Blackstone Laboratories Oil Analysis Reports
#17
Lexus Defector
iTrader: (60)
Originally Posted by Ahujadaddy
Please DO NOT turn this into a Synthetic vs Conventional (Dino) oil debate, or bash others for caring about wut kinda oil they use.
#18
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: MD & NOVA
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Wowsers... i am skeptical about jb's posts here, esp with post count below 10. As for acting like kids.... wow. No comment
In fact, BlackBetty summed it up pretyy well. Let's agree to disagree, thanks.
Back on topic, im still a ways off before i send in my samples. $20ish per sample... guess its about time i gave back to this community which has helped me in the past.
In fact, BlackBetty summed it up pretyy well. Let's agree to disagree, thanks.
Back on topic, im still a ways off before i send in my samples. $20ish per sample... guess its about time i gave back to this community which has helped me in the past.
#19
Registered User
If the oil really did give a whp gain, I think there would be more posts about it, and other oil makers would copy the forumula.
#20
For most people, who change conventional oil at 3750 miles or synthetic at 7500 miles, getting the oil analyzed is a waste of money. No oil will show anything interesting with such short drain intervals. Oil analysis comes into play when you are trying to find how far you can go, without going to far.
#21
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cool, thanks for the info todd... that's why we have this thread. to find out and explore. so lets see what happens! =)
Some of us dont mind spending the $ since its something that intrigues us... almost hobby like. As they say... what ever floats your boat.
Some of us dont mind spending the $ since its something that intrigues us... almost hobby like. As they say... what ever floats your boat.
#24
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
take your time boyy....
I'm approaching my 7500 oil change on Friday afternoon and am deciding between these 3 options:
1. Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Filter
2. German Castrol Synthetic 0w-30 with K&N Filter
3. Stick with OEM motor oil until 15k'ish before switching to synthetic as Black betty is - to be cautious and fully let the motor break in and seals set with conventional
Any input guys? BJ?
I'm approaching my 7500 oil change on Friday afternoon and am deciding between these 3 options:
1. Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Filter
2. German Castrol Synthetic 0w-30 with K&N Filter
3. Stick with OEM motor oil until 15k'ish before switching to synthetic as Black betty is - to be cautious and fully let the motor break in and seals set with conventional
Any input guys? BJ?
#27
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
take your time boyy....
I'm approaching my 7500 oil change on Friday afternoon and am deciding between these 3 options:
1. Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Filter
2. German Castrol Synthetic 0w-30 with K&N Filter
3. Stick with OEM motor oil until 15k'ish before switching to synthetic as Black betty is - to be cautious and fully let the motor break in and seals set with conventional
Any input guys? BJ?
I'm approaching my 7500 oil change on Friday afternoon and am deciding between these 3 options:
1. Mobil 1 5w-30 Synthetic with Mobil 1 Filter
2. German Castrol Synthetic 0w-30 with K&N Filter
3. Stick with OEM motor oil until 15k'ish before switching to synthetic as Black betty is - to be cautious and fully let the motor break in and seals set with conventional
Any input guys? BJ?
My recommendation... Run Synethic with OEM Filter. I'm partial to the following oils: Eneos, Motul, Amsoil, and Mobil 1.
#28
The oil thing again!
Anyone here suffered engine failure tracable to "bad" oil?
Use the oil you like, keep it fresh and change it and your filters at reasonable intervals. Do the unthinkable and CHECK IT once in a while. If it's dirty sooner than you expected, change it and maybe try another brand.
Easy as that.
There is no "bad" name brand oil. If you see SAE on the container, it's good to go.
BTW, I have my flame suit on so fire away!
Anyone here suffered engine failure tracable to "bad" oil?
Use the oil you like, keep it fresh and change it and your filters at reasonable intervals. Do the unthinkable and CHECK IT once in a while. If it's dirty sooner than you expected, change it and maybe try another brand.
Easy as that.
There is no "bad" name brand oil. If you see SAE on the container, it's good to go.
BTW, I have my flame suit on so fire away!
#29
Registered User
Two UOA's for ya
Huh...guess I missed this thread. I've done two so far. Next one will be soon.
I'm copying this from my posts at BITOG.com
1) Unk Factory Fill 5W-30 drained at 2670mi
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...98#Post1187298
-----
2) Dealer Dino Valvoline 5W-30 Drained at 3830mi (previous UOA #'s in parenthesis)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...35#Post1209035
Enjoy.
I think I need the new ester oil for the TSB...I'll send that in too after it gets miles on it.
