MyG37 - The So people will stop bugging me Build Thread

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The So people will stop bugging me Build Thread

I will make a build thread. I bought the car from Jsolo, another member on this forum, on July (I think) 2019. It's a 2012 sport sedan RWD 6MT and it currently has 43,xxx miles. It was completely stock except for an Invidia Q300 CBE, RJM clutch pedal, and Eibach sway bars. This is how it looks currently.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...7a1fc6c224.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5f9072ee31.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5e1fd966ac.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...896e534be2.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...a11f6f3438.jpg

Most recent acceleration test video:
You Tube

MOD LIST
- RJM Clutch Pedal
- Antigravity ATX-30 RS lightweight battery (6lbs)
- Intake:

Rabbit Hole Motorsports custom made 2.75" bellmouths and velocity stack filters
2.75" AAM upper intake piping
MaxBore bored stock throttle bodies up a few mm from stock
Ported upper intake manifold
Ported lower intake manifold
GTR 550cc injectors

- Exhaust:

2.5" AAM resonated high flow cats
2.25" Invidia Q300 cat-back

- Ecutek tuning done by Eugene at Enthusiast Auto Care. I use some Boostane in every gas fill-up to ensure good octane levels in my 93 gas
- 370z nismo springs F/R
- Eibach sway bars F/R
- 18lb Superspeed RF03RR wheels 18x8.5 +35 front and 18x9.5 +38 rear
- Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ 235/45/18 front and 255/40/18 rear
- 25% window tint and vinyl wrapped lower portion of window trim

- Random weight savings (60-70 lbs total):

Pulled out spare and tools (I live in a smaller town with lots of friends/family that can bring me my spare if I get a flat)
Removed engine cover (to help with heat getting trapped)
Removed hood liner (for better sound FX from engine)
RHFCs reduced weight by about 10 lbs over stock cats
I think the Invidia Q300 weighs a little more than the stock exhaust so that offsets the 10 lbs saved from the cats
Wheels and lighter lug nuts save 6-7lbs per corner for a total of about 25 lbs

Future plans:

1. "Fixing" my exhaust. Currently I'm using AAM RHFCs that are 2.5" but they're mated to a 2.25" Q300 CBE. I really don't like the step down in piping because it's not a smooth transition. I know that exhaust gases in this area close to the engine have a fairly significant effect on scavenging. It continues to bother me that there's this lip where the flanges meet. I am kinda OCD and i know it's robbing me of some power, even if it's just a few HP. I do plan to dyno my car this year and I want every bit of power I can make. I want to get this fixed by buying something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/13309698544...kcid=28&chn=ps

I would have that piece cut in half. Then I'd have a muffler shop cut off the flanges on my Q300 and replace it with the pieces that I cut in half. They would use a pipe expander on the Q300 piping to bring it up to 2.5" so it could be welded to this replacement flange. I have thought a long time about this and I have tried to find other ways to get this done, but I think this is the easiest / cheapest solution..

Along with that, I want to try replacing my Q300's mufflers since they are chambered and restrictive in comparison to a more straight-through design. That's why I have been eyeing twin loop mufflers. It may sound rice because they're almost exclusively used on Hondas, but a muffler is a muffler and if it works, then I don't care what car it's on.

The purpose of the twin loop design is to have the exhaust pass through the muffler twice. The internal piping is perforated. These mufflers are supposed to maintain good low end torque and be quiet in the lower rpm's because the exhaust will mostly pass through the chamber twice. But whenever you go WOT, the increased pressure and exhaust flow would allow some of the gases to pass through the chamber only once, since some of those gases will be spilling over to the outlet pipe without passing through the loop at all. I hope that makes sense. It feels like the best of both worlds to me because I want a muffler that can maintain a level of quietness but also not be as restrictive as a full chambered muffler.

Here's another way that someone explained it: "The loop design produces additional backpressure at lower rpm's to boost torque and whp production. This occurs because the exhaust flows following the loop and because the sound pulses are then almost 180degrees out of phase within the muffler, the perforated cores allow the out of phase sound pulses to cancel each other, this is why the loop muffler is so quiet. At higher rpm's and exhaust flow part of the exhaust still flows following the loop path, but a fair percentage also flows from one perforated core to the other core greatly reducing the backpressure (also pulses are quieted due to phasing again) and produces greater whp than a typical fartcan like HKS, DC sports etc."

