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I agree that it is such a nice change in driveability. I am just glad the option exists to change it in our cars. There are so many cars that suck to drive stick because of the clutch (Mazdaspeed6). The other thing I knew I wanted to get rid of was all the slop in the driveline causing the shifter to move around. My set up now is very good with the upgrades and will probably be perfect once I get the rear subframe bushing inserts.
When you talk about adjusting "the ****," I assume you are referring to the clevis. If you look really close at the two thin metal tabs near the lock nut those are part of a collar that actually clamps down to hold it in place until you tighten up the lock nut. I think that is what you were asking.
I kept the clutch pedal at the standard setting which I think is close to OEM or a little higher than the brake. It is a touch high for me with my seat being higher, but that is an experiment for another day if I even do it since I will be bringing the seat height down. I am more concerned about brake pedal height for heel and toe down shifting on the track.
I wonder if I will gain anything messing around with the other adjustments. It already feels so much better than stock I am not really sure more adjustment is necessary.
When you talk about adjusting "the ****," I assume you are referring to the clevis. If you look really close at the two thin metal tabs near the lock nut those are part of a collar that actually clamps down to hold it in place until you tighten up the lock nut. I think that is what you were asking.
It's been a few years. I think I have version 1.something.
Oh wow, that entire section of my clutch assembly is very different than yours. Instead of the big white and black adjustment ****, mine has a window with numbers and one allen bolt. (Just above and to the left of the arrow)
The infamous Rochester plaid table cloth with car parts. Classic
Infamous?
I attribute your take on Z1's transmission mount, and your STS, with my decisions to follow suit. And I like to think I've inspired you to get this pedal. Now if I could only persuade you how awesome short rear gears would be for your 6MT Sedan. I'm convinced if you had 30 seconds of seat time in my car, you'd move mountains to make it happen.
Whoops, freudian slip I suppose due the inherent evil color pattern of the table cloth. No, more likely due to the strong cold medicine I am currently taking. I fixed it.
Anyway, I do attribute your fondness for the RJM pedal assembly with influencing my decision. And I am strongly considering changing my rear gearing based on your recommendations as well.
However, our speed limits were recently raised, meaning that I can now safely cruise at about 75-80 mph on the highway to and from work. I really like that I am at lower rpms with a 6spd. in this car compared to my previous Mitsubishi Evo X that screamed at 72 mph in its top 5th gear due to the gearing. I would really like to avoid that.
I am also illogically hopeful that this ongoing tuning (yes, still not finished...) with Jon at Z1 has made enough of an improvement in performance to keep me happy. Tunes 6 and 8 made huge improvements in performance (now on tune 11). But we all know those gains are only temporarily satisfying before the car feels slow again...
Your 6th gear highway cruising will bump up, no doubt. But it's not as dramatic as you seem worried about. It was one of my concerns leading up to this mod, too. I was also worried about 1st gear being so short it was useless, or spinning 1st and 2nd all the time, or mileage going into the toilet. But none of that happened or mattered. The car drives very normal, just with a whole lot more low-end grunt. All of which is so-o-o muscle car, I love it.
In August I got to drive Zahy's 6MT sedan, which was modded and tuned with OEM gears, and I remember being very pleasantly surprised how well that car compared to mine. If I had to put a broad assessment on Tune vs. rear gears, I'd say the gearing has more impact than the tune does. Do them both, and you're maxing out what you can do with this car while still N/A.
I recently saw someone's dyno graph before/after the gears... here on the forum somewhere. The gears actually reduced peak HP and torque, while moving top-of-curve left on the graph, which you would typically think is crazy. Why do that, right? But it also moved the entire line left, so that you have more HP and torque sooner than later. Besides, the daily driver lives under the curve. Only the 1/4 mile dragster or WOT highway freak lives for the top-of-curve. So you end up shifting more often and sooner... which is no big deal, because with that new RJM pedal and your short-throw shifter, it's a joy to shift this car.
Apparently he installed Z1's poly motor mounts recently, and I'm trying to get him to talk about that. I know that's something you and I are both interested in.
Not sure if you remember me asking you about this, after sitting down thinking about the direction of the car I have always had a clear picture of the car being supercharged ( I’ve had turbo cars ) but never SC so I opted to take your advice and port the uppermyself and send my lower to a local legend have to tell you that I’m so happy with the results. Not sure why people say you need a tune after everything but as of now I still don’t have a tune with all my mods and I’ve never seen a CEL.... I’m hoping to hit the tack and Dyno in the next two weeks and see how it does, it feels very strong. The credit for the phase2 cap goes to you!!
Like the seat choice definitely wish that was one of the first mods I would have done. The stock seats are pretty much my biggest gripe with the car hoping to have one soon.
Welcome to the club and nice work on the upper and lower intakes!
You are probably running really lean right now, which is why most people do a tune. You will also probably gain a lot of power with a good tune.
Glad to hear you are doing a dyno tune. I think my nightmare with Z1 trying to get my mail-in tune is finally sorted after 6 months of trying to get a cable and 2+ months of trying to sort the tune.
I hope you like the phase 2 cap. It was really good for me to find accurate temps. Now I have a bluetooth OBDII ap for my phone that I hope to use on the track this spring showing digital gauges when I mount the phone to the windshield.
Good luck with your seat upgrades. I have a thread going in the sedan forum that details everything you need. Not too bad to do, but be prepared to wait a few months for the Bride seat bracket to arrive. If your head is close to hitting the roof it will probably be a touch closer depending on the seat you get. I am waiting to have a guy in my body shop at work fabricate some lower seat rail brackets for me so I can wear a helmet again for track days. (I had to recline the stock seat back quite a bit before)
11-28-2017, 02:11 PM
No, more likely due to the strong cold medicine I am currently taking. I fixed it.
) with Jon at Z1 has made enough of an improvement in performance to keep me happy. Tunes 6 and 8 made huge improvements in performance (now on tune 11). But we all know those gains are only temporarily satisfying before the car feels slow again...
