Laguna

Hi Guys,

I bought my G with 29k miles and it has many swirl marks and minor scratches. Similar to what Gio37 had:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/car-car...ed-my-car.html

Now, I don't have a RO to take care of it, but after seeing the results, I'm willing to invest the $ to get what I need and do it myself.

The thing is, I have no idea how to do it: I watched many videos on how to do it, read a lot, but still have 1000 questions. For example, I heard that the 7424XP RO is amazing for cost/benefit. But then, I couldn't find any real info on which pads to use with which product.
I do need to do compound and polish, but that's as far as I know.
So, I found these options and I don't really know the differences:

$159:
DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes & Pads Basic Kit | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

$189:
DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Menzerna Polishes & Pads Starter Kit | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

$219:
DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

I see that the last one has a backing plate of 5'' and the pads are 5.5''. Does that make sense? Is it better to have wider plates?

Also I'll need a clay bar and some quick detailer, right?
Chemical Guys Synthetic Quick Detailer - 16 oz | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image
DI Accessories Fine Grade Clay - 100 g | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

anything else?
Yes! wax/sealant

(ouch, a cheaper one?)
Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection - 16 oz | Free Shipping Available - Detailed Image

any ideas? anything else i'm missing?
Thank you guys!

Flakman

The Meguiars kit (third kit) would be the one I would go four out of the three.

First kit is nice, but I think all around not as good as the third.
Second kit looks like only polish with the Menzerna kit so you may need a coarser compound to do any real cutting.

A full detail for me would be:
Wash
Clay (QD for lube)
Compound/Cutting (Orange cutting pad and M105 if using third kit)
Polish (White polishing pad and M205 if using third kit)
Sealant of your choice (Wait 24 hours after wipe off before next step)
Wax (careful of the rubber and plastic if using carnuba)

Oh...and I know I sound like a Meguiars fan boy, but the Meg clay kit is available at Walmart for about $18. For claying, you can't beat that price.

Laguna

Thank you very much!!!
I'll try to go to walmart to see if I can get the claying kit thanks!

BTW, can you explain the difference between the different pads? I understand that the light cutting is for compund and the polishing for the polish (duh :P) but do the different sizes really make a difference for example?
Thank you again!

Flakman

You want to get the pad sized appropriate to the backing plate you're using. Too small of a pad and the backing plate can hit and damage the paint. Not sure how a pad too big for the backing plate would be a problem. Just make sure it's for the correct backing plate and you're fine.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Don't skimp on the quantity of pads, I'd go with at least 2 grades (preferably 3) for your compounding/polishing and one for applying the wax and get at least 2 of each pad with 3 of each being a great starting quantity.

There are places you can get the pads for less, even Harbor Freight has slightly bigger 6" pads but still work fine and when you have some sale deals
they can be a good buy.
Polishing and Buffing Pads & Accessories

And you can cut your clay bar in half or even thirds (with a clean exacto knife), put the remaining bars in a ziplock w/ a spray of detailing liquid or soapy water to get the most out of your clay.

Flakman

^^ Sage advice. Extra pads are a must. Even cleaning pads with a rag, they'll get loaded up to the point where you need to change them out while doing the car especially when cutting.

Laguna

Thank you guys! You've been great!!!
I'll wait a little bit (for pay day) and get the stuff.

I didn't know it that you had to "toss" the clay bar (or the part that you're using) after you clay the car, i thought you could use it many times (good that i asked xD)

Flakman

No. You don't toss once it's used. You knead the clay when the surface gets dirty. When you find that you can no longer get a clean surface, you throw it away. If you drop it on the ground, then you throw it away. You will not get the dirt out and it will scratch the paint. 1/2 the bar should be able to clay the car a couple of times before tossing. That also depends on how much crap is on the car and how fast it loads up the clay.

Laguna

Sounds great, I'll give it a try
thanks again

Upscale Speed

iTrader: (18)

1. Wash (megs gold class is good OTC car wash) use a microfiber wash mit
2. Clay bar car (plenty of good choices out there, Mothers Cali Gold Clay Kit is good OTC)
3. Correct (Menzerna FG-400 is an awesome compound to remove defects and had a nice finish). Use a orange cutting pad. 5.5" pads go with 5" backing plates, good combo. Turn your RO all the way to 6.
4. Polish (Menzerna SF-4000 is a great follow up) Use with a white polishing pad and keep RO turned to 6.
5. Seal (Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant is excellent, shines like crazy and lasts for months) apply this either by hand of with a yellow or red pad. Turn speed to 4.

