digiera

Finally was able to drive with obd on and, although I'm not sure what it means but the trim gauge shows ST never going between -5 and +8 and LT staying over +15. Didn't see any signs of cracks in the hose btwn MAF and intake but its definitely an older hose. Refueled and no limp mode this time.

PNW_IPL

iTrader: (5)

I know this is an old thread but wanted to document my experience with limp mode no codes. I knew it was going to happen as I had it happen with long tube intake and no battery reset. This time ART pipes. I purposely did not disconnect the battery when removing ART pipes and installing oem cats. Upon completion I fired her up cold start and that was normal. Then I tried to rev to the normal 4.5k rev limit and nothing. Could floor the gas and would not pass 2k. No codes or anything. Turned her off reset battery and fired up and normal. Instant power increase. I thought for sure mouse or rag was clogging the cats or something but it was the dramatic modification change. Same happened with long tube g3. Huge change the car could not adjust to without battery reset. Again no codes just no power.

Israel6

Change your transmission fluid.

2011-G

Sorry to revive an old thread but it happened to me last night

After few races and some aggressive shifting, the car went into limp mode - No check engine light - Engine would not rev over 2k rpm
Turned the car off and let it rest for few hours and it was fine.

Wonder what went wrong - The oil temp was fine - Recently I am also showing the traction slip light from time to time after acceleration. (Maybe I need to put some more brake fluid)
Tire sizes are 245 35 front and 285 30 in the rear

Surfnazi

Trans temp can cause it

2011-G

Thanks a friend of mine just told me the same thing and I will look into that stillen trans cooler kit. Any other better than that?

Surfnazi

Unless you tracking car it's not really needed. I would change trans fluid first

mike_engr

Our 2009 G37 Sedan used to go into Limp mode about 4 times a year..... Wife had to pull over and stop/start the engine as a work around....
We even complained to the dealer about it during warrantee period. Dealer never found or fixed anything, though they did "reflash" the transmission with newer software to soften the shifting (reduces the "engine braking" compared to the original Coupe programming...

Well after a couple "Limp" modes happened again in a single month I did renewed research (still years ago) and found that there was also a reflash for the engine controller.
Evidently the acceptable voltage range for the MAF sensor was set too restrictive in early programs, there was/is a newer program avail...

I went back to the dealer (after warrantee period) and showed them my records and the subsequent engine reflash info I found online - - they took the car back, admitted there was a flash available, did it for free since we'd had prior complaints, and we've had NO LIMP MODES since (and its been a few years trouble free)!
So, maybe you will have to look into the engine reflash avail at the dealer for your car. Good Luck. I hope this helps!

2011-G

Update: Added some brake fluid to my car and got rid of the traction/slip light issue.

Car didn't go into limp mode again but I have not been abusing it either

Conboss

Could be a once in a blue moon thing. I noticed someone mentioned 2K cut means throttle body issues. Perhaps the TB was having a fit or a wire was getting hot or something crazy. After all, you were racing!

2011-G

You could be right - I was shifting right at the red line and it was really hot day here in Texas - Didn't happen again but I think it could be because of hot temperature.

Maybe transmission needed a break lol - I really want to add the transmission cooler so the next time I am driving aggressively, it can take the beating.

Malik Scriven

can you elaborate on what happens when you don’t? Or when the people say at (jiffy lube , Goodyear, or anywhere that does engine service) dont change it?

Conboss

In a sense, transmission fluid degrades with temperature. The hotter the fluid gets, the faster it degrades. If your always running your trans within the temperature range, you can take that fluid forever! If your always in the 250+ range (overheating, track use, etc) you’ll be wearing on the fluid much faster.

That being said, I’ve seen most people become much happier after they change the fluid in these cars. I don’t know what is different, but when I did my old Honda vs my G, the Honda made no difference but the G was a much happier car. Just give it a shot, it was $175CAD for me to do it. Make sure you are using the Nissan fluid, though!!

MOEMANTHA

I had this same issue happen twice over the last couple months, both times it was at freezing out with wet blowing snow. car bucked and when I came to a stop would not accelerate over 2300 rpm. the idle was also erratic. going up to 1500 rpm and back down. any ideas? once I did a reset it drove normally. throttle bodies/ maf's were cleaned after the last time.

onealrk

that violent shaking is your ABS, possibly the brake light switch causing the problem.