Need Rear and front camber arms with swifts?!?!
11-03-2016, 09:57 AM
#1
Need Rear and front camber arms with swifts?!?!
Hey guys I just got an alignment after I dropped my 10' g37xS sedan on swifts and I got some bad news....
The mechanic told me I would need adjustable camber arms for the front and also rear camber arms.
I've read on the forums that it's usually a 50/50 thing that you would need rear camber arms at the most but they're telling me I need both!
Do I need the camber arms like he said?
How much wear on the tire would I see and how fast would they wear if I didn't get the arms?
Wasn't expecting to spend another $600
EDIT: how did the left rear get WORSE after the alignment?!?!?!
Before:
After alignment:
The mechanic told me I would need adjustable camber arms for the front and also rear camber arms.
I've read on the forums that it's usually a 50/50 thing that you would need rear camber arms at the most but they're telling me I need both!
Do I need the camber arms like he said?
How much wear on the tire would I see and how fast would they wear if I didn't get the arms?
Wasn't expecting to spend another $600
EDIT: how did the left rear get WORSE after the alignment?!?!?!
Before:
After alignment:
11-03-2016, 10:14 AM
#2
Registered Member
Camber is normal with any amount of drop. With Swifts, the drop is pretty moderate so most people don't bother getting adjustable camber arms. However, if you wanted to get your specs as close to stock (around -1) then you would need adjustable arms. Not a big deal, you shouldn't see too much tire wear with the camber you're at now.
The following users liked this post:
Mattyem (11-07-2016)
11-03-2016, 10:40 AM
#3
Registered Member
I would at minimum do the rears. You will absolutely notice tire wear issues in the left rear. There's a lot more to an alignment than being "within OEM spec".
The following users liked this post:
Mattyem (11-07-2016)
11-03-2016, 10:48 AM
#4
Originally Posted by jfisher
I would at minimum do the rears. You will absolutely notice tire wear issues in the left rear. There's a lot more to an alignment than being "within OEM spec".
11-03-2016, 10:51 AM
#5
Registered Member
11-03-2016, 11:01 AM
#7
Registered Member
One of the best "mods" I've ever done to my car is have it aligned by a quality alignment shop that does custom alignments.
Trending Topics
11-03-2016, 11:08 AM
#8
Originally Posted by jfisher
You did not get unlucky. Anyone that is driving their car with these springs and no camber kits is running a jank setup.
One of the best "mods" I've ever done to my car is have it aligned by a quality alignment shop that does custom alignments.
One of the best "mods" I've ever done to my car is have it aligned by a quality alignment shop that does custom alignments.
11-03-2016, 01:30 PM
#10
toe is what kills tires more than camber, the shop recommends the camber kit since you have an awd? you want full tire contact for all 4. Camber is optional but if you want tires to last get the kit.
The following users liked this post:
Mattyem (11-07-2016)
11-04-2016, 10:09 AM
#11
When I lowered my RWD G on springs I just bit the bullet and bought the whole F&R SPC kit, this has surely paid for itself over the last 5+ years as I've had perfect tread wear. Like Jfisher said, not getting the full kit is taking a shortcut, many do it, but if you plan on keeping your G for several years you'll have that cost covered in less frequent tire purchases and having your G aligned to factory specs is a good thing for a large majority of drivers.****And yes, those alignment results are within what's to be expected. And camber/toe are give & take when setting them up, that shop had to boost your camber to get that toe proper in back, so that's why you see an increase there. The OEM adjustment is so minimal that there's really not much they can do 
11-04-2016, 11:23 AM
#12
Originally Posted by blnewt
When I lowered my RWD G on springs I just bit the bullet and bought the whole F&R SPC kit, this has surely paid for itself over the last 5+ years as I've had perfect tread wear. Like Jfisher said, not getting the full kit is taking a shortcut, many do it, but if you plan on keeping your G for several years you'll have that cost covered in less frequent tire purchases and having your G aligned to factory specs is a good thing for a large majority of drivers.****And yes, those alignment results are within what's to be expected. And camber/toe are give & take when setting them up, that shop had to boost your camber to get that toe proper in back, so that's why you see an increase there. The OEM adjustment is so minimal that there's really not much they can do
I will be purchasing the full SPC kit. Even though I really never wanted/planned too
11-04-2016, 01:54 PM
#13
I'll be the voice on the other side - -2* camber isn't bad at all. It's the toe that wears the tire. For the rear, all you need is the camber/toe bolts, you don't need the arms. The bolts are $35. If you're just on springs, you aren't going to be changing the ride height a lot, so if you can get it where you like it once, with just bolts, you'll be able to get back there whenever you get another alignment.
