m3clubracer

After changing the rear pads and front lines to SS I have the BRAKE, VDC, and traction control lights on upon initial start. The brake light turns off under hard braking only and then comes back on about 2-3 seconds after a full or partial stop. BTW the reservoir is full. The crazy brake light activity started immediately after this event. I had to bleed the brakes excessively as the StopTech banjo bolts DON'T FIT the base calipers and the reservoir went dry while trying use them. Stupid. I am not an electrical expert.
Is this most likely the brake light switch at the pedal, or speed sensors, or ???
The pedal is more firm now than before but is there air in the ABS and it needs to be cycled or bled?
Does the $tealer need to turn these off?

Thanks in advance for reading.

Gabebapes

check to see u ddnt unplug speed sensors by mistake

m3clubracer

There is no chance of that. Negative. Thanks. In fact I even took them out of the hub blew them off and made sure that they weren't damaged and then reinstall them trying to diagnose this

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

I would look over EVERYTHING you touched during this brake job. Make sure all the wheel sensors are plugged in and the reservoir is at max level.

JSolo

iTrader: (14)

Maybe the abs module needs to be bled? My understanding is this requires the nissan tool to toggle it on/off.

Baadnewsburr

iTrader: (3)

a sensor may be bad without exhibiting physical damage, someone else posted about a similar condition a week or two ago(Heres the link: https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...or-issues.html) and the problem was resolved by changing out an abs sensor...IIRC he bought a cheap aftermarket one, but used oem ones are also avilable on ebay for super cheap...if your other attempts to fix it don't work maybe try that...good luck and post up how you resolve it.

m3clubracer

Thanks everyone.
I looked at everything I touched 3x now and nothing wrong outwardly. I got a $55 brake light switch and that didn't turn off the lights. What is that other switch next to the brown brake light switch? I already have a wheel speed sensor loaded into both gazillion and fleabay and will probably get one anyway. Luckily they are the same R/L. Has anyone priced new rear ones...staggering! 8-/

I bled the brakes with the ignition in the on position. The brakes work great/better now and would be worse if the ABS unit had air in it. I even initiated the ABS during a panic stop to cycle the fluid there but the fluid goes directly through it anyway. Interestingly Porches (996 alt least) have nutty ABS and once a friend had me help him bleed his brakes after he botched the job and come to find out the only way to do it is have the $tealer do it. Not come across anyone here having dealer bleed their ABS.

I did get some fluid on the connection to the sensor on the reservoir and cleaned/compressed air the connector and sensor and that didn't help.

The baffling thing is that the light goes OFF while braking and rolling and back ON while not, the OPPOSITE of the low fluid condition. It takes about 3-4s for the light to come back on. I'm deciding whether to suffer the cost of the dreaded diagnostic machine or keep throwing money at shotgun swag diag.

Gabebapes

The one that made the post above was me. I bought a $10 speed sensor but my friend works at a shop so I got it scanned for free. He says they charge $50. If the sensor is the issue and you dont want to get it scanned once you install it you drive for a minute and the lights should turn off no ecu reset required