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DIY: VQ37VHR timing chain marks
Hello everyone, I put this together to help others out when doing timing in these engines. As great as this engine is, internally it has some life-threatening issues that will decrease it longevity if not addressed.
These are in the timing chain area: Gallery gasket, Chain tensioners and guides Note: Most will adopt the mentality of marking the removal and repeat the install and this is a great idea. Unfortunantely this wont work for all. Turning the engine until all marks are aligned can be a waste of time due to the many times it might require and removal and resetting might just be the easiest. Here are some simple picture explicit ways of how to double check your work. You can start by aligning the damper with this timing mark in the cover, if doubtful about the crank cog you can use the this method as confirmationn https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...24fabd6c73.jpg Once timing cover is loosened and removed you'll be left with this view. As you all can see my gasket has broken. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...3f743498d3.jpg Then after everything comes off https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...fba0967fca.jpg To make sure your cams are aligned the pin need will align with the indentation in the cam girdle like so: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...f018f90b73.jpg I learned that even that it had 120k miles this had happened: I had no suspicion of this nor heard any noise. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...01c74f1c0a.jpg This job can be expensive to do. How expensive is entirely up to you. to fix these the proper way OEM tensioners are a $120 + option that requires the removal of the camshafts girdle and removal of the VVEL Eccentric shaft that I had no interest in doing. With the VQ40 nissan sells replacement cam shoes but not for the VQ37 . The plunger part of the tensioner does not go bad so soon. The plunger/Shoe from a VQ35 DE is the same part and can interchange. These parts are $27 for the pair. The shoe appears to be made from the same material of the OEM one so I'll check it again in 100k miles https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...9a38e4f2a9.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...abd3eced3d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b6383ed09f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b89fc38f59.jpg I painted the marks and between the FSM and other pictures I was able to find I confirmed. Final result was the start. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...003247e0f6.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...8b06585b32.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...41d5a9dca3.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...73d2b78fec.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c035c15a8f.jpg Remember: Circle dots are for Bank 1 Oval dots are for Bank 2 These you will align with the two orange links on the cam chain, the single chain link with meet the oval mark on the VTC for bank 2 and circle on the VTC for bank 1 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5507f63a61.jpg There are 3 ways to verify the crank, with the Damper like the first pic showed, aligning the crank tooth with the mark on the pump and with the chain's orange link and the mark at 5 o clock on the cog. Make sure you leave NO tension on the untensioned sides of the chain as any looseness can alter timing. The last tension you should pull the pin from is the main cam, check tension and if it's too loose use a bar to click the tensioner over one click Mods: please determine place for this thread and if it was needed. Thought there is a bit of documented processes I feel like pictures help a ton more. |
Bull, I was wondering where you got those piston/shoe's for the secondary tensioners? I have googled quite a bit, but just come up with the other style.
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Thanks, I did see that and noticed the price match what you said, great minds think alike I guess;) I wasn't sure if Nissan had a part or not, but I will use these though and thanks for the wrote up it was very useful. Have you put a lot of miles on the new shoes? I'm curious if one could swap the shoe over to the old plunger, but I'll check them out when they get here.
Ed |
I thought about that also but the plastic shoe is not removable from the plunger.
however the whole plunger with shoe slides right in the VHR tensioner body. I've put 16,000 since. No tensioner related issues nor chain rattle. |
Timing confusion.
Originally Posted by BULL
(Post 4263389)
Hello everyone, I put this together to help others out when doing timing in these engines. As great as this engine is, internally it has some life-threatening issues that will decrease it longevity if not addressed.