I'm copying this from my posts at BITOG.com
1) Unk Factory Fill 5W-30 drained at 2670mi
MI/HR on oil - 2,670mi
MI/HR on car - 2,670mi
Sample date - 21 June 08
Oil added - 0 quarts
aluminum - 8
chromium - 0
iron - 71
copper - 140
lead - 12
tin - 1
molybdenum - 491
nickel - 1
manganese - 10
silver - 0
titanium - 0
potassium - 8
boron - 15
silicon - 229
sodium - 7
calcium - 1981
magnesium - 11
phosphorus - 734
zinc - 916
barium - 9
SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 52.3
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 7.97
Flashpoint in 'F - 390
Fuel % - <0.5
Antifreeze % - 0.0
Water % - 0.0
Insolubles % - 0.3
MI/HR on car - 2,670mi
Sample date - 21 June 08
Oil added - 0 quarts
aluminum - 8
chromium - 0
iron - 71
copper - 140
lead - 12
tin - 1
molybdenum - 491
nickel - 1
manganese - 10
silver - 0
titanium - 0
potassium - 8
boron - 15
silicon - 229
sodium - 7
calcium - 1981
magnesium - 11
phosphorus - 734
zinc - 916
barium - 9
SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 52.3
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 7.97
Flashpoint in 'F - 390
Fuel % - <0.5
Antifreeze % - 0.0
Water % - 0.0
Insolubles % - 0.3
-----
2) Dealer Dino Valvoline 5W-30 Drained at 3830mi (previous UOA #'s in parenthesis)
MI/HR on oil - 3,830mi (2,670mi)
MI/HR on car - 6,501mi (2,670mi)
Sample date - 25 July 08 (21 June 08)
Oil added - 0 quarts (0 quarts)
aluminum - 7 (8)
chromium - 0 (0)
iron - 27 (71)
copper - 44 (140)
lead - 5 (12)
tin - 1 (1)
molybdenum - 136 (491)
nickel - 0 (1)
manganese - 4 (10)
silver - 0 (0)
titanium - 0 (0)
potassium - 3 (8)
boron - 6 (15)
silicon - 60 (229)
sodium - 7 (7)
calcium - 1805 (1981)
magnesium - 11 (11)
phosphorus - 672 (734)
zinc - 825 (916)
barium - 2 (9)
SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 53.6 (52.3)
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 8.36 (7.97)
Flashpoint in 'F - 380 (390)
Fuel % - <0.5 (<0.5)
Antifreeze % - 0.0 (0.0)
Water % - 0.0 (0.0)
Insolubles % - 0.3 (0.3)
MI/HR on car - 6,501mi (2,670mi)
Sample date - 25 July 08 (21 June 08)
Oil added - 0 quarts (0 quarts)
aluminum - 7 (8)
chromium - 0 (0)
iron - 27 (71)
copper - 44 (140)
lead - 5 (12)
tin - 1 (1)
molybdenum - 136 (491)
nickel - 0 (1)
manganese - 4 (10)
silver - 0 (0)
titanium - 0 (0)
potassium - 3 (8)
boron - 6 (15)
silicon - 60 (229)
sodium - 7 (7)
calcium - 1805 (1981)
magnesium - 11 (11)
phosphorus - 672 (734)
zinc - 825 (916)
barium - 2 (9)
SUS Viscosity @ 210'F - 53.6 (52.3)
cSt Viscosity @ 100'C - 8.36 (7.97)
Flashpoint in 'F - 380 (390)
Fuel % - <0.5 (<0.5)
Antifreeze % - 0.0 (0.0)
Water % - 0.0 (0.0)
Insolubles % - 0.3 (0.3)
Enjoy.
I think I need the new ester oil for the TSB...I'll send that in too after it gets miles on it.
#30
Lexus Defector
iTrader: (60)
The oil thing again!
Anyone here suffered engine failure tracable to "bad" oil?
Use the oil you like, keep it fresh and change it and your filters at reasonable intervals. Do the unthinkable and CHECK IT once in a while. If it's dirty sooner than you expected, change it and maybe try another brand.
Easy as that.
There is no "bad" name brand oil. If you see SAE on the container, it's good to go.
BTW, I have my flame suit on so fire away!
Anyone here suffered engine failure tracable to "bad" oil?
Use the oil you like, keep it fresh and change it and your filters at reasonable intervals. Do the unthinkable and CHECK IT once in a while. If it's dirty sooner than you expected, change it and maybe try another brand.
Easy as that.
There is no "bad" name brand oil. If you see SAE on the container, it's good to go.
BTW, I have my flame suit on so fire away!