Rochester's new G
07-09-2018, 12:27 PM
#2266
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one other thing that you might try is experimenting with some dye to blend it if you're feeling brave...I have see n some ppl on here try it on the whole seat to make them red with the result looking quite terrible, but on a single section blending the extant colour it might not be so bad...
I appreciate the insights, Hashim. Thanks.
07-09-2018, 02:27 PM
#2267
I just sold my pristine seat bottom for $200. If you can find a gray sport seat in good shape, I would probably go that route. Who knows how long a re-dye would even last. Taking the seat in and out is actually pretty easy. (Trust me. I've done it way too many times) Then it should just require transferring over the wiring harness and adjuster buttons from your original seat.
If you find one used, make sure to ask them to package it extremely well. When Nissan sent my new seat bottom they shipped it just in a box with no packaging. The box was absolutely destroyed from shipping since the seat bottom weighs about 50 lbs and probably got thrown all around during shipping. There were even big holes in the bottom from the seat rails. Surprisingly, it was still in great shape. I'm not sure how that was possible.
If you find one used, make sure to ask them to package it extremely well. When Nissan sent my new seat bottom they shipped it just in a box with no packaging. The box was absolutely destroyed from shipping since the seat bottom weighs about 50 lbs and probably got thrown all around during shipping. There were even big holes in the bottom from the seat rails. Surprisingly, it was still in great shape. I'm not sure how that was possible.
07-10-2018, 08:26 PM
#2268
4DRZ makes a very good point. I actually bought an entire lower seat assembly that was in very good condition off ebay for $100. It was sacrificed so I could pull out the air bag weight sensor out of it, but if you keep you eye out you should be able to find a good deal on one.
07-10-2018, 09:01 PM
#2269
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4DRZ makes a very good point. I actually bought an entire lower seat assembly that was in very good condition off ebay for $100. It was sacrificed so I could pull out the air bag weight sensor out of it, but if you keep you eye out you should be able to find a good deal on one.
07-11-2018, 09:04 AM
#2270
DIY Cheapskate/Mod
Hmm, maybe its the clothes you wear? lots of rough denim? I have 126k km on the car, (78k 'muricas) beige seats, and besides a scratch I put in with a butt zipper, and some minor wrinkles on the bolsters, the leather is pristine. That looks almost as bad as mistreated semi alanine leather on a Q60.
I guess its time to grab a convertible seat and retrofit the cooled seat function into your G
. Its been done with a G I saw at my mechanic's place. I joke of course, its a heap of cash.
I guess its time to grab a convertible seat and retrofit the cooled seat function into your G
. Its been done with a G I saw at my mechanic's place. I joke of course, its a heap of cash.
07-11-2018, 09:12 AM
#2271
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IDK, hexotic. I think it's just a defect in the leather where it's breaking down. It's not the clothes I wear. 99% of the time it's just normal blue jeans.
Anyway... car is at my old mechanic's shop today for a coolant flush, brake & clutch fluid swap. While he has the car, I'm asking him to give his assessment on my transmission noise, that I think is the input shaft bearing.
Anyway... car is at my old mechanic's shop today for a coolant flush, brake & clutch fluid swap. While he has the car, I'm asking him to give his assessment on my transmission noise, that I think is the input shaft bearing.
07-11-2018, 07:10 PM
#2273
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Some basic maintenance at the shop. Materials and lift time... all in for $290. That's pretty fair, IMO. All OEM fluids.
I asked him to assess the lifetime expectations of my brakes, and he said they're fine, easily good for another couple of years considering how little I actually drive the car. Granted, there's some rust on the rotor edges, and starting in at spots at the hats, but the big Akebono rotors are smooth, and there's still plenty of pad in each caliper.
On the one hand, I'm kind of disappointed because I've been wanting a 2-piece-rotor brake upgrade, with some better pads. But on the other hand... that's money best spent when the brakes are failing. Anyway, I need to reorganize my plans and push brakes down the calendar somewhere.
Now for this transmission noise - It could be the input shaft bearing, but he didn't think so; that a failing input shaft bearing would likely start to growl loudly under load, and it doesn't. He thinks it's the throw-out bearing, and not so much that it's failing, but experiencing a resonance when resting. It might actually be something that always was, and I only just now am starting to notice it. Or it might be something that will never get worse, and be like this for the lifetime of the car. Or it might fail and take out my clutch and flywheel.
I think it's new. And I think I'm just going to lay low until or if it ever gets worse. And if need be, he said it's a two-hour job to swap in a new throw-out bearing. Maybe three. The bearing itself is inexpensive.
As for the rest of the car, all aspects of the suspension, exhaust and steering are solid. However, one of the lower PS lines has a slow leak. I have to research those parts and get on that.
- Drained the brake system, and bled the lines with new fluid.
- Drained the clutch oil, and bled the line with new fluid.
- Flushed and filled the engine coolant.
I asked him to assess the lifetime expectations of my brakes, and he said they're fine, easily good for another couple of years considering how little I actually drive the car. Granted, there's some rust on the rotor edges, and starting in at spots at the hats, but the big Akebono rotors are smooth, and there's still plenty of pad in each caliper.
On the one hand, I'm kind of disappointed because I've been wanting a 2-piece-rotor brake upgrade, with some better pads. But on the other hand... that's money best spent when the brakes are failing. Anyway, I need to reorganize my plans and push brakes down the calendar somewhere.
Now for this transmission noise - It could be the input shaft bearing, but he didn't think so; that a failing input shaft bearing would likely start to growl loudly under load, and it doesn't. He thinks it's the throw-out bearing, and not so much that it's failing, but experiencing a resonance when resting. It might actually be something that always was, and I only just now am starting to notice it. Or it might be something that will never get worse, and be like this for the lifetime of the car. Or it might fail and take out my clutch and flywheel.
I think it's new. And I think I'm just going to lay low until or if it ever gets worse. And if need be, he said it's a two-hour job to swap in a new throw-out bearing. Maybe three. The bearing itself is inexpensive.
As for the rest of the car, all aspects of the suspension, exhaust and steering are solid. However, one of the lower PS lines has a slow leak. I have to research those parts and get on that.
Last edited by Rochester; 07-12-2018 at 09:33 AM.
07-13-2018, 12:34 PM
#2275
DIY Cheapskate/Mod
OK, here's a picture of the seat. I'm at 39K miles, with leather that was cleaned often throughout the first 20K, and conditioned regularly with Leatherique since then. It's simply wearing through the middle, and there's no stopping it.
I know it's not a big deal, but it's so obviously not good that it bugs me every time I go to sit in the car. I've got the name and number of the guy the local leather shops use for repair work, which I'm hoping to pursue later this year. It's only going to get worse.
I know it's not a big deal, but it's so obviously not good that it bugs me every time I go to sit in the car. I've got the name and number of the guy the local leather shops use for repair work, which I'm hoping to pursue later this year. It's only going to get worse.
07-13-2018, 03:19 PM
#2276
Some basic maintenance at the shop. Materials and lift time... all in for $290. That's pretty fair, IMO. All OEM fluids.
I asked him to assess the lifetime expectations of my brakes, and he said they're fine, easily good for another couple of years considering how little I actually drive the car. Granted, there's some rust on the rotor edges, and starting in at spots at the hats, but the big Akebono rotors are smooth, and there's still plenty of pad in each caliper.
On the one hand, I'm kind of disappointed because I've been wanting a 2-piece-rotor brake upgrade, with some better pads. But on the other hand... that's money best spent when the brakes are failing. Anyway, I need to reorganize my plans and push brakes down the calendar somewhere.
Now for this transmission noise - It could be the input shaft bearing, but he didn't think so; that a failing input shaft bearing would likely start to growl loudly under load, and it doesn't. He thinks it's the throw-out bearing, and not so much that it's failing, but experiencing a resonance when resting. It might actually be something that always was, and I only just now am starting to notice it. Or it might be something that will never get worse, and be like this for the lifetime of the car. Or it might fail and take out my clutch and flywheel.
I think it's new. And I think I'm just going to lay low until or if it ever gets worse. And if need be, he said it's a two-hour job to swap in a new throw-out bearing. Maybe three. The bearing itself is inexpensive.
