MrJCole13

iTrader: (9)

I am going to try and tackle this myself. My new Rotors came in last night so I called a few brake shops and most wouldnt do the work with customer supplied parts but one would but he wanted 425.00 to do everything, pads, rotors and lines.

I am not worried about the pads and rotors, I am just nervous about the lines. Ill watch all the videos on youtube and read everything here before I start.

Any tools you guys think I will need specifically for this job that isnt in the typical garage. I like to think I have a lot but I know there may be some more uncommon tools for this job. Anything you can think of? Thanks again

Black Betty

iTrader: (60)

Use a flare nut wrench on the brake line fittings and bleeder nipples to avoid rounding them off. You do NOT want that. The reason being that they are soft and round off relatively easy. Don't over tighten them either, just tight enough to hold securely.

I'm not sure of the size you'll need, but it's either 8, 10, or 12 mm. I can't remember. You can put a regular wrench on there to get the right size to buy.

Since you are replacing the lines, buy plenty of brake fluid to flush out all of the air you are going to introduce into the system. I'd buy about 6 quarts if it were me, just to make sure I don't have to make another trip back to the store. While you're there I suggest buying a bottle of synthetic brake grease. Use it liberally on the pad shims, pins, clips, and piston heads to prevent noises. The little packets you buy aren't really enough. Bleed them in the correct order (RR, FL, RL, FR).

Good luck!

dtran2714

iTrader: (6)

Let us know how it goes. I plan on replacing pads and rotors in a few months.

Ontario G37S

iTrader: (12)

I did my brakes, lines and bleed last year. The only part that got me stuck for a bit was the rear rotors as they were stubborn to come off the hub even after adjusting the parking brake.

Hopefully you wont have the same issue, but if you do, I found this video very helpful to get them off. I know they mention 1/2" bolt, but if I remember correctly, I had to go down one size for our G and you can only get one nut on the bolt (the bolt rests on the rotor, not the nut as per the video).

GoFightNguyen

iTrader: (14)

I've been watching a few videos in preparation for doing a full brake job. Some of the videos have the guys using a special hub cleaner for cleaning up any debris or rust from the hub mating surface, they're also measuring the rotor runout. Do you guys recommend doing that, or is it something I can probably get away with?

twin_snails

iTrader: (2)

When I did mine, the rotors were a little bit difficult to get off. I would recommend using PB Blast or WD-40. A rubber mallet hammer also is helpful for knocking the old rotors loose. I used a dremel tool with a gentle wire brush to clean off any rust on the hub and mounting surface which worked well. I didn't do the runout test as I was installing brand new rotors. They were the RacingBrake 2-piece. The rears were a major pain to cut the dust shield.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

A thin film of synthetic grease on hub where the rotor rides should help with rust in the future.

twin_snails

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for that tip Jsolo! I hadn't even thought about doing that but that is the perfect solution to the rust problem.

Dough1397

Would using synthetic brake grease/lube work for this? Or maybe some anti-seize?

I am getting ready to do this. Getting these rotors off seems like it may be a challenge.

monytx

iTrader: (2)

Honestly man, it's not that hard. I followed this video on youtube:


The guy was very detailed and his camera angle helps out a lot. I did take it to a shop however to do the brake flush. I needed to change the fluid anyways. Like every other DIY, it was such a mmppph when you get it done yourself. Like F*** yeah I just did that.

monytx

iTrader: (2)

Let me know what day you plan on doing it, I'll come by and help you out, if you like. Check out the vid I posted just now.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Regarding the grease film on the hub; I just used whatever I had on hand on the last car. IIRC, it was synthetic wheel bearing grease. All you're trying to do is provide a barrier between the two surfaces to keep rust from forming.