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Old 08-21-2008, 06:59 AM
  #16  
jb5674
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People come on - I'm talkin 1-3 whp here. Not the difference of forced induction. Man, some people. I see adults like to act like kids.
Old 08-21-2008, 11:25 AM
  #17  
Black Betty
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Originally Posted by jb5674
People come on - I'm talkin 1-3 whp here. Not the difference of forced induction. Man, some people. I see adults like to act like kids.
You sound like an Amsoil distributor. And as far as acting like kids, maybe you should have read the OP's first post about not making this into a brand/type of oil pissing match.

Originally Posted by Ahujadaddy
Please DO NOT turn this into a Synthetic vs Conventional (Dino) oil debate, or bash others for caring about wut kinda oil they use.
Either send your "miracle oil" off to Blackstone, or GTFO please. K. Thx. Bye.
Old 08-21-2008, 01:36 PM
  #18  
Ahujadaddy
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Wowsers... i am skeptical about jb's posts here, esp with post count below 10. As for acting like kids.... wow. No comment

In fact, BlackBetty summed it up pretyy well. Let's agree to disagree, thanks.

Back on topic, im still a ways off before i send in my samples. $20ish per sample... guess its about time i gave back to this community which has helped me in the past.
Old 08-21-2008, 03:36 PM
  #19  
TomG37
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Originally Posted by Black Betty
You sound like an Amsoil distributor. And as far as acting like kids, maybe you should have read the OP's first post about not making this into a brand/type of oil pissing match.



Either send your "miracle oil" off to Blackstone, or GTFO please. K. Thx. Bye.
+1, let me guess you can give us a great deal on the oil too, you sound like a amsoil rep.

If the oil really did give a whp gain, I think there would be more posts about it, and other oil makers would copy the forumula.
Old 08-21-2008, 07:46 PM
  #20  
todd92
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For most people, who change conventional oil at 3750 miles or synthetic at 7500 miles, getting the oil analyzed is a waste of money. No oil will show anything interesting with such short drain intervals. Oil analysis comes into play when you are trying to find how far you can go, without going to far.
Old 08-21-2008, 09:18 PM
  #21  
Ahujadaddy
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cool, thanks for the info todd... that's why we have this thread. to find out and explore. so lets see what happens! =)

Some of us dont mind spending the $ since its something that intrigues us... almost hobby like. As they say... what ever floats your boat.
Old 10-28-2008, 11:46 PM
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DetroitG37Joe
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bump, any updates?
Old 10-28-2008, 11:47 PM
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Blackjack
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None from my side... I have them ready to send, I just haven't.
Old 10-28-2008, 11:52 PM
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DetroitG37Joe
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take your time boyy....

I'm approaching my 7500 oil change on Friday afternoon and am deciding between these 3 options:

1. Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Filter

2. German Castrol Synthetic 0w-30 with K&N Filter

3. Stick with OEM motor oil until 15k'ish before switching to synthetic as Black betty is - to be cautious and fully let the motor break in and seals set with conventional



Any input guys? BJ?
Old 10-29-2008, 01:15 AM
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rAvi665
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i got the kit from them just never sent it back...getting lazy..ill do it soon
Old 10-29-2008, 09:45 AM
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Seer
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where do you get the german castrol from? I can never find it.
Old 10-29-2008, 09:52 AM
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Blackjack
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Originally Posted by DetroitG37Joe
take your time boyy....

I'm approaching my 7500 oil change on Friday afternoon and am deciding between these 3 options:

1. Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Filter

2. German Castrol Synthetic 0w-30 with K&N Filter

3. Stick with OEM motor oil until 15k'ish before switching to synthetic as Black betty is - to be cautious and fully let the motor break in and seals set with conventional



Any input guys? BJ?
I've switched all my vehicles to synthetic around 5k and have never had a problem. I'm currently running Eneos with OEM filter, but I used to be an avid fan of Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Filter.

My recommendation... Run Synethic with OEM Filter. I'm partial to the following oils: Eneos, Motul, Amsoil, and Mobil 1.
Old 10-29-2008, 11:28 AM
  #28  
KahnQuistador
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The oil thing again!

Anyone here suffered engine failure tracable to "bad" oil?

Use the oil you like, keep it fresh and change it and your filters at reasonable intervals. Do the unthinkable and CHECK IT once in a while. If it's dirty sooner than you expected, change it and maybe try another brand.

Easy as that.

There is no "bad" name brand oil. If you see SAE on the container, it's good to go.

BTW, I have my flame suit on so fire away!
Old 10-29-2008, 07:14 PM
  #29  
JonnyOzero3
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Two UOA's for ya

Originally Posted by DetroitG37Joe
bump, any updates?
Huh...guess I missed this thread. I've done two so far. Next one will be soon.

I'm copying this from my posts at BITOG.com

1) Unk Factory Fill 5W-30 drained at 2670mi
MI/HR on oil - 2,670mi
MI/HR on car - 2,670mi
Sample date - 21 June 08
Oil added - 0 quarts

aluminum - 8
chromium - 0
iron - 71
copper - 140
lead - 12
tin - 1
molybdenum - 491
nickel - 1
manganese - 10
silver - 0
titanium - 0
potassium - 8
boron - 15
silicon - 229
sodium - 7
calcium - 1981
magnesium - 11
phosphorus - 734
zinc - 916
barium - 9

SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 52.3
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 7.97
Flashpoint in 'F - 390
Fuel % - <0.5
Antifreeze % - 0.0
Water % - 0.0
Insolubles % - 0.3
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...98#Post1187298
-----

2) Dealer Dino Valvoline 5W-30 Drained at 3830mi (previous UOA #'s in parenthesis)
MI/HR on oil - 3,830mi (2,670mi)
MI/HR on car - 6,501mi (2,670mi)
Sample date - 25 July 08 (21 June 08)
Oil added - 0 quarts (0 quarts)

aluminum - 7 (8)
chromium - 0 (0)
iron - 27 (71)
copper - 44 (140)
lead - 5 (12)
tin - 1 (1)
molybdenum - 136 (491)
nickel - 0 (1)
manganese - 4 (10)
silver - 0 (0)
titanium - 0 (0)
potassium - 3 (8)
boron - 6 (15)
silicon - 60 (229)
sodium - 7 (7)
calcium - 1805 (1981)
magnesium - 11 (11)
phosphorus - 672 (734)
zinc - 825 (916)
barium - 2 (9)

SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 53.6 (52.3)
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 8.36 (7.97)
Flashpoint in 'F - 380 (390)
Fuel % - <0.5 (<0.5)
Antifreeze % - 0.0 (0.0)
Water % - 0.0 (0.0)
Insolubles % - 0.3 (0.3)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...35#Post1209035

Enjoy.

I think I need the new ester oil for the TSB...I'll send that in too after it gets miles on it.
Old 10-29-2008, 07:22 PM
  #30  
Black Betty
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Originally Posted by KahnQuistador
The oil thing again!

Anyone here suffered engine failure tracable to "bad" oil?

Use the oil you like, keep it fresh and change it and your filters at reasonable intervals. Do the unthinkable and CHECK IT once in a while. If it's dirty sooner than you expected, change it and maybe try another brand.

Easy as that.

There is no "bad" name brand oil. If you see SAE on the container, it's good to go.

BTW, I have my flame suit on so fire away!
The only flaming I have for your statement is the "if it's dirty" part of your comments. There is very, very little you can tell by looking at your oil visually, hence the analysis. You cant see the stuff in oil that will do the real damage unless you have some very heavy sludge in it which is unlikely. You can't tell how "dirty" it is by color alone.


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