You can wax with a carnuba topper to give it that extra glow, but you don't have to. If you want to Pinnacle Souveran and P21S 100% Carnuba are both excellent choices.

Take your time with the correction and polishing steps as they are the most important and it takes a long time to get your finish perfect. If i were you I'd wash, clay and then bring it into your garage and plan on it being in there for a solid 2 days so you can do this right.

More pads the better, also get some really good MF towels check out Detailed Images website or Auto Geek. You got this!!

Laguna

Thanks!
What I was really thinking is to wash the car, clay it, polish the front, wax it
Then the following week, wash it again, clay it, polish the back, wax it
I can't really not use my car as it's the only one I have

Quickett

You will waste a lot of time doing it this way. Your best bet is to: pick a Friday night through Saturday afternoon that you will not need your car.
As soon as you get home friday:

1. -Wash the car with a strong soap, citrus based works well, as you want to ensure all protection is stripped before cladding and polishing. Do not dry the car, just pull into garage wet. 45 min approximately.

2. While it is wet, you can begin claying.(I suggest picking up some ONR, you can use it as clay lube, QD and use it for rinseless washes depending on the dilution ration used) 60 min approximately

3. Get a spray bottle and mix 1:1 distilled water and isopropyl alcohol. IPA wipedown to ensure no clay reside is left. 20 min approximately

4. Start taping(use either auto body tape or painters tape the kind that doesn't leave residue when removed) Trim around sunroof, rear glass where the trunk opens, trim around the windows, the emblems on the trunk, the trim piece on the trunk, etc... DO NOT SKIMP OR RUSH THROUGH THIS! The little extra time you spend will save you much more time later cleaning polish off glass and in between body panels. 60 min approximately

5. Polishing, I personally use Menzerna products on my customers cars and my OB G. I have tried M105 & 205, but they dust a little too much for my liking. Menzerna products which are DAT (diminishing) finish really well with minimal dust. As was previously stated FG400 w/yellow or orange pads followed by SF4000 with a white pad is a combo that will work in a lot of situations (every one is a little different though) 4-8 hours maybe more depending on number of steps and condition of paint.

Depending how late you are willing to work, you could possibly complete the compounding stage before calling it a night. Then complete finish stage in the morning. 2-4 hours approximately

If you have good light in your garage, you might not need it, but a halogen work light from harbor freight is cheap and will help you examine your progress. Between each polishing step you will want to use the IPA wipedown to remove the previous steps polishing oils and abrasives. This helps you see the naked surface, and see if you are satisfied. Do not try to get your paint 100% corrected, more than likely you have some scratches that are just too deep to get to (if your fingernail can catch in the scratch it is too deep to polish out)

6. Glaze/Sealant. You are on the right track with BFWD. The stuff is slightly expensive, but it goes A LONG WAY. I have used it on almost 20 cars and I still haven't finished the bottle. You Wil be amazed at the sickness of your paint after you use it. To apply BFWD you will only need one blue pad. 60 min approximately

If you start after work Friday, you can be finished and by Saturday afternoon. I didn't include all of the other steps, such as engine, wheels, tires, wheel wells, glass, interior because that would be getting into micro level detail that many books have been written about. Meant to be kind of a cliff notes version.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Out of the 3 kits you listed, I would also suggest the 3rd kit that includes pads and the M105/205 combination. I may also suggest purchasing a 3" backing plate and 3" pads as well. These will allow you to correct smaller areas such as pillars and bumpers easily and safely.

If your vehicle is in relatively poor shape, you may also consider purchasing Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting Discs for more aggressive cutting.

I would highly recommend reading through our comprehensive Detailing Guide for more suggestions on products and processes.

I have listed a selection of articles that you may also find helpful below... you can find other great articles on the Ask-A-Pro Blog.

Explaining the Decontamination Process (Part 1) by Zach McGovern

Explaining the Decontamination Process (Part 2) by Zach McGovern

Paint Correction: Pairing Products and Pads - By Zach McGovern

Analyzing Your Test Spot by Zach McGovern




Please let me know if you've got any questions! I am happy to help.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
Attention to Detailing Peoria - Home

Flakman

^^ Another great resource that I neglected to mention (sorry DI, I've gone through your site and like it a lot!)

-SnowMan-

An alternate option to claying is to use a NanoSkin Sponge. It's a synthetic clay bar.

I used one last weekend to detail my G and was pretty pleased with the results. Took about half the time as using actual clay and you can reuse the sponge for like 30+ cars.

Plus, if you drop it on the ground, you just dunk it in a bucket of water and move your hand over the synthetic surface to clean it.