These are in the timing chain area: Gallery gasket, Chain tensioners and guides Note: Most will adopt the mentality of marking the removal and repeat the install and this is a great idea. Unfortunantely this wont work for all. Turning the engine until all marks are aligned can be a waste of time due to the many times it might require and removal and resetting might just be the easiest. Here are some simple picture explicit ways of how to double check your work. You can start by aligning the damper with this timing mark in the cover, if doubtful about the crank cog you can use the this method as confirmationn https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...24fabd6c73.jpg Once timing cover is loosened and removed you'll be left with this view. As you all can see my gasket has broken. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...3f743498d3.jpg Then after everything comes off https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...fba0967fca.jpg To make sure your cams are aligned the pin need will align with the indentation in the cam girdle like so: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...f018f90b73.jpg I learned that even that it had 120k miles this had happened: I had no suspicion of this nor heard any noise. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...01c74f1c0a.jpg This job can be expensive to do. How expensive is entirely up to you. to fix these the proper way OEM tensioners are a $120 + option that requires the removal of the camshafts girdle and removal of the VVEL Eccentric shaft that I had no interest in doing. With the VQ40 nissan sells replacement cam shoes but not for the VQ37 . The plunger part of the tensioner does not go bad so soon. The plunger/Shoe from a VQ35 DE is the same part and can interchange. These parts are $27 for the pair. The shoe appears to be made from the same material of the OEM one so I'll check it again in 100k miles https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...9a38e4f2a9.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...abd3eced3d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b6383ed09f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b89fc38f59.jpg I painted the marks and between the FSM and other pictures I was able to find I confirmed. Final result was the start. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...003247e0f6.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...8b06585b32.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...41d5a9dca3.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...73d2b78fec.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c035c15a8f.jpg Remember: Circle dots are for Bank 1 Oval dots are for Bank 2 These you will align with the two orange links on the cam chain, the single chain link with meet the oval mark on the VTC for bank 2 and circle on the VTC for bank 1 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5507f63a61.jpg There are 3 ways to verify the crank, with the Damper like the first pic showed, aligning the crank tooth with the mark on the pump and with the chain's orange link and the mark at 5 o clock on the cog. Make sure you leave NO tension on the untensioned sides of the chain as any looseness can alter timing. The last tension you should pull the pin from is the main cam, check tension and if it's too loose use a bar to click the tensioner over one click Mods: please determine place for this thread and if it was needed. Thought there is a bit of documented processes I feel like pictures help a ton more. |
Timing confusion.
Originally Posted by BULL
(Post 4263389)
Hello everyone, I put this together to help others out when doing timing in these engines. As great as this engine is, internally it has some life-threatening issues that will decrease it longevity if not addressed.
These are in the timing chain area: Gallery gasket, Chain tensioners and guides Note: Most will adopt the mentality of marking the removal and repeat the install and this is a great idea. Unfortunantely this wont work for all. Turning the engine until all marks are aligned can be a waste of time due to the many times it might require and removal and resetting might just be the easiest. Here are some simple picture explicit ways of how to double check your work. You can start by aligning the damper with this timing mark in the cover, if doubtful about the crank cog you can use the this method as confirmationn https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...24fabd6c73.jpg Once timing cover is loosened and removed you'll be left with this view. As you all can see my gasket has broken. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...3f743498d3.jpg Then after everything comes off https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...fba0967fca.jpg To make sure your cams are aligned the pin need will align with the indentation in the cam girdle like so: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...f018f90b73.jpg I learned that even that it had 120k miles this had happened: I had no suspicion of this nor heard any noise. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...01c74f1c0a.jpg This job can be expensive to do. How expensive is entirely up to you. to fix these the proper way OEM tensioners are a $120 + option that requires the removal of the camshafts girdle and removal of the VVEL Eccentric shaft that I had no interest in doing. With the VQ40 nissan sells replacement cam shoes but not for the VQ37 . The plunger part of the tensioner does not go bad so soon. The plunger/Shoe from a VQ35 DE is the same part and can interchange. These parts are $27 for the pair. The shoe appears to be made from the same material of the OEM one so I'll check it again in 100k miles https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...9a38e4f2a9.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...abd3eced3d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b6383ed09f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b89fc38f59.jpg I painted the marks and between the FSM and other pictures I was able to find I confirmed. Final result was the start. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...003247e0f6.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...8b06585b32.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...41d5a9dca3.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...73d2b78fec.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c035c15a8f.jpg Remember: Circle dots are for Bank 1 Oval dots are for Bank 2 These you will align with the two orange links on the cam chain, the single chain link with meet the oval mark on the VTC for bank 2 and circle on the VTC for bank 1 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5507f63a61.jpg There are 3 ways to verify the crank, with the Damper like the first pic showed, aligning the crank tooth with the mark on the pump and with the chain's orange link and the mark at 5 o clock on the cog. Make sure you leave NO tension on the untensioned sides of the chain as any looseness can alter timing. The last tension you should pull the pin from is the main cam, check tension and if it's too loose use a bar to click the tensioner over one click Mods: please determine place for this thread and if it was needed. Thought there is a bit of documented processes I feel like pictures help a ton more. |
Could you post a picture of what you mean?
