snuka

I have a question about the leather seats.
I had an issue with my driver seat bottom where the foam backing on the leather was peeling off and causing lumps and creases, so the dealership replaced it under warranty. Its the red leather in an IPL.
The new oem leather seat looks better but it is much duller and feels like a different material than the other seats, which are close to 3 years old. Is this normal? The dealership says to leave it in the sun and eventually it will start to match.
Have you ever seen this and is it true? I've already conditioned it a couple times but it's only been about 2 weeks.
Thanks for your input.

meme405

Just back to the Vinyl wrap issue.

What about for Matte Vinyl wrapped vehicles?

I only use washes and stuff without sillicone or wax in them, so quik detailer, or really simple car shampoos. Is there anything else I can be doing?

Also what's the best tire shine to avoid slinging? obviously getting tire shine on the matte finish can be really bad. I have tried a few and they all leave something to a degree. I hate that so much.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Clean leather should be a matte/dull finish. If the rest of your leather is shiny, that is an indication that it is dirty and covered with oils, etc from skin. I would recommend thoroughly cleaning the leather with something like Sonax Leather Foam and an upholstery brush.

Simply spray the cleaner onto an area and allow to dwell as directed. Then agitate the cleaner with the brush, wipe away with a damp towel, then follow up with a clean dry towel. This will restore a clean, matte finish to the leather.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
Attention to Detailing - Peoria, IL

I do not think you need to avoid waxes. A wax will not make the matte finish glossy... especially the very low concentration found in some shampoos that have polymers and/or wax in it.

You want to use a water based dressing like CarPro PERL or Optimum Opti-Bond rather than a silicone based dressing. However, often times it is not the tire shine that causes the slinging, but the process in which it is applied. You want to ensure the tire is completely clean and dry first. Then you want to apply very thin coats of tire dressing, allowing each coat to dry before applying the next coat. You should be able to swipe your finger on the tire with very, very little residue transferring to your skin. After you have achieved the desired gloss, allow the car to sit for at least an hour (just my recommendation) before driving. It is also a good idea to gently wipe the tire with a poor quality microfiber towel to absorb any excess dressing that may be on the surface that had not absorbed into the tire.

Hope that helps!

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
Attention to Detailing - Peoria, IL

mezzo

iTrader: (7)

Hi there. I have a question regarding the cleaning and polishing of stainless steel mufflers on my exhaust.

Any tips? Looking to make them shine like new again.. What to use,, the process. and is their anything I can apply after cleaning and polishing them afterwards to make the shine last ?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Hey... we've actually got an in-depth article on this subject, check it out.

Exhaust Tip Detailing by Todd Cooperider


If you've got any specific questions regarding processes or products, please let me know and I'll be happy to help!

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
Attention to Detailing - Peoria, IL

mezzo

iTrader: (7)

Perfect and thank you!

Clutch34

I hear the G37 paint is real soft. I just bought a 2011 G37S coupe, obsidian black, and there's quite a bit of swirls with some rock chips. I was planning on using Dr. ColorChip for the rock chips and am in the market for a DA polisher. With the soft paint, do you think Meguiars M205, alone, will be good enough to remove 70-90% of swirls and get LSP ready? For the LSP I plan on putting 1 layer of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 followed by a carnauba wax (don't know which one yet). Thanks.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Yes, M205 is quite versatile and can be used to do some serious correction, and some very delicate finishing depending on how it is used.

While I can never be 100% sure a particular group of products will always work, M205 is our most used polish because it does yield great results in most instances. I find that I use it most with either an Orange Light Cutting Pad or White Polishing Pad.

These will work nicely with the Griot's Garage Random Orbital.

I'd highly recommend BlackFire Wet Diamond Paint Sealant, and two of my personal favorite waxes are Pete's 53 Black Pearl or Pinnacle Souveran.

Let me know if you've got any other questions!

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
Attention to Detailing - Peoria, IL

Clutch34

Thanks for the response and suggestions. I have been looking into the Griots polisher but also the Meguiars new MT300. I like the design of the MT300 and supposed decrease in vibration. With my day job it would be better for me and my patients if my hands and arms weren't too sore lol Have you tried the MT300? If so, what's your opinion between the 2? I was set on the Griots until I found out about the Meguiars one. Also, thanks for the pad suggestions and other products!

