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So this is where we’re at. Ended up going with a steel driveshaft $500 installed. (Kinda cheap I thought)
However, my reasoning for doing steel over aluminum so is because my local driveshaft guy AND thedriveshaftshop said they can’t make it in aluminum with my dimensions and the way it bolts up. Still lighter than stock, don’t have the accurate weight. Was told it would shave 10lbs or so hopefully that’s true. It looks amazing
wow, really like your build man and appreciate you posting all the info about the driveline upgrades, especially the pictures, looking forward to see how it drives
At the filter side Showing front of oil cooler. Showing front of oil cooler with where lines follow the sway bar to the filter area. Filter area Overview of everything Here you go buddy!!!!!
Originally Posted by G37XS13
Hey Lorentzoe, great build. Can you please let me know how you routed your Z1 Oil Cooler?
Dropping 10lbs. can't hurt. Tune adjust and let er rip?
Yep feels great so far. Here’s the catch. Crazy break in process. Might be a while before I get to launch it hard.
So in 1k miles from now at 66,300 miles I go back and they check fluid and look for any issues. Looking for clutch material, shavings, and I have no idea what else lol.
Right now I have been told DO NOT GO ABOVE 3k until I go back at 66,300 miles. Asked if I can just go drive to Florida or something and back and he said that it has to be mostly city driving. You want the stop and go traffic and redlights and not so much the constant speed. Driving for 50 miles per trip at most right now. Lots of heat/cool cycles.
After i I go back for the second 1k interval at 67,300, they do same tests and and check stuff then I can now only rev to 5k.
Third service is same thing. Then opened up to 7k rpm. Not sure if that 7k is the last service or not. I’ll get more info.
wow, really like your build man and appreciate you posting all the info about the driveline upgrades, especially the pictures, looking forward to see how it drives
Z1 motor mount Z1 power steering cooler Rear Diff bushing Z1 diff cover Rear diff Overview Oem driveshaft Oem driveshaft Oem driveshaft Oem driveshaft Oem driveshaft Trans cooler Motor mount
Front sway bar setting. Rear sway bar setting. Rear sway bar setting Delete windshield washer reservoir Z1 slotted brakes Hawk pads Front diff is leaking! Front diff leak Brake master cylinder brace. Got all 3 screws in. Brake master cylinder brace. Got all 3 screws in. Brake master cylinder brace. Got all 3 screws in. Brake master cylinder brace. Got all 3 screws in. Brake master cylinder brace. Got all 3 screws in. Brake master cylinder brace. Got all 3 screws in. Headers Headers Headers Headers Headers Headers Z1 motor mount. Helped solve clearance issue with my headers by lifting motor up a little bit. Sooooo happy Z1 motor mount. Helped solve clearance issue with my headers by lifting motor up a little bit. Sooooo happy Trans cooler lines. The other end, not the coolers side but what they hook into on the car.
Break in period is going good except for a front diff leak that has to get looked at. I’ll keep y’all updated. Only put 200 miles on my car since the trans work. So far not to many regrets, just wish I had bust bought a level 10 complete trans and have it installed rather than have somebody local build it. Comes out to almost same price. I just trust level 10 more than who did the trans works.
As far as driveablily, seems like the car is the exact same as it was before. Rpm changes isn’t noticed that much even with the stall. Trans definitely shifts hard also, but for me the 7at always shifted absolutely terribly and been a complete fail. Again not much surprise here.
One major difference I’ve noticed is the lsd rear. WOW! Car really handles so much different and better. Coming into corners feels so much more planted. Less penguin shimmy lol.
Also haven’t been able to get on it yet, but I feel a lot more low end power even up to 3.5k. Like less peddle push equals more push back in seat than before. Definitely happy overall. Just can’t wait to get past break in period.
GOING TO CRUSH N/A record for all g37. Not just fastest n/a x, but all gs (Sedan/coupe/rwd/awd). Can’t wait. 150 shot of Nitrous still in the works in maybe 6 months or so. Already bought another kit.
Keep driving. I want to hear more feedback. Especially on the motor mounts and gearing change. I hope your front diff leak is an easy fix and it doesn’t have to come out again.
Keep driving. I want to hear more feedback. Especially on the motor mounts and gearing change. I hope your front diff leak is an easy fix and it doesn’t have to come out again.
As far as leak goes, we will see. I’m taking in on Monday for them to fix (free fix under warranty forsure). He will need the entire day with it or he planned to have it entire day if need be.
So far other than than the motor mounts helping provide some clearance around headers(worth $500 to me just this clearance issue lol) ,vibrations from it also can be felt when car shuts off. I would say the engine taking its last breath vibration and side to side shake is more pronounced after you click the off button to the car. Little side to side shake. Been driving same setup for a long time, I picked up on it immediately. Also maybe a little more road noise. I feel like tires could be changed to help eliminate road noise if that’s what I end up wanting to go for. Right now it’s like 3/10 vibration. Before it was a 2/10 vibration. (Off topic but installed the master cylinder brace also and can feel ALOT of brake vibrations in pedal like 7/10 after installed, before was 2/10 amount of vibrations) that weren’t there before. It does help brake feel though forsure.)
Not a complaint at all so far on motor mounts. I have had a lot of changes occur at same time so hard to say for 100% what all they did or didn’t do.
Planning on getting a few more pictures of rpm at 40mph, 45 mph, 75mph, 80mph. That would make a comple log for people interested in the 3.69 gears. 40mph to 80mph cruising rpm in drive.
Idle Rpm at 70mph Rpm at 60 Rpm at 55 Rpm at 65 Rpm at 50
Hoping to of found of what the issue was. We ordered a input shaft seal? I think? Anyways that’s should be here today (should of been here yesterday but go figure)
Doesn't seem to be leaking from the rtv main area but having them redo it all anyways. He’s going to leave the diff out and let rtv harden before it goes back in. They are dropping the subframe again to do this. Roughly 8-10hrs labor. This is the second time this was done, lol 20 hrs labor in the front diff at this point.
All costs covered by royalty perfomance at no cost to me with no questions asked. Couldn’t ask for a better shop in that sense.
Only negative in this entire situation is that I have basically not got to drive the car but for only 2 days in the last 3 MONTHS! Keep in mind a month or more of that time has been me waiting on parts.
That dude in blue (automotive youtuber) is going to be reviewing my g (he lives in same county as me) when the break in period is complete this month! Been talking back and forth.
I’m super excited. Also been talking with a few companies about sponsorships. I have accepted one of them, still talking out 2 other potentials. Nitrous still is in the plan but might be next year after road Atlanta. Really focusing now on Zcon on October 18-19. The 18th is autocross, 19th is road Atlanta. I’ll be at road Atlanta and since you can’t spray nitrous on track, no hurry on spray.
I’ll be focusing on dialing in a aggressive alignment/corner balancing car/ along with switching to 18x9 rpf1 (need clearance for big brake kit and wider tires) and also some sticky tires. LOL its always something
Do any of y’all have a Wheelwell account? I’ve seen a few of y’all on there. Here’s mine, lol only made originally to setup video review with David (Thatdudeinblue) but actually ended up liking it and now is number 2 ranked car on site. It’s gotten me a lot of exposure to companies and a lot of help with the car.
07-05-2018, 10:47 AM
$500 installed. (Kinda cheap I thought)
