Review Bell Raceworks rear differential brace
#91
Premier Member
iTrader: (3)
Attempted to install my (finned version) brace this weekend, but ran into a small issue. I see now why they make that welded nut/washer thing. There is a large hole in the subframe, and the welded lock washer fits perfectly in the hole. Then the large chunk of metal is acting as the real washer. Anyway, when I threaded this top bolt/nut just tight enough where the lock washer is unable to come out of that hole (but still loose) I cannot get the lower bolts in. If I loosen the top bolt (keeping it threaded) I can get the lower bolts in, but then the lock washer will not fit in the hole. It is about 1/8 off. The diff would need to come down 1/8" or the subframe would need to go up 1/8".
Here is the subframe hole I am referring to.
Here is what is happening. Imagine the red is the subframe, the black circle is the lock washer and the dotted line is the hunk of metal washer. This is what it should look like:
Here is the closest I could get mine:
Here is the subframe hole I am referring to.
Here is what is happening. Imagine the red is the subframe, the black circle is the lock washer and the dotted line is the hunk of metal washer. This is what it should look like:
Here is the closest I could get mine:
The following 2 users liked this post by Entcee:
Baadnewsburr (02-04-2019),
Bravo at (02-05-2019)
#92
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
Entcee, get the large nut properly in place and tighten the bolt just enough to keep it there. Then you can use a jack to lift the Subframe the 1/8" that you need. Once you have all of the bolts started, tighten them all down while the jack is still in place.
Hope that this helps, as I didn't have this issue when I installed the bracket on my coupe.
Hope that this helps, as I didn't have this issue when I installed the bracket on my coupe.
#93
Premier Member
iTrader: (3)
Entcee, get the large nut properly in place and tighten the bolt just enough to keep it there. Then you can use a jack to lift the Subframe the 1/8" that you need. Once you have all of the bolts started, tighten them all down while the jack is still in place.
Hope that this helps, as I didn't have this issue when I installed the bracket on my coupe.
Hope that this helps, as I didn't have this issue when I installed the bracket on my coupe.
#94
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
^ Maybe......
There was a comment somewhere where someone said that in order to install one of these brackets (not sure if it was the one for the OEM or Aftermarket Diff Cover) that the diff may have to be shifted forward (I'd presume unbolted) to getting the bracket on and then it (diff) is bolted back in place.
On a side note.... are you still on OEM Diff Bushings or Aftermarket? I'm still on OEM.
There was a comment somewhere where someone said that in order to install one of these brackets (not sure if it was the one for the OEM or Aftermarket Diff Cover) that the diff may have to be shifted forward (I'd presume unbolted) to getting the bracket on and then it (diff) is bolted back in place.
On a side note.... are you still on OEM Diff Bushings or Aftermarket? I'm still on OEM.
#96
Registered Member
iTrader: (2)
Well........ other than contacting the Manufacturer, I see two options .....
1- remove some of the material from the upper outside edge of the part of the washer that goes through the subfeam.
2- do as I suggest earlier, by jacking up the subframe.
Another question... or possibility..... could the Z1 bushings be mounted incorrectly?????? IIRC there have been discussions in regards to where a washer goes on top or on the bottom.
1- remove some of the material from the upper outside edge of the part of the washer that goes through the subfeam.
2- do as I suggest earlier, by jacking up the subframe.
Another question... or possibility..... could the Z1 bushings be mounted incorrectly?????? IIRC there have been discussions in regards to where a washer goes on top or on the bottom.
#97
Premier Member
iTrader: (3)
Well........ other than contacting the Manufacturer, I see two options .....
1- remove some of the material from the upper outside edge of the part of the washer that goes through the subfeam.
2- do as I suggest earlier, by jacking up the subframe.
Another question... or possibility..... could the Z1 bushings be mounted incorrectly?????? IIRC there have been discussions in regards to where a washer goes on top or on the bottom.
1- remove some of the material from the upper outside edge of the part of the washer that goes through the subfeam.
2- do as I suggest earlier, by jacking up the subframe.
Another question... or possibility..... could the Z1 bushings be mounted incorrectly?????? IIRC there have been discussions in regards to where a washer goes on top or on the bottom.
Can't rule it out but doubt the collars were installed wrong. Very reputable shop who's done it many times installed them.
Jacking up the sub frame didn't work, unfortunately. I'm just going to elongate the hole in the brace.
Last edited by Entcee; 02-05-2019 at 03:26 PM.
The following users liked this post:
PNW_IPL (12-06-2019)
#102
Premier Member
iTrader: (3)
To compare, I lined up the braces by the top of the brace. The top blue line shows the top hole lines up perfectly. Move down to the lower hole, and the lower blue line shows that hole is off about 1/8"
Or if you do want to look at the tape measures, both lower holes line up with 2 7/8" on their tape measures. Since the right tape measure is 1/8 lower, we can assume that the right hole is also 1/8" lower.
Bell Raceworks thinks the bend in the brace may not have been bent enough. Sounds like it could be it. I will know once the new one comes in.
Last edited by Entcee; 02-05-2019 at 03:30 PM.
#103
You are seeing correctly, but you should not concentrate on where the tape measures are, but rather what they are measuring. They are there so you can see that both pictures are sized the same. 3" measures the same in both pictures. The red lines are there to show this. You can see the red lines go through 1" and 4"on the right, and 1 1/8" and 4 1/8" on the left. That 3 inches exactly for both pictures. We now know the picture represents 2 braces that are the same size so we can now compare them.
To compare, I lined up the braces by the top of the brace. The top blue line shows the top hole lines up perfectly. Move down to the lower hole, and the lower blue line shows that hole is off about 1/8"
Or if you do want to look at the tape measures, both lower holes line up with 2 7/8" on their tape measures. Since the right tape measure is 1/8 lower, we can assume that the right hole is also 1/8" lower.
Bell Raceworks thinks the bend in the brace may not have been bent enough. Sounds like it could be it. I will know once the new one comes in.
To compare, I lined up the braces by the top of the brace. The top blue line shows the top hole lines up perfectly. Move down to the lower hole, and the lower blue line shows that hole is off about 1/8"
Or if you do want to look at the tape measures, both lower holes line up with 2 7/8" on their tape measures. Since the right tape measure is 1/8 lower, we can assume that the right hole is also 1/8" lower.
Bell Raceworks thinks the bend in the brace may not have been bent enough. Sounds like it could be it. I will know once the new one comes in.
The following users liked this post:
jpowersjr2 (02-06-2019)