DIY: Brake Boost Momentary Switch (Brake Stand Burnouts)
05-23-2016, 07:46 PM
#33
Brake Boost Momentary Switch (Brake Stand Burnouts)
Please keep in mind this is not my final set up. This is a temp solution for my car.
I took apart an old tread mill and it just so happened to have an on off switch. Anyway I incorporated that into my quick wire job. All brake lights work as they should. And idk if I am supposed to or not, but no lights or notifications on the dash when the switch is off.
Now the embarrassing part.... I am a 6 speed and for the life of me, i cannot get the car to do a stand burnout. I keep stalling the car or burning the clutch. Any advise? Of course I know the obvious. Needs a new driver mod! Could it be my 285s?
I took apart an old tread mill and it just so happened to have an on off switch. Anyway I incorporated that into my quick wire job. All brake lights work as they should. And idk if I am supposed to or not, but no lights or notifications on the dash when the switch is off.
Now the embarrassing part.... I am a 6 speed and for the life of me, i cannot get the car to do a stand burnout. I keep stalling the car or burning the clutch. Any advise? Of course I know the obvious. Needs a new driver mod! Could it be my 285s?
05-24-2016, 01:32 AM
#34
Please keep in mind this is not my final set up. This is a temp solution for my car.
I took apart an old tread mill and it just so happened to have an on off switch. Anyway I incorporated that into my quick wire job. All brake lights work as they should. And idk if I am supposed to or not, but no lights or notifications on the dash when the switch is off.
Now the embarrassing part.... I am a 6 speed and for the life of me, i cannot get the car to do a stand burnout. I keep stalling the car or burning the clutch. Any advise? Of course I know the obvious. Needs a new driver mod! Could it be my 285s?
I took apart an old tread mill and it just so happened to have an on off switch. Anyway I incorporated that into my quick wire job. All brake lights work as they should. And idk if I am supposed to or not, but no lights or notifications on the dash when the switch is off.
Now the embarrassing part.... I am a 6 speed and for the life of me, i cannot get the car to do a stand burnout. I keep stalling the car or burning the clutch. Any advise? Of course I know the obvious. Needs a new driver mod! Could it be my 285s?
08-28-2016, 02:39 PM
#41
Ok guys, I need a hand figuring this one out. Not with the process of adding this switch, that is pretty straight forward but more so with the fact if this is actually going to allow me to do this or not.
I know that there are people having success with this working for them and there are also a couple I have noticed in other areas of the forum that it does not work for. Since this is supposed to be the same as puling the stop light fuse but keeps the functionality of the lights themselves, I went ahead and just pulled the fuse first to test it out (after going to the supply shop to get all the material required for this first.. lol). Upon trying this first to test out if it would work for me or not I discovered that my car will not allow me to rev past 1900 still before bogging down so I went one step further and pulled the VDC/ABS fuse under the hood by the battery thinking that would help solve the problem (and help mimic disabling the yaw sensor if I am not mistaken.. if I am please correct me). So still no luck being able to do a standing burnout or even just a brake boost
So I'm confused as to why this is not working for me and wondering if adding the switches for brake and yaw sensor are even worth it for me at this point? And would it have anything to do with the year or model that I have? It's a 2012 IPL 7AT and I've noticed that most people this is working for are mostly earlier models. Can someone please enlighten me on my situation and help me get ready to track this thing?
**UPDATE**
Well after a little more digging I found the solution. I found this post which helped me to figure it out.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...launching.html
It would seem that the stop light fuse was not what allows the standing burnouts. I pulled the 4 pin connector at the top of the brake pedal and "hallelujah" problem solved!! So this leads me to believe that the pink wire going into the fuse panel simply goes to the pedal sensor which is why the brake lights still work and this really has nothing to do with the stop light fuse.
Now I'm off to finish installing the switches. Thanks for all the write ups guys and making this forum a pleasure to be a part of. Everyone seems to be so awesome with sharing info and helping others! Check ya later peeps!
I know that there are people having success with this working for them and there are also a couple I have noticed in other areas of the forum that it does not work for. Since this is supposed to be the same as puling the stop light fuse but keeps the functionality of the lights themselves, I went ahead and just pulled the fuse first to test it out (after going to the supply shop to get all the material required for this first.. lol). Upon trying this first to test out if it would work for me or not I discovered that my car will not allow me to rev past 1900 still before bogging down so I went one step further and pulled the VDC/ABS fuse under the hood by the battery thinking that would help solve the problem (and help mimic disabling the yaw sensor if I am not mistaken.. if I am please correct me). So still no luck being able to do a standing burnout or even just a brake boost
So I'm confused as to why this is not working for me and wondering if adding the switches for brake and yaw sensor are even worth it for me at this point? And would it have anything to do with the year or model that I have? It's a 2012 IPL 7AT and I've noticed that most people this is working for are mostly earlier models. Can someone please enlighten me on my situation and help me get ready to track this thing?
