Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Made me think, so I went and measured my hockey puck. (That sounds so stupid, LOL.)

• Same diameter, at 2.8".
• However, the hockey puck is 1.0" high, whereas this is 1.3"... which would give me better clearance seated in the middle of the jackstand bowl.
• My puck is also less deep and less wide... which is an annoyance I've never done anything about.

Yeah, this thing you found, this Super Puck , it's better. I want one.

Have you used it yet? An-n-n-d, Whoops! For $5.49 Amazon Prime... I just bought it.

guy from norcal

iTrader: (2)

Haha good one john.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

So much win here ^

I did the Amazon Prime thing too because it was cheaper than a hockey puck and a lot less screwing around trying to cut up a hockey puck.

I have used it a few times and it is great. The cutout could actually be a touch deeper, but then again, maybe it is good where it is at so that the pinch weld takes some of the weight.

It is easier to line up the jack pad adapter with the pinch weld and then put the jack under it and bring it up to it rather than trying to line up the jack pad adapter by pumping the jack with the pad adapter sitting on top of the jack.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Looking forward to it.

The way I see things with this Super Puck... I spent a year talking you into your rear gear upgrade, until you finally spent over $1500 on a what must have been a nerve-wracking decision for an awesome mod.

So, now we're even.

[edit]

Bought it. The material is too soft, making it really easy to rip it up.

Hard pass. Genuine hockey puck, FTW.

bPChaos

Ugh damnit. Seeing your pinch welds/jack points all nice and clean makes me want to bend mine back straight. I gave up on mine a while ago, even with the puck (of which I have two).

I have a red TBW undershield. It still uses the clips, and I'm wondering if the rivets are really any better.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

You sound just like one of my customers, "You had to give up $1,500 and I paid $5. Yup, we're even now."

It's not difficult to do, it just takes some time waiting for the coats of paint to dry.

The metal rivets definitely provide a much more solid attachment point. Now I also don't have to worry about the original plastic pop rivets breaking every other time I remove them. The ones on top of the radiator are even more fragile.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

Yesterday I reshaped, sanded, and repainted the jack points on the passenger side. Yes, it was just as exciting as the driver's side.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

When you were doing this, did you consider black instead of white?

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

I have black rustproofing spray that I also plan to use in some areas underneath, but the jack points were originally white so it looks OEM. Especially since I painted a bit beyond the jack points into other areas that were white and needed it. Black would look pretty strange there when it is up on a lift.

guy from norcal

iTrader: (2)

Really nice work on the pinch welds.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

And this is why I spend all the time and money on the car (and driver training)

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Hot damn! That's exactly what it's like when I drive my girls to school!

JK JK. You're clearly braking more aggressively, and driving better overall, than those two Vettes. Just goes to show how straight-line power is only part of the game. Very impressive, 4DRZ.

Do chicks dig guys with driving skillz? You seem to have it going on.

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

Thats some nice driving!

Nico-derm

Not gonna lie, was fully expecting one to “pick up its pace” outta pride and park it somewhere unintentionally. Not that I wish bad things to happen, your driver training comment put me down that path.

Nice smooth lines sir.

4DRZ

iTrader: (7)

You guys are right- being able to pass Shelby Mustangs, Corvettes, and M3's at Road America is not something my car would normally be able to do, especially with the ultra long straights. However, with the right work on the car (and I think more importantly on the driver) we make miracles happen.