As for the rest of the car, all aspects of the suspension, exhaust and steering are solid. However, one of the lower PS lines has a slow leak. I have to research those parts and get on that.
- Drained the brake system, and bled the lines with new fluid.
- Drained the clutch oil, and bled the line with new fluid.
- Flushed and filled the engine coolant.
I asked him to assess the lifetime expectations of my brakes, and he said they're fine, easily good for another couple of years considering how little I actually drive the car. Granted, there's some rust on the rotor edges, and starting in at spots at the hats, but the big Akebono rotors are smooth, and there's still plenty of pad in each caliper.
On the one hand, I'm kind of disappointed because I've been wanting a 2-piece-rotor brake upgrade, with some better pads. But on the other hand... that's money best spent when the brakes are failing. Anyway, I need to reorganize my plans and push brakes down the calendar somewhere.
Now for this transmission noise - It could be the input shaft bearing, but he didn't think so; that a failing input shaft bearing would likely start to growl loudly under load, and it doesn't. He thinks it's the throw-out bearing, and not so much that it's failing, but experiencing a resonance when resting. It might actually be something that always was, and I only just now am starting to notice it. Or it might be something that will never get worse, and be like this for the lifetime of the car. Or it might fail and take out my clutch and flywheel.
I think it's new. And I think I'm just going to lay low until or if it ever gets worse. And if need be, he said it's a two-hour job to swap in a new throw-out bearing. Maybe three. The bearing itself is inexpensive.
As for the rest of the car, all aspects of the suspension, exhaust and steering are solid. However, one of the lower PS lines has a slow leak. I have to research those parts and get on that.
At least a PS line is really just a rubber hose. If you ever plan on doing any more autocrosses, this would also be a good time to at least upgrade the PS fluid as our cars like to cook the fluid and spray it all over the engine bay. I swapped to Redline fluid and they actually recommended their ATF fluid. I even kept the same PS cooler and the issue has not resurfaced, even after a number of track days.
07-13-2018, 03:22 PM
#2277
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I thought that sounded like a throw out bearing.
At least a PS line is really just a rubber hose. If you ever plan on doing any more autocrosses, this would also be a good time to at least upgrade the PS fluid as our cars like to cook the fluid and spray it all over the engine bay. I swapped to Redline fluid and they actually recommended their ATF fluid. I even kept the same PS cooler and the issue has not resurfaced, even after a number of track days.
At least a PS line is really just a rubber hose. If you ever plan on doing any more autocrosses, this would also be a good time to at least upgrade the PS fluid as our cars like to cook the fluid and spray it all over the engine bay. I swapped to Redline fluid and they actually recommended their ATF fluid. I even kept the same PS cooler and the issue has not resurfaced, even after a number of track days.
So many fluids...
engine oil
differential gear oil
transmission gear oil
brake fluid
clutch fluid
coolant fluid
PS fluid
Last edited by Rochester; 07-13-2018 at 03:36 PM.
07-14-2018, 06:27 AM
#2278
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Nope. It's a whole collection of tubes and hoses sold as a single piece, called the power steering return line assembly. For about $65.
https://www.infinitipartscheap.com/p...yABEgI8qvD_BwE
https://www.infinitipartscheap.com/p...yABEgI8qvD_BwE
07-14-2018, 10:23 AM
#2279
Nope. It's a whole collection of tubes and hoses sold as a single piece, called the power steering return line assembly. For about $65.
https://www.infinitipartscheap.com/p...yABEgI8qvD_BwE
https://www.infinitipartscheap.com/p...yABEgI8qvD_BwE
07-14-2018, 12:37 PM
#2280
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When I picked the car up, the mechanic said the lower PS lines were leaking. He repositioned the clamps and told me to research parts replacements. So when I saw the whole thing sold as a single part, I assumed that was it. Are you saying there's more?
Clearly I need to roll the car up on ramps, drop the undertray and look for myself.
Clearly I need to roll the car up on ramps, drop the undertray and look for myself.
Last edited by Rochester; 07-19-2018 at 07:43 AM.