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DIY Beltronics/Escort Hardwire Installation
I spent some of my Christmas day installing a hard wire for my Beltronics RX65. I couldn't stand the telephone dangle coming from the accessory port, so this was absolutely necessary.
I know many are thinking "Just get the MirrorTap". Easiest way, YES, but not the most practical for me since I love the convenience of the mute button being right next to the shifter. I didn't see a specific guide for our cars, so here it is. I would assume it is a very similar process for the sedan and convertible. Total time: about 45 min and this is combatting with rain, and not having all the tools before starting :dunno: Materials for installation: - Escort Direct Wire SmartCord (Escort Direct Wire SmartCord (Blue display) Hardwire kit for most Escort windshield radar detectors at Crutchfield.com) - ATMLPDT Dual Add A Fuse essentially a low profile ATM circuit. This is essential because of clearance issues in the fuse box where the radio fuse is. (InstallBay ATMLPDT Dual Add A Fuse Add a circuit to your vehicle's fuse box at Crutchfield.com) - Strippers/Crimpers - Flathead Screwdriver or some soft tipped blunt object (preferably plastic). - Wrench (quick wrench prefered) Procedure: Remove the kick panel and side trim for access to fuse without cover. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...0d0df23e7e.jpg Run the mute button under the steering wheel and tuck under trim to run to desired location. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...4ff9b34ba5.jpg creep face. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...6fe1f90319.jpg Once there, you tuck it between the door and the dash. It hides away pretty easily in there. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...67868c9a77.jpg I did the running of the wire in the pillar without removing it. You can remove it if you like, but I didn't feel like it. You can simply tuck it into the black trim lining (for lack of better terms), with a screw driver. Pretty much work the cord in. It is pretty easy after you get going. Then use a flathead to work it in at the top. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c5611edb43.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...0997118402.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c328574ef6.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...669fe4d229.jpg From here, you force/work the cord into the roof liner. No need for removal, since the edges of the liner already have a gap in them somewhat. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...2c078d2438.jpg Run that all the way to where the mirror comes down. There is a little void in the liner that fits the wire PERFECTLY. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...a75b0faafd.jpg Now you may or may not have a little bit of slack - that's alright. You can adjust: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...bd53064fc9.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...0c26abf603.jpg From here, you can pull where you left the cord out at the corner of the windshield to remove the slack. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...e3126403aa.jpg Pull the wire across to get the slack. You may or may not have to retuck the wire inside the roofliner. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...a4d6c91fff.jpg From there, finally tuck the wire into the pillar to hideaway. There is a factory ground point by the foot rest. Use a quick wrench (your friend) to remove. The styrofoam can be moved slightly for clearance. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...3a2cbf3943.jpg Retighten very well. From here, cut off the spade connector of the power wire (the black and red wire) and strip to expose about 3 cm of wire. Fold over, insert into connector, and crimp tightly. Your final connections should look like this. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...f1a778a066.jpg Keep the factory amp fuse to the radio tap. And add another one to the radar detector circuit. Push to ACC position in car to make sure the radar detector is live when on, and dead when off. Almost done - just cleanup. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...1bef18812d.jpg This may go without saying, but run the wires up, so they fall over the top of the kick panel. This will hold the wires up under the steering wheel. Notice the tight fit of the add a circuit. If not the low profile selected (LP), you may run into issues. reapply the other removed trim. Place the provided velcro, and apply it to your mute and position accordingly. FINAL RESULTS :8: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...9548dee18e.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...8158e17c00.jpg Helluvalot cleaner than the telephone cord. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...d3505a33d5.jpg :coolio: I hope this helps some people. :BOUNCE: |
Looks great! I'm dreading the install of my 9500ci. Really don't want to remove both bumpers and run wire through the firewall. Oh well.
This has helped me. I now know where to tap into for a fuse that has constant power! |
Thanks for the write up. I am going to put this thread in the DIY section
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That side pillar is realllllly easy to remove with a flat head on the top. itll pop right out, making running the wire real easy. Also, I ran the wire down to the fusebox, I went through the side panel door that is exposed when the door opens all the way up. That simply comes off too and then you can run the wire down to the fusebox.
I've installed a dash cam up front, in the back, and my Valentine 1 via wiring to the fusebox |
Originally Posted by freshgeardude
(Post 3982934)
That side pillar is realllllly easy to remove with a flat head on the top. itll pop right out, making running the wire real easy. Also, I ran the wire down to the fusebox, I went through the side panel door that is exposed when the door opens all the way up. That simply comes off too and then you can run the wire down to the fusebox.
I've installed a dash cam up front, in the back, and my Valentine 1 via wiring to the fusebox |
I was looking at this thread as I want to hardwire a dash cam and run the cable the same way you did (from rearview to fuse box).
The A pillar is a bit hard to remove, but I'm wondering if just tucking the wires in on the top of the A pillar like you did, would interfere a little bit w/ the airbag? It looks like it might judging, from IIHS vid on G sedan. Thoughts? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...0040a0c6cc.jpg |
So there is about 3-4" of airbag by the top of the A pillar. In order to have room to run wires, you need to pull the black strip out. Then you need to pull the A pillar and pop out the metal clip in order to be able to get the wiring far from the airbag, where I felt OK about leaving it.
Hope this helps some1 out in the future. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...fc7fe3b79f.jpg |
DIY Beltronics/Escort Hardwire Installation
I admire you for being very caution around the airbag. However, if (and we hope it never happens) it should actually deploy, that wire will not interfere at all. I, for a fraction of a second, thought about that when hardwiring mine to the fuse box. I ran my wire up and around the headliner and down the a-pillar. I left so much slack in wire towards the base near the fuse box. If the airbag should ever deploy, the wire and radar detector will probably be one of the few things unharmed
Oh....and I just pushed the wires in a smidge until they were hidden. Didn't unclip the a-pillar |
Best DIY I've seen in a long time. Most assume too much knowledge
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Originally Posted by j50ny
(Post 4053477)
I admire you for being very caution around the airbag. However, if (and we hope it never happens) it should actually deploy, that wire will not interfere at all. I, for a fraction of a second, thought about that when hardwiring mine to the fuse box. I ran my wire up and around the headliner and down the a-pillar. I left so much slack in wire towards the base near the fuse box. If the airbag should ever deploy, the wire and radar detector will probably be one of the few things unharmed
Oh....and I just pushed the wires in a smidge until they were hidden. Didn't unclip the a-pillar |
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