Thirty_Seven

iTrader: (5)

Read the exhaust tip article but curious as to cleaning Titanium Burnt exhaust tips. I can't polish them because it'll take the blue-burnt effect off, what products would be safe for them?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

I agree with you that I also prefer the 'rotary style' design of the body of the MT300, so if that is within your budget, that may be a great option for you. I haven't personally used that machine, so I cannot accurately compare it with the Griot's 6" machine. We use the Rupes Bigfoot and Griot's BOSS machines for the most part.

I have never had an issue with polishing burnt tips. If they simply need to be cleaned, washing them with traditional soap and water on a microfiber towel will help to remove loose dirt, however if they have embedded staining, carbon buildup, and oxidation a polish will need to be used. Always use the least aggressive method when polishing, so start with a foam pad, then perhaps a MF towel, and if needed step up to steel wool (

RUsum1

I have the Griot's 6" orbital, Griot's orange pad and red pad, Meguiar's clay kit, soap, Ultimate Compound, Ultimate quick detailer, and paste wax

I have tried to look up the proper order and method for detailing my car. On the roof is a long (but not too deep) scratch from a low hanging tree branch that I want to remove. Also above one of the wheels is a little bit of dried on chewing gum.

Please let me know if these are the steps to follow

1) hose down car to get any loose dirt off.
2) wash car (two bucket method)
3) hose car again to remove soap
4) clay bar kit to remove any paint contaminants
5) random orbital using ultimate compound and orange pad then wipe dry (although after reading the link in your sig I think this might be too aggressive).
6) random orbital using paste wax and red pad then wipe dry
7) quick detailer as maintenance instead of random orbital all the time

Am I missing anything? Any tips?

edit: I forgot to add that I also plan to remove the letters from the trunk (but leave the emblem). I remember reading somewhere else that all you need is fishing line to peel off the letters and then WD40 to remove the glue from the double sided tape. Is my memory correct or is it something different to remove the glue?

egrabin

Detailed Image—first, I just want to say great job with being very responsive.


Now, my question: Is there any way to recovery from vinyl with some yellowing/stains? At certain angles it seems that there's a bit of color mismatch. These Vinyl wraps are so sensitive! I some a bit of grime on my car from the tires and it seems to leave little stains. I've been told that Simple Green will do the job.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

You're going in the right direction...

As far as your step #5 and comment that go along with it, you won't know how aggressive you need to be without doing some test spots. If your paint is quite soft, you may only need to use a finishing pad and fine polish to remove certain defects, but if your paint is harder you may require cutting pads and compounds to remove the same type of defect. Since every vehicle is different, the only way to determine the best plan of action for your particular vehicle is through testing.

The golden rule of paint correction is to "always use the least aggressive method possible" to ensure you are preserving your clear coat.

Begin with something like Meguiar's M205 or Ultimate Polish on a polishing pad, and observe your results. Make changes based on your observations. If, for instance, you notice no defect removal, you will likely need to step up to a more aggressive pad and product. If you noticed some defect removal, but you needed a bit more, perhaps you just need to use a more aggressive pad, or make a couple more passes. Testing can be a time consuming process, but it will ensure you are getting the best results in the safest way possible. Check out these articles for more info.

What is a “Test Spot” and why is it important? by Chad Raskovich

Analyzing Your Test Spot by Zach McGovern



As for the debadging...

How Do I Remove the Car Dealership Stickers, Decals, Badges, or Emblems From My Car? by Chad Raskovich

Let me know if you've got any other questions

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
Attention to Detailing - Peoria, IL



Thank you for the kind words

Any way you could share some photos of what you're experiencing? Are you referring to stained clear bra?

If so, above surface stains can be cleaned with a variety of chemicals though you should proceed with caution as the film can be quite sensitive if the wrong product is used. If the stain has penetrated the surface, it will require an abrasive (such as a polish or compound) to remove.

Zach McGovern
Detailed Image Ask-A-Pro Blog Author
Attention to Detailing - Peoria, IL

egrabin

Don't have much to provide right now, but there's a stain/yellowing along the edge of the fender lining where the along the door jam closest to the handle. There's dirt stains on the sideskirt that don't seem to come off from handwashing either.