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Welcome to the club and nice work on the upper and lower intakes!
You are probably running really lean right now, which is why most people do a tune. You will also probably gain a lot of power with a good tune.
Glad to hear you are doing a dyno tune. I think my nightmare with Z1 trying to get my mail-in tune is finally sorted after 6 months of trying to get a cable and 2+ months of trying to sort the tune.
I hope you like the phase 2 cap. It was really good for me to find accurate temps. Now I have a bluetooth OBDII ap for my phone that I hope to use on the track this spring showing digital gauges when I mount the phone to the windshield.
Good luck with your seat upgrades. I have a thread going in the sedan forum that details everything you need. Not too bad to do, but be prepared to wait a few months for the Bride seat bracket to arrive. If your head is close to hitting the roof it will probably be a touch closer depending on the seat you get. I am waiting to have a guy in my body shop at work fabricate some lower seat rail brackets for me so I can wear a helmet again for track days. (I had to recline the stock seat back quite a bit before)
Thanks! Only thing I’m stressing about the tune is it’s winter now vs 3 months from now blazing hot Florida Summer and reflashes and tunes aren’t cheap. I don’t like this every flash is a fee. Still have to pay the tuner and Dyno time.
Did you go with a base Osiris set up or the better one? I want the multi map setup and launch control. if I’m not mistaking I’ll be spending 750 and still having to pay for reflashes once the year is up that seems greedy to me.
please someone correct me if I’m wrong I’d love to feel better about the cost of the programming if I am mistaken.
Have you heard anything about the buddy club low mount seat rails? that’s what I was planning on going with two of my buddies had great results in two different makes.
Are the G37's side airbags in the seat or the pillar?
It has side airbags in the front seats and head curtain airbags in the roof liner. Nothing in the A or B pillar if that is what you are referring to.
Originally Posted by Lucci
Thanks! Only thing I’m stressing about the tune is it’s winter now vs 3 months from now blazing hot Florida Summer and reflashes and tunes aren’t cheap. I don’t like this every flash is a fee. Still have to pay the tuner and Dyno time.
Did you go with a base Osiris set up or the better one? I want the multi map setup and launch control. if I’m not mistaking I’ll be spending 750 and still having to pay for reflashes once the year is up that seems greedy to me.
please someone correct me if I’m wrong I’d love to feel better about the cost of the programming if I am mistaken.
Have you heard anything about the buddy club low mount seat rails? that’s what I was planning on going with two of my buddies had great results in two different makes.
The time of year you do the tune should not matter as the car automatically adjusts for temperature changes. Otherwise you would need to re-tune it every day. It took so long to get in touch with Jon at Z1 that my data logs varied from 80 degrees to almost 0 degrees as we went into winter.
I got the mail-in Uprev tune from Z1 and it was garbage. The car kept going into limp mode in 3rd gear under power or when bogging the engine. I bought a cable that I am still waiting to be refunded and had to get multiple tunes e-mailed to me and waste a ton of time data logging to get it sorted. I definitely do not recommend this route.
Where did you see anything about launch control?
Buddy club does not make seat rails for a sedan or do you have a coupe? If you do have a coupe, it will be much easier to find rails. I am 99% sure Bride is the only one that makes rails for the sedan. The Buddy club rails you mention are for a fixed back race seat. Might be ok if that is what you are after, but not terribly practical for the street.
My body shop guy will finally start working on lowering my seat rails on Monday so I can fit in the Sparco seat with a helmet again. He is going to have them powder coated too.
He thinks he can lower about 1.5" in front and even more in back if I want. I think I might have him go another 1/4" to 1/2" lower in the back just to give me a little more clearance, but probably not much more than that to try to keep the seat bottom relatively similar to stock.
This means I get to haul the heavy stock seat up from the basement this weekend and re-install it. I wonder if it will feel weird sitting in it compared to the Sparco seat.
I put the stock seat back in last night while my rails get lowered and I was amazed how much I slide around compared to the Sparco seat. Wow!