I'm planning to buy one of these mufflers as a "test" soon: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/xfo-s12r-2-25
It's overall length is about 20-21" and the Q300 muffler is about 22" from my measurements, so it should fit pretty well. If it's too loud after testing, then I'll just resell it for a loss or put it on my Chevy Cruze lol (it doesn't even have a visible muffler tip in stock form - I hate that!) Earlier I said I want to dyno my car this year. Well, I want to dyno it before / after I change these mufflers so I can see if there is any improvement. I planned to dyno it regardless so I might as well test an upgrade while I'm at it. I'm really hoping to gain about 5whp+ because my car is pretty heavily modified and I should be pushing through more exhaust flow compared to stock, and 2.25" piping is fairly restrictive anyway. Anything that can lessen the backpressure is going to help.

2. z1 two piece rotors. I have a $300 credit on the z1 store and I plan to get new pads + rotors this year. I want to gain some performance while changing them. I originally planned to do these first before exhaust fixes, but it's just so hard to bite the bullet and spend $1,100 on rotors... and even more since I'm including pads and brake fluid! whewwwww....

3. Clutch, lightweight flywheel, CMAK, and 4.083 gears. These are going to be some of my final modifications and then I'll pretty much consider my car "complete." I really, REALLY dislike how the car feels with the stock dual mass flywheel and long gearing. Even with all of the performance mods I've done, it still feels so SLUGGISH sometimes due to the stock drivetrain. My previous car was an RSX-S with 5.062 gears and it was so dang fun. I want to wait until my clutch / or slave cylinder (its the slave, right?) starts going out more before I consider these mods though. It's not going to be cheap either.

4. OEM front sport lip. Not so important especially because they're kinda pricey, but I will eventually get this at some point.

5. Bell Raceworks differential brace

Few pics of past cars.

2002 Acura RSX Type-S with Injen CAI, RBC manifold, Hondata thermal IM gasket, z1 / ITR cams, Invidia race header, Invidia Q300 2.75" exhaust, K-Pro tuned, 5.062 final drive, stage 2 clutch + lightweight flywheel. I'm probably forgetting something. I wish I could have kept this car but I had to sell it in order to afford the G. There will forever be a spot in my heart for the RSX / K series engines.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...d38dd4470d.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...5d3592704d.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...2f54d81a6f.jpg

I also owned a supercharged 2001 Honda S2000 back in my late teens / early 20's. Super awesome, fun car, but I was a stupid kid that got into a lot of trouble at the time in my life and those memories bleed over into owning the S2000, so I have this horrible feeling every time I think about the car. I wish I owned it now when I am more mature. One day, it would be cool to own one again, but their prices are going up and I just don't see it happening.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...26965290c4.jpg

My first "real" car I got when I turned 18 was a 2004 Mazda 6 v6 with a 5 speed. Not much to say about it other than I should have bought a TSX / RSX / WRX instead :)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c957ea6f87.jpg

Woah didn't realize you had done some pretty good power adders as well. Speak on your tuning experience with Eugene and how the car felt afterwards. He's local to me and when the time comes I'll be going with Ecutek through him.

Excellent build thread. Lots of good stuff here.

Nice car for being 71! I hope when I'm that old I can still drive 6MT.

I'm not 71!! Haha, I'm 34.. the profile settings doesn't let me change my birthday, it has to be a moderator that changes it. Set it to April 14 1986 please!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2.2Lude (Post 4291705)

There are a couple reviews that pretty much sum up my experience perfectly:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-...auto-care.html

https://www.myg37.com/forums/ecu-tun...re-ecutek.html

Eugene is extremely knowledgeable, he has almost exclusively 5-star reviews for his business on Yelp, he usually responds very quickly and takes time to answer all your questions. he works for NASA, he got an award for best tuner from Ecutek, he uses his custom algorithms to fine-tune fuel maps better than a human can do it manually, etc.

The only downside is if you don't drive your G very often, it can take a long time to get enough data from start to finish of the tuning process. I think overall, it took me like 2-3 months (with a few hiccups / errors on my end) because I only drive the car rarely because it's not my DD.

