). The unit is slightly larger, but it was a direct swap for the original V3.
Honestly The price difference between all their blowers is relatively not large unless you get into the specialized units. Keep in mind the Si will probably have more lower end boost than the Ti, but the Ti will have more up top. I never pushed the unit because I didn't want to deal with possibilities of the oil slinger failing. This is another reason why I've decided to venture to the V7, which will require the oil feed line.
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