For those of you who have replaced seats, I also learned that you cannot bypass the airbag sensor wire with the factory seat plugged in. There must be another sensor in the main wiring harness as I got a flashing airbag light as soon as I turned the car on. Whoops!
Changing car seats in your G like you're just putting on a different hat. That seems kind of hardcore for a daily driver.
Well I am pretty hardcore.
I have swapped seats in that car so many times that I can almost do it in my sleep now. It is actually pretty easy. Just 4 bolts, 3 plugs, and a seat belt. The tricky part is maneuvering the stock seat in and out of the back door without scratching any paint or ripping up any trim pieces, especially since it is so HEAVY.
I was thinking, the only things I swap with the seasons are my wheels and my shift ****. But swapping seats for winter... damn.
That got me thinking about shift *****. What are you using? Spent the last 20 minutes eyeballing Raceng *****. High quality stuff, but nothing stood out.
What would it be like to have a piston style **** matched to a STS?
My seat is just out temporarily as I have new seat brackets made to lower it so I can fit with a helmet. I miss the cloth Sparco in the winter as it is not nearly as cold. Once I get that sorted the stock seat will probably never go back in the car.
I run a Raceseng Sphereology shift **** and it is awesome! The Delrin cover on the outside makes it not too cold in the winter and not too hot in the summer. There are a few different covers you can get and they are easily interchangeable. The stainless core/top looks really nice with our interior too. It looks like a factory part.
I think your shift **** is weighted if I remember correctly, but if not and you get a new one, make sure you get one that is weighted. You wouldn't think it, but it shifts a lot better with just a little added weight.
Does anyone know how to clear out the flashing red air bag light on the dash? I thought there was a way to do by cycling the ignition. My code reader/clearer is not doing the trick. I can do it at work tomorrow, but just thought I would ask. Thanks!
The Raceng Shereology is 475 grams, similar to my Ti **** from Lathwerx, which is 450 grams, plus the weight of an aluminum standoff, so... same. I think it's pretty close to OEM, but maybe a little heavier. Did you ever weigh the OEM ****?
I wonder if a heavier **** would matter. I know there 600 to 800 gram ***** out there.
I thought you had a weighted shift **** so that's good. I feel like this shift **** is heavier than stock, but maybe not. What I do know is that the lightened Delrin shift **** I had before was actually notchy and hard to shift because it was so light. Going from that to the Raceseng Shereology was a huge improvement in shift quality for me.
Physics tells me that an even heavier **** should slide into gear easier, but there has to come a point where it is too heavy and it slams into gear. I think the shift ***** we have are a pretty good weight. If I were you, I would only get the Raceseng Sphereology if you like the design and want one shift **** for the whole year. If it is that close in weight to what you have now it should shift exactly the same.
The Raceng Shereology is 475 grams, similar to my Ti **** from Lathwerx, which is 450 grams, plus the weight of an aluminum standoff, so... same. I think it's pretty close to OEM, but maybe a little heavier. Did you ever weigh the OEM ****?
I wonder if a heavier **** would matter. I know there 600 to 800 gram ***** out there.
I like that. Would you continue to use the existion from lathe works?
Last edited by Lego_Maniac; 01-07-2018 at 07:30 PM.
If I were you, I would only get the Raceseng Sphereology if you like the design and want one shift **** for the whole year. If it is that close in weight to what you have now it should shift exactly the same.
Actually, I was thinking it might be nice to own a number of different designs, to switch things up on whim. However, with the Stone interior, I'm somewhat limited to non-black designs. My winter **** is black, and looks odd because of it. It has a similar plastic material like yours, because winter, and is noticeably lighter than its titanium twin. That said, I've never felt the lighter **** mattered in comparison.
Originally Posted by Lego_Maniac
I like that. Would you continue to use the existion from lathe works?
Only if it were needed with a new ****.
For some reason I'm feeling curious about the piston design matched up with my STS, and probably without the extension.
12-31-2017, 12:32 AM