**UPDATE**
Well after a little more digging I found the solution. I found this post which helped me to figure it out.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...launching.html
It would seem that the stop light fuse was not what allows the standing burnouts. I pulled the 4 pin connector at the top of the brake pedal and "hallelujah" problem solved!! So this leads me to believe that the pink wire going into the fuse panel simply goes to the pedal sensor which is why the brake lights still work and this really has nothing to do with the stop light fuse.
Now I'm off to finish installing the switches. Thanks for all the write ups guys and making this forum a pleasure to be a part of. Everyone seems to be so awesome with sharing info and helping others! Check ya later peeps!
Last edited by BHunts; 08-28-2016 at 04:37 PM. Reason: Solved my problem
08-29-2016, 08:40 AM
#43
Ok guys, I need a hand figuring this one out. Not with the process of adding this switch, that is pretty straight forward but more so with the fact if this is actually going to allow me to do this or not.
I know that there are people having success with this working for them and there are also a couple I have noticed in other areas of the forum that it does not work for. Since this is supposed to be the same as puling the stop light fuse but keeps the functionality of the lights themselves, I went ahead and just pulled the fuse first to test it out (after going to the supply shop to get all the material required for this first.. lol). Upon trying this first to test out if it would work for me or not I discovered that my car will not allow me to rev past 1900 still before bogging down so I went one step further and pulled the VDC/ABS fuse under the hood by the battery thinking that would help solve the problem (and help mimic disabling the yaw sensor if I am not mistaken.. if I am please correct me). So still no luck being able to do a standing burnout or even just a brake boost
So I'm confused as to why this is not working for me and wondering if adding the switches for brake and yaw sensor are even worth it for me at this point? And would it have anything to do with the year or model that I have? It's a 2012 IPL 7AT and I've noticed that most people this is working for are mostly earlier models. Can someone please enlighten me on my situation and help me get ready to track this thing?
**UPDATE**
Well after a little more digging I found the solution. I found this post which helped me to figure it out.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...launching.html
It would seem that the stop light fuse was not what allows the standing burnouts. I pulled the 4 pin connector at the top of the brake pedal and "hallelujah" problem solved!! So this leads me to believe that the pink wire going into the fuse panel simply goes to the pedal sensor which is why the brake lights still work and this really has nothing to do with the stop light fuse.
Now I'm off to finish installing the switches. Thanks for all the write ups guys and making this forum a pleasure to be a part of. Everyone seems to be so awesome with sharing info and helping others! Check ya later peeps!
I know that there are people having success with this working for them and there are also a couple I have noticed in other areas of the forum that it does not work for. Since this is supposed to be the same as puling the stop light fuse but keeps the functionality of the lights themselves, I went ahead and just pulled the fuse first to test it out (after going to the supply shop to get all the material required for this first.. lol). Upon trying this first to test out if it would work for me or not I discovered that my car will not allow me to rev past 1900 still before bogging down so I went one step further and pulled the VDC/ABS fuse under the hood by the battery thinking that would help solve the problem (and help mimic disabling the yaw sensor if I am not mistaken.. if I am please correct me). So still no luck being able to do a standing burnout or even just a brake boost
So I'm confused as to why this is not working for me and wondering if adding the switches for brake and yaw sensor are even worth it for me at this point? And would it have anything to do with the year or model that I have? It's a 2012 IPL 7AT and I've noticed that most people this is working for are mostly earlier models. Can someone please enlighten me on my situation and help me get ready to track this thing?
**UPDATE**
Well after a little more digging I found the solution. I found this post which helped me to figure it out.
https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...launching.html
It would seem that the stop light fuse was not what allows the standing burnouts. I pulled the 4 pin connector at the top of the brake pedal and "hallelujah" problem solved!! So this leads me to believe that the pink wire going into the fuse panel simply goes to the pedal sensor which is why the brake lights still work and this really has nothing to do with the stop light fuse.
Now I'm off to finish installing the switches. Thanks for all the write ups guys and making this forum a pleasure to be a part of. Everyone seems to be so awesome with sharing info and helping others! Check ya later peeps!
Good update, there are probably differences in model years because it seems hit or miss for people. Digging through wiring diagrams and other people accounts is confusing so I wrote this up to try and help out.