I'm pretty sure I'll just be getting the z1 2-piece front rotors ONLY now and just replacing the rears with a standard slotted type. But the question is.. does anyone know a rotor that will match z1's sprinkle slotted fronts? I emailed them about it and they said the sport rear rotor replacements are normal slotted and not sprinkle slotted. Would that look weird if I matched these two up?

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rs-p-7025.html

https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...r-p-16394.html

Yes, that will look all kind of wrong. Either go with blanks all around, or pony up the ridiculous added cost for 2-piece rears, sprinkle-slotted like the fronts.

Blanks are fine. It's just aesthetics. That said... Z1's sprinkle slot design is freaking gorgeous. :NOD:

Quote:

Originally Posted by backman_66 (Post 4291742)

I think the closest in design might be the DBA and 2nd closest might be the EBC

https://zspeed.com/product/dba-4000-...-sport-brakes/
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c8c4cd6c6c.png

https://propartsusa.com/products/EBC...4aAi8_EALw_wcB
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...a5811ef38e.png

Hmm.. those DBAs aren't cheap! I almost might as well cough up the extra money for z1's rears at that price point.

What about if I get z1's drilled AND slotted fronts to match with the 1 piece rears? Do they use a sprinkle pattern for that still, or a more standard slotted pattern? I don't see pics on their website for the specific G37 Sport application.

EDIT: I contacted z1 and just got a reply that drilled + slotted will be the same if I get 2 piece fronts and 1 piece rears. Cool beans. I guess that's how I'll do it then.

Now for brake fluid.. I have a few bottles of Honda brake fluid left from when I owned an RSX. Could I use that or should I just go with Motul 5.1?

Awesome setup, I really love the detail around the performance modifications. Not sure if I love the way the intake piping turns towards the radiator but I guess its not a big deal. Did you port the manifolds yourself?

The clutch/flywheel/gears will probably transform this car. I miss the low end grunt from some of the previous cars I've owned.

I'll go on a whim an say get the diff brace, its cheap and about 15 minutes of your time to install. It will be worth the $ paid.

I have the OEM front lip on my list as well, just waiting for the right deal from Infiniti.

I would get the z1 fronts and blank rears. I don't think it will look weird at all and I'm an 'obsessed type'. Pretty sure there were some OEMs that sold cars like this from the factory.

Thanks for the compliments! My goal performance-wise was not to go overboard on anything. For example, there is lots of proof that a standard 2.5" intake like gen 3's or z1's can make good power, right? If that's the case, then why are people fitting 3" and 3.5" intakes? Is your engine really able to flow that much added air? It just doesn't add up to me. I understand you might make more peak power in the upper rpm ranges, but I feel like it would take away from the low/mid ranges, therefore I went with 2.75" to hopefully be a nice medium to allow more air flow but not kill lower end. That's also why I added the velocity stacks, since the piping size is increased, I wanted to maintain as much velocity as possible. I don't really like how the pipe turns in toward the radiator either, that's just the way RHM made it for me. I felt it was kinda strange.

I went with stock ported tb's, and ported manifolds, to better accompany the increased airflow. Once again, people putting on 75mm TB's just seems a little bit outrageous to me. I don't doubt that it can make peak power, but it has to sacrifice it somewhere, right? Low/midrange probably gets hurt again by that. I have seen quite a few dyno sheets of people that can't make very good TQ numbers with these engines, and I feel like this "oversized" mentality is the culprit a lot of times. I do realize though, that everyone has different goals in mind. Some people want to extract maximum hp for racing so the huge intakes would be great in that case! I have nothing against it, it's just not my taste. I think a happy medium can produce great power in all ranges.

I'm very much looking forward to getting a dyno sometime this year. I want to see how my TQ curve looks with my setup and if my ideas are correct as far as finding a nice middle ground. I wanted to dyno z1's rotors too, because I want to provide that information to people since it's lacking. The rears are just too expensive though, and the fronts won't show any difference on the dyno I don't think on a RWD car. Oh well! That money I would be spending on the rear 2-piece rotors is much better spent elsewhere.

As far as the intake manifolds, one was ported by RHM and the other by CFM Performance in Indiana.

Quote:

Originally Posted by backman_66 (Post 4291693)

Wow, that is nice. Always liked RSXs. They are getting harder to find. I wish I saw this for sale especially since it's in my favorite colour for that car.