On another car, I have relatively infinite alignment adjustability, and I chose -2.5* all around. Tire wear is fine.
For reference, I have Swifts on my RWD coupe, and I'm at -1.8/-1.9* on the front, and -1.5* in the rear for camber. 1/16th toe in on the front, and 1/32* toe in on the rear. Perfect tire wear. If anything, I wear my outside fronts more because of the toe. Rears are perfectly flat across. I have all stock arms and just camber/toe bolts. I didn't want aftermarket arms because I wanted to keep rubber bushings in those components.
On another car, I have relatively infinite alignment adjustability, and I chose -2.5* all around. Tire wear is fine.
For reference, I have Swifts on my RWD coupe, and I'm at -1.8/-1.9* on the front, and -1.5* in the rear for camber. 1/16th toe in on the front, and 1/32* toe in on the rear. Perfect tire wear. If anything, I wear my outside fronts more because of the toe. Rears are perfectly flat across. I have all stock arms and just camber/toe bolts. I didn't want aftermarket arms because I wanted to keep rubber bushings in those components.
The following users liked this post:
Mattyem (11-07-2016)
11-04-2016, 02:02 PM
#14
Originally Posted by RadioFlyer
I'll be the voice on the other side - -2* camber isn't bad at all. It's the toe that wears the tire. For the rear, all you need is the camber/toe bolts, you don't need the arms. The bolts are $35. If you're just on springs, you aren't going to be changing the ride height a lot, so if you can get it where you like it once, with just bolts, you'll be able to get back there whenever you get another alignment.
On another car, I have relatively infinite alignment adjustability, and I chose -2.5* all around. Tire wear is fine.
For reference, I have Swifts on my RWD coupe, and I'm at -1.8/-1.9* on the front, and -1.5* in the rear for camber. 1/16th toe in on the front, and 1/32* toe in on the rear. Perfect tire wear. If anything, I wear my outside fronts more because of the toe. Rears are perfectly flat across. I have all stock arms and just camber/toe bolts. I didn't want aftermarket arms because I wanted to keep rubber bushings in those components.
On another car, I have relatively infinite alignment adjustability, and I chose -2.5* all around. Tire wear is fine.
For reference, I have Swifts on my RWD coupe, and I'm at -1.8/-1.9* on the front, and -1.5* in the rear for camber. 1/16th toe in on the front, and 1/32* toe in on the rear. Perfect tire wear. If anything, I wear my outside fronts more because of the toe. Rears are perfectly flat across. I have all stock arms and just camber/toe bolts. I didn't want aftermarket arms because I wanted to keep rubber bushings in those components.
11-04-2016, 02:42 PM
#15
That's the one huge advantage in front, the toe is fully adjustable through the tie rods, and another thing in your favor is they were able to keep your camber balanced at -2.1. As far as having "perfect" tread wear at over -2 camber, I doubt perfect would be what I would say, but reasonable would be more accurate, at least IME. And RadioFlyer makes a good point w/ going 4 bolts in back vs. the rear arms. There's been cases where the aftermarket arms make contact w/ aftermarket sways, and for a milder drop the camber bolt/toe bolt setup will get you in spec. If you have a dremel tool then give this thread a look. And what you might want to do is get the rear bolt kit (2 kits total) get them in stalled, get it realigned and just monitor your treadwear in front. If the wear is reasonable in your opinion then continue on, if in 6 months you see uneven wear then you can get the aftermarket front UCAs. Here's that link~ https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-template.html
The following users liked this post:
Mattyem (11-07-2016)