|
Reset
Originally Posted by BULL
(Post 4263389)
Hello everyone, I put this together to help others out when doing timing in these engines. As great as this engine is, internally it has some life-threatening issues that will decrease it longevity if not addressed.
These are in the timing chain area: Gallery gasket, Chain tensioners and guides Note: Most will adopt the mentality of marking the removal and repeat the install and this is a great idea. Unfortunantely this wont work for all. Turning the engine until all marks are aligned can be a waste of time due to the many times it might require and removal and resetting might just be the easiest. Here are some simple picture explicit ways of how to double check your work. You can start by aligning the damper with this timing mark in the cover, if doubtful about the crank cog you can use the this method as confirmationn https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...24fabd6c73.jpg Once timing cover is loosened and removed you'll be left with this view. As you all can see my gasket has broken. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...3f743498d3.jpg Then after everything comes off https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...fba0967fca.jpg To make sure your cams are aligned the pin need will align with the indentation in the cam girdle like so: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...f018f90b73.jpg I learned that even that it had 120k miles this had happened: I had no suspicion of this nor heard any noise. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...01c74f1c0a.jpg This job can be expensive to do. How expensive is entirely up to you. to fix these the proper way OEM tensioners are a $120 + option that requires the removal of the camshafts girdle and removal of the VVEL Eccentric shaft that I had no interest in doing. With the VQ40 nissan sells replacement cam shoes but not for the VQ37 . The plunger part of the tensioner does not go bad so soon. The plunger/Shoe from a VQ35 DE is the same part and can interchange. These parts are $27 for the pair. The shoe appears to be made from the same material of the OEM one so I'll check it again in 100k miles https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...9a38e4f2a9.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...abd3eced3d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b6383ed09f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...b89fc38f59.jpg I painted the marks and between the FSM and other pictures I was able to find I confirmed. Final result was the start. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...003247e0f6.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...8b06585b32.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...41d5a9dca3.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...73d2b78fec.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c035c15a8f.jpg Remember: Circle dots are for Bank 1 Oval dots are for Bank 2 These you will align with the two orange links on the cam chain, the single chain link with meet the oval mark on the VTC for bank 2 and circle on the VTC for bank 1 https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5507f63a61.jpg There are 3 ways to verify the crank, with the Damper like the first pic showed, aligning the crank tooth with the mark on the pump and with the chain's orange link and the mark at 5 o clock on the cog. Make sure you leave NO tension on the untensioned sides of the chain as any looseness can alter timing. The last tension you should pull the pin from is the main cam, check tension and if it's too loose use a bar to click the tensioner over one click Mods: please determine place for this thread and if it was needed. Thought there is a bit of documented processes I feel like pictures help a ton more. can you reset timing? All marks don’t line up. Can I remove everything and line them up? I got a 2010 g37 and needing to change my water pump. I kept cranking several rounds and they just don’t line up. |
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