RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

First DIY post so may need some tweaking. Not sure how to get the pictures to post into the thread itself so links attached but the pictures are in chronological order. I'll break up the post so one doesn't have to scroll a mile to view pics if they are using this. I wanted to put this up here since it seemed like a lot of members, from past and present, were asking about the hyper blink that occurs when installing LED replacements. There is a lot of information floating around out there regarding this and it all kind of jumbles together throughout multiple threads in terms of which wires to use but without accompanying pictures; you know, because pictures give us comfort (me at least). This was a great mod that makes the front of the car much more appealing without dropping over $200 for a set of LEDs (Tritons). All in all, this took me about 1-1.5 hours with trying to get pictures and trying out all the possibilities scattered around online. I used the Diode Dynamics LEDs and like previously state, I am very pleased with the outcome. As you can see, they are very bright and blend in well with the stock headlights. It's worth noting, this was done on my 2012 Sedan so I'm unsure if this applies to coupe owners but someone else can chime in regarding that.

Parts:

HP3 (56 Lumens) 6000k

Switchback HP 24 City Lights (410 Lumens) 6000k

6 OHM Resistor kit (x2)

Tools:

Electrical tape

Screwdriver

10mm socket wrench - extension optional

Wire cutters (****s)

Pliers

Zip ties (optional)


START:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486039181


CITY LIGHTS:

I'll make this short and sweet since there's quite a few DIY on this and it takes all of 15 minutes max.

Start your car and cut the wheel either hard left or hard right. Then go to the wheel well and remove the plastic push pin.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486039369


Pull the plastic wheel well liner away from the bumper. Takes a little work put don't be afraid to get into it a little bit.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486039475


The bulb housing below is the one you want to find. Just give it a counter clockwise twist and will pop out.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486039566

Pull out the OEM amber bulb and replace with your LED replacement. The bulb might not seem like it will fit, or at least that was my case, but with some added pressure it will snap right in. If this happens to you - do not get carried away...

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486040128

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486039767

Picture of both in with amber city lights for comparison. The blue is a little exaggerated for some reason. They have the blue "twinkle" in person but not as prominent as pictures suggest.


TURN SIGNALS:

I'm just going to explain how to do one side since doing both is a little redundant but if anyone has a question feel free to ask. Start by removing the airbox. It is secured by one 10mm bolt, Clip securing MAF sensor to the box and the intake ring. After that, just pull up and rotate out of your way. BE CAREFUL WITH THE MAF.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486040241

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486040241

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486040392

Next locate the City light bulb housing. It can be distinguished by the three wires exiting the back and the white housing. You may have to lean over into the bay a bit to see it. Just like the city lights

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486040464

Pop out the OEM amber and replace with the LED replacement.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486040852


Here is a picture of what it looks like installed and turned on without signalling.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486041093

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

Here is a video of the Hyper blinking on my car. Wanted to show that the problem did in fact exist in my situation; and what I did in order to remedy it.

Side note* I know some people have mentioned "living with" the blinking but I'd run my car into a telephone pole if I had to deal with that blinking for more than 10 minutes.

HYPER BLINKING:

https://youtu.be/hEf6xP4kh4c

THE FIX:

I'm going to backtrack to the point where we install the new bulb. If you look at the back of the housing you see three wires: Green/White, Green/Black, and White/Black.

You want: GREEN/BLACK & WHITE/BLACK

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486042361

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486042361

Take your red connector, provided by DD, and spread it open just a bit. You can use your flat head by sticking it in and twisting sideways. This helps the wire slide in. You will notice, on the connector / splicer you can see two openings. One you can see all the way through and the other one is capped off; so you can't see all the way through. Your head light wire goes into the opening you can see all the way through while the red resistor wire goes into the capped opening.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486042538

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486042538

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486042538

Next, take one end of your resistor and slide it ALL the way in until you hit the capped end.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486042538

This is where most people snap the resistor shut and call it a day. Truth is, this is NOT enough for the metal splicer to cut through the wire's coat. There were multiple posts I read that stated the blinking was still occurring even with the resistors. There is a strong likelihood that they did not cut the splicer through the coating. I actually did this the first time and then went back and used my pliers to seat the splicer flat. Pictures below.

This is after my first attempt where I just snapped the cap shut. You can clearly see, despite the blurriness, that the splicer only moved on the end where the snap shuts.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486043093

With pliers and how it SHOULD look:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486043272

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486043272

Now, just do the exact same to the other wire in the assembly. Repeat on both sides. Here is a picture of the set up when put together:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486043396

Picture with both replacements installed.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486043564

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486043564

https://www.myg37.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1486043564

And, the video:

https://youtu.be/8julqtF1c4U

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

Hopefully this is of some use. There's a bit of information out there and if you search enough you can find the answers scattered but the pictures were not exactly available for this like the turn as tail mod (which I obviously haven't done yet). I wanted to centralize all the info and provide pictures for our car specifically; along with what I believe could have been a common issue with the splice connectors.

Apologies for the shaky videos....dinner was ready.

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

Making a note for anyone who uses this.

Be careful where you place the resistors. They run extremely hot and will melt any plastic components they touch.

13BlackG

Did my turn signals using this DIY. Thanks!

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

Glad it was of good use

MoG37

This helped me so much. I was looking through every thread related to hyper blink and couldn't figure out which wires to connect the resistors too. I just put them on and the hyper blink has stopped when the lights are completely off, and when i switch to auto. When i turn past that and the other lights comes on, the hyper blink returns. Im gonna check my connections and make sure everything is solid as far as the splices touching the metal for the resistors but it made me wonder. I have the tail as turn mod from DD as well, and i wonder if that is causing the hyper blink now. Has anyone had any experience with this? Do i need to put resistors on the tail lights as well?

RMB5190

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I believe you need another set of resistors for the rear. I have LED amber turn signals installed and had to add additional resistors to get the hyper link to go away for the second time.

Here are the ones I used: