blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Do you have any alignment data? Like Slartibartfast mentioned, toe is more than likely quite a bit off spec and combined w/ heavy camber you'll burn through the inner edges of your tires way too quick. From the pics it looks like you've got room to go quite a bit less camber in front, the rear looks like you're a hair from the fender so not much can be done there w/out pulling the fender edge. If you can take closeups right from the side where the tire edge meets the fender it would be easier to say for sure.
BTW, very nice coupe you've got there and I could see why you'd like to make those wheels work, very good looking combo.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

Thank you blnewt! Yeah, the wheels were definitely the deciding factor that made me jump on the car. I'm not sure if I knew it was going to cause this much issues if it would have deterred me from picking up the car though because I really do like the look of it. lol

As far as specs go, I don't have any data but the previous owner did mention once that he believes the rear was set at -4 degrees. No info on the front or printout though.

At the moment, I can't post any up-close pictures because the wheels are off to be taken to the shop for new tires. Once I get everything back I will take close-up pictures and post back.

blnewt, when you said "pulling the fender edge," do you mean removing the splash guard cover stuff above the wheel, inside the fender well? If that cover was removed, I could see how it could make a bit more room down there but are there any negative consequences to having that cover removed? Mud/water flying into places that shouldn't have it there?

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Pulling the fender means pulling the fender edge further out, it's not that easy to do without looking strange, takes an experienced body man to do it right. Not something I'd recommend without going through other options first. -4 degrees camber is real aggressive, and if you have toe that's even slightly out of spec at that high camber you'll burn up those new tires. Before putting any miles on those new tires I'd get the alignment checked and for the short term getting the toe in spec would be a priority, then try to get the camber as low as you can without hitting the fender edges. With a stretched tire mount like you currently have you might be able to get that rear camber more manageable, and like I said, looks like you've got decent room in the front if that camber is excessive like the back.

speedracer g37

iTrader: (4)

how many miles did you drive and what condition were the tires in when you bought them? from the pictures, it doesn't look like that much camber, front or back. are the pictures you posted of the tires just the fronts, fronts and rears? if you roll in to an infiniti dealership, they usually have an alignment check station in the reception bay. get a reading and see how far of spec you are.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

From this pic it looks like pretty high camber in back, the fronts look pretty good though. A pic straight down the sides would be easier to tell though.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

I bought the car with 45,079 miles. It currently has 45,896 miles on it right now so I've put 817 miles on it since the middle of July. I don't remember exactly how bad the tires were when I first picked up the car but I do remember that the front inner tires were balding already. I can't say for sure if the white lines were showing yet though.

The pictures are just the front tires. The first 2 are the front driver side and the last 3 are the front passenger side.

The previous owner had the car for 3 years and put about 20k miles on it. I THINK that the front tires are the original tires when he got the rims so I'm assuming it has maybe about 20k miles on it? I can't say for sure though because he stopped replying to my e-mails awhile back.

The back tires still have a decent amount of tread left so I'm thinking that he probably had to get a new set for the rear some time in the past 3 years. Again, this is just my best guess given the limited data I have of the history of the car.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Those white lines are cord. All of the outer rubber has been worn away and now the outermost structural layer is showing. That layer has poor traction compared to the rubber tread.

Sunny G

iTrader: (1)

Is the car on coilovers or Springs because if it's on coils you can raise it up a little and that will give a smaller amount of camber. How much? Is totally dependent on how much you raise it. If you are on Springs then you have to go outside the box to get less camber.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

This is a toe problem, not camber.

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately I have springs on it - Tein S.

Sunny, I read on a different thread that your setup was similar to mine with a negative camber close to -4. On a typical set of tires, how many miles do you get with it before needing to buy a new set? Does the front and rear wear out at the same rate or does one wear out faster than the other?

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

So try and get the camber as close to 0 as possible. As far as the toe goes though, even with the bigger size and such they should be able to get it at 0 without any additional changes in my setup?

Sunny G

iTrader: (1)

It all depends on the tire you have. If you have all season with high treadwear then they will last longer. If you have summer tires with lower treadwear then they will not last as long. In my experience and you can see it in the pics I posted aswell. I used the same brand tires which is Toyo. On my last set of wheels I had Toyo proxes 4+(all season) which has a treadwear of 560 I got 14k miles from them before they had camber wear like the pics I posted. Now compared to that now I'm running new wheel setup except in using Toyo T1S (summer performance) tires with a treadwear rating of 240 less than half of before. I reached that level of camber wear in 5000 miles. Now it all depends on what type of tire you go with and how long it lasts, but also what your priority is long lasting or grip/performance.

Sunny G

iTrader: (1)

Also with fitment you have to remember is that if you are running a lower offset with wide tires and you go back to 0 camber that wheel will stick outside the fender. Also the other thing you can do is get a stretch tire setup which will free up space to adjust the camber which requires a camber kit.

slartibartfast

iTrader: (7)

Sunny, what is your toe setting? With little to no toe, camber does NOT wear a tire like that unless you spend a lot of time slipping the tires (like you would at a road course).

sLADe781

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I got the allseason Continental DWS with a treadwear of 540. Hopefully it'll be decent. As far as priority goes, tread life is definitely priority. Then comfort then performance.

Yeah, for sure I won't be able to get the camber to 0 because if it even gets remotely close, it'll rub the fender like crazy. But maybe they can reduce the negative camber a bit. I'll have to speak with the shop about it when I take the car in.

So going back to my other question, even with an aggressive camber setup is it still possible to get 0 toe?