Rochester

iTrader: (8)

There's a new member, efp11, who recently dropped his RWD G37S on Swifts, with 19" aftermarket rims. He posted pics here:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-sed...ml#post3922312

...and from the looks of those pictures, his drop is spot-on, right out of the gate.

Good for him, right... but how does that happen? I'm starting to think that every car is different, even though there are typical scenarios with similar setups. And one of those typical scenarios is to perceive a droopy bum when dropped on most aftermarket springs, like Swift, Eibach and Tanabe.

So what should someone do who's dropping their Sedan on aftermarket springs?

Step 1: install the springs
Step 2: wait a few weeks and assess the look
Potential Step 3: Win!
Potential Step 3: install 3/8" spacers

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Here I am a month later, and over the last week or so I've been looking at the rear height, thinking to myself, "Something's not right." More and more, it's looking like the rear is getting droopy again.

So this afternoon I pulled the rear driver's side wheel, and discovered this:



What you're seeing is the bushings literally stretched out of shape, around the entire diameter of the upper spring. The polyurethane which is overflapping the spring is actually the ledge, meaning the spring is now sitting on the thin inner layer of poly which was originally fitted into the inside. If that at all.

Apparently 3/8" of hard poly isn't thick enough material to stand the test of time. Or even one month.



To say I'm frustrated and disappointed is to understate my reaction to this situation.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

So now I'm at a crossroads. The only way the rear is going to be at a height I'm happy with is to install coil-overs. Going coil-overs *now* isn't in my schedule. It's a big expense, and the next *big* expense was supposed to be rear gears in Spring 2016.

Then there's the decision on which CO's to use... which is a research project I've not even started. Quite honestly, I'd be happy enough to have CO's in the rear, and leave the Swift Springs in the front. But IDK what that means for the handling on the car.

Ah... this explains why my alignment last week seemed so whacked.

Aw man. I'm pretty unhappy right now.

blnewt

iTrader: (13)

Wow John, sorry to see you have continued issues w/ that rear setup. Very disappointing seeing that bushing all disfigured, was that the side where your camber was way off?

Might look into the Tein Basis, IMO they're better than the 32 way adjustable Taiwan types (like BC, Megan, D2 and the ilk). They use the OEM front top mounts that eliminate one of the noise issues common w/ cheaper coilovers. And being a Japanese company their quality is better. These are a mild drop coilover that's best in the 1.4 to 2" range so that would be right up your alley.
They don't have damper adjustment but IMO that's a bit overrated, at least w/ coilovers at the lower price points. That "useable" damper adjustment range is so narrow that only a few clicks out of the 32 are suitable for daily driving. With my Megan coilovers I've tried several damper settings and only found the 12-14 click window suitable, and I'm fairly certain that would be where the Teins are set from the factory.
At any rate, here's some info on them and the range for optimum performance and damper life is the shaded green areas. FWIW it says coupe but they also fit the Sedans
TEIN USA | COILOVER KIT & SPRING KIT SEARCH ?INFINITI?G37 COUPE?STREET BASIS
And the info on the product
TEIN.com: STREET BASIS - PRODUCTS
And vendor
TEIN Street Basis Coilover Kit; OEM Front Upper Mount; OEM Rear Upper Mount; Not EDFC Compatable INFINITI G35

Coy1231

Wow....a shame it only lasted ~1 month. I think you have the right idea, but may just need a different material. Have you considered or looked into PTFE [Teflon] material ( Teflon ® PTFE Machined Components & Molded Parts ). The industry in which I work uses this material quite often in lieu of polyurethane due to it having a higher compression rating (won't distort) and still be pliable. The PTFE material comes in stock shapes and can be custom cut/machined to whatever you may need. I would at least try contacting them and provide the dimension you've shown within this attachment Energy Suspension Parts - Search

Edit: May be a cheaper alternative to CO's if you really didn't want to go that route....just a thought

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

This whole bushing idea was originally supposed to be the "cheap" fix. But it turned into a bit of a project because of the second approach taken with the 3/8" bushings. So far, I'm into this the cost of two 5/8" bushings, the cost of two 3/8" bushings, the cost of two Upper Seats, and two hours of labor at my mechanic; since I did this twice now.

There is one more idea that's rattling around my head, approachable only in the context of stubbornly not giving up on the "simple" solution. That is, put the bushing on the underside of the top-seat. That would mean cutting or grinding down the inner lip that would normally go on the inside of the upper spring coils, which is no big deal. Total cost is another $20 for two new bushings, some customization again, and 1 hour labor.... so another $100 give or take.

IDK. I'm feeling kind of hollowed out at the moment. I'm cancelling Tuesday morning's install for a pair of rear SPC Camber Arms that I just purchased. Perhaps I need to step back a bit. Research CO's some more. Get my head right.

Again... IDK.

Here's a picture from G35Driver, of the upper-seat bucket with a thin coil-spring isololator inserted against it. I'm wondering if I customize the 3/8" ES bushing (to trim off the inside lip) that it could sit between the OEM rubber Top-Seat and the frame bucket.

Coy1231

Sometime "simplicity" is not so "simple".........Best of luck either way!!

m3clubracer

As hard as it is the proper way to measure drop is from the center of the wheel to the top of the fender. Any other way and you are wasting time especially if you are carrying the measurement to 3 decimal places. This removes things like tire pressure and tire depth mainly. The necessity of a flat and level ground is very important. It would be nice if there was a thread or chart of actual drop right after and 4 weeks from install.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

I'm not going to argue the point too hard, m3clubracer. But the point is to establish consistency within measurements to my car... not necessarily my car to yours. So as long as my tire pressure is spot-on, and the surface flat and level, I've got consistency.

Aside from that, it's way-y-y easier to put a yardstick up against the wheel for measurement than it is to strive for center-hub... unless I were to mark the center cap, which isn't a bad idea now that I write that.

And the 3 decimal places is just Excel translating typical measurements that are mostly to 1/8", but occasionally at 1/16" increments when I couldn't decide. You're reading too much into that. I'm a little OCD, but not *that* much, LOL.

Wasting my time? No man, it's a hobby. Besides, I bailed rather quickly on the bushing approach, and bought a set of Tein Basis Coilovers, with a SPC Rear Camber & Toe kit. Right now all four corners are at a consistent 26 3/4" floor to fender, and my rear wheels are at -2.2* and -2.3* camber. Here, I took this picture yesterday:

VIVID

iTrader: (12)

That reminds me. I gotta wrap my belt line. That looks great.

Sean

m3clubracer

I wish mine looked less like a jