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Doused the bushings with that Krown lube... no change. So either the bushings aren't the source of this groaning noise, or this lube wasn't effective. I'm afraid the next step is to let my mechanic look at the situation. And we all know how mechanics just love to be tasked with finding a mystery noise. (Sarcasm)
[edit] not the bushings. It's the passenger rear damper that's groaning.
Has anyone tried to do this install without removing axles? It seems very doable because once you get the drive shaft off, you can slide the diff forward with a jack and lower it just enough to where it doesn't rip off the boots, but gives you enough room to remove the old bushings and install the new ones.
Just trying to save a couple of hours.
Someone who has done this please tell me why this is not doable before I try it.
You need to drop the pumpkin to get to the side bushings.
It's 6 bolts per axle which takes 10 mins max. You save yourself the risk of stressing and damaging the axles. Axles are not cheap. It's up to you and how much your time is worth.
Originally Posted by Chief_McGrass
I'm installing these tomorrow.
Has anyone tried to do this install without removing axles? It seems very doable because once you get the drive shaft off, you can slide the diff forward with a jack and lower it just enough to where it doesn't rip off the boots, but gives you enough room to remove the old bushings and install the new ones.
Just trying to save a couple of hours.
Someone who has done this please tell me why this is not doable before I try it.
I swapped in a diff w/ 3.69 gears when I did my install, but even if I had not been doing that--- I def would have disconnected the axles. You want more mobility with it than just sliding it forward. You gotta get some leverage applied when getting those stock bushings out .. even if you devise a washer, long hex bolt, washer like shadetree press to get them out.
YMMV and I know for a fact...access to a lift would have shave 1 - 1.5 hours off my buddy and I's install time.
Okay I am in the process of installing the bushings but I've run into a dilemma. The instructions say to put the small bushing piece on top, large on bottom. I read somewhere in this thread about pinion angles being off and these needing to be reversed. Here are a few comparison pics I took.
The factory bushing has a gap of 21/32 from where I measured.
The big one has a gap of 24/32
And the small one a gap of 11/32
It seems to me that putting the big end of the bushing will throw the pinion angle off only 3/32, where are the small one will throw it off 10/32.
It's been said many times, large goes on top near the body of the car, small on bottom closer to the ground. It's opposite of the instructions for the g37/370z
It's been said many times, large goes on top near the body of the car, small on bottom closer to the ground. It's opposite of the instructions for the g37/370z
With the top hats on as well?
I am getting mixed answers reading through this thread
I tested three combos to get the right pinion angle (Large on top with hat, Large on top without hat, and small on top with hat).
Whiteline needs to put out a bulletin about this..
I forgot to take pictures, but the large bushing on top w/o hat is the way to go. The driveshaft u joint is almost completely straight all the way around with it installed this way. When I used the small one w/ hat, I had a big gap on top of u joint top/small gap on bottom. This is probably causing the noise so many are complaining about on this thread.
I took my car for a test drive and it is 1,000,000,000,000 times better.
My 285's finally break traction again and it feels like I'm getting every bit out of my 400 hp setup.
This is one of the best mods I have ever done, and **hopefully after I install my camber arms tomorrow and get an alignment I will have no more issues for 30 or 40k miles!
Thanks to everyone in this thread for contributing.
I just got my Whiteline bushings yesterday. Hopefully, the installation goes without a hitch and good to know other users have tried out different configurations.
Update: The worst is over. I cut the original bushing out and pressed the Whiteline bushing into the subframe. However, the front bushings for the differential were a pain because they did not want to come out. So I ended up drilling a slot and cutting through the bushing and pushed it out.
Now just need to reinstall and torque everything to specification.
Finally finished the installation and putting everything back together. I have a 2012 G37x Sedan and here are some things I learned along the way and a collection of my thought during the processes in no particular order.
- There are 6 driveline bolts in the AWD version.
- Use a paint pen to mark driveline and the axles.
- Sometimes getting the front bushings (x2) on the diff is not as easy as it sounds. I tried hammering it out but nothing. However, I managed to drill it out and push it out easily.
- the subframe bushing works best if you cut it out with a reciprocating saw, make sure you cut it straight and not at an angle.
- Use a black floor flange and a 1/2 8" carriage bolt, washers, adjustable wrench and to press the bushing into the hole.
- If your bushing doesn't go on straight, that's okay, just use your bolt and adjust it.
- There is not a lot of room back there, so I pressed the bushing in from the front.
- Don't forget to disconnect the sensors and the clips that connect it to the subframe. I had to cut zip-tie type clips the top of the of the subframe, I couldn't get it to come out, but I'm sure there's a better way.
- Be careful how you lower your diff and where your arm is. You may accidentally crush your arm.
- Torque specs, Subframe bushing bolt, 81 ft-lbs. Front diff bushings, 74 ft lbs, driveline bolts, 54 ft-lbs, axle bolts, 59 ft-lbs.
- Liquid wrench is your friend
- This job can easily be done by 1-person, just have a long piece of wood to help you align your differential back as you jack it up.
- Did a quick test drive, it feels very planted in the rear. No audible noises or vibrations.
- The Whiteline bushings appear to be the easier to install in contrast to the energy suspension version of the bushing (I bought those too but going to return them)
- I went with the thick on top, thin on the bottom, and no top hat as per recommendation in this post.
- Get a ratcheting wrench... My arms are very tired.
Before the bushing gets cut out, it's a go/no go decision. Once you cut your bushing, there's no turning back.
Anyways, these are my random thoughts during the process.
Update (10/18/2017):
- When you drill out the front bushings (the ones located on the diff itself), drill enough that you can fit a metal cutting blade on a reciprocating saw on.
- I highly recommend getting the Diablo Steel-Demon carbide tipped reciprocrating saw blade. It will cut the metal very quickly, and efficiently.
My car was on a lift at a shop last week to discuss exhaust options and I noticed this leakage. After some research, I fear I need to replace the bushings. I'm pretty handy when it comes to minor repairs (suspension, breaks, etc.), but this one looks a bit intimidating. UGH!
You got it man. Just follow the walk through and you'll be golden. Gotta figure, every issue you could possibly run into has been discussed at this point in post #163.
My car was on a lift at a shop last week to discuss exhaust options and I noticed this leakage. After some research, I fear I need to replace the bushings. I'm pretty handy when it comes to minor repairs (suspension, breaks, etc.), but this one looks a bit intimidating. UGH!
The repair is difficult but not impossible for a DIY'er. Just be prepared and have tools handy for different situations and what helped me through the process was before the job, I ensured I was able to loosen my exhaust bolts. If they're in 'ok' condition but their seized up, have an impact handy to break them loose.
I listed a number of thoughts on the repair on the post above yours. Ask me questions and I'll try to answer them to the best of my ability.
07-27-2017, 07:28 AM
