Brake Pad stuck
 

Hi everyone, I did change my rotors and pads today for my 2012 g37x. When I finished bedding the brakes I realized my passenger rear brake pad was stuck all the time and heat was extraordinary. I took everything on the passenger rear and try to find the problem but couldn't find anything. The stuck pad was one facing the outside, not the inner one.
I took caliper pads and bolts and put them back again. Try it again and the problem still there outside pad is stucking the rotor.
What do you guys thinking might be a problem?

I had something similar happen over the winter and caused one of my inner pads to wear prematurely. I believe it was the caliper bolt seizing up. When I replaced the pads, the new pads were an extremely tight fit, so I just shaved a tiny bit off the ends so they fit as they should have. That wasn't a problem previously, I just needed a quick fix and that's what you get when you get cheap pads from autozone. My suggestions are ensure that your pads are seated correctly and aren't being forced into the brackets. I always coat the caliper bolts and the non-contact areas of the pads (bit on the outside that your calipers touch, a bit where it inserts into the brackets) with nickel based anti seize. I haven't had an issue since.

Sounds like an issue with the caliper bolt seizing (does it move back and forth easily?) or the pad is a little tight. If you haven't already, clean off the bolt and apply some new caliper lube and make sure you clean up the caliper around where the pads sit with a stiff brush and maybe some brake cleaner to remove any surface rust. They should be able to move back and forth with relative ease and as FreightTrain said apply some anti seize around the edge and on the back of the pads making sure not to get any on the rotor.

Hey man, you sure you put the guide pins in the correct way? There is one for the top and a different one for the bottom. Putting them in opposite will cause the rubber to bind and cause the caliper to seize.

Also, make sure the drag reduction clips that hold the pads in place (that attach to the caliper bracket) are not rusted or bent in any way. This will definitely cause weird issues.

Another thing is if they are dirty or if there is dirt or old grease inside the guide pin slots, it will seize still. Try to get a stiff pipe cleaner brush type thing to clean them out and make sure you either replace or clean the actual guide pins thoroughly. I recommend replacing the rubbers on the pins every time you change your pads.

Lastly, make sure you push the caliper all the way back in before putting the new pads in, and if you can't get it to go all the way back in, the caliper itself needs to be replaced or refurbished. (piston and rings need replacing)

you get salt and rust on the back of the pads it will do this. Thats why you apply copper grease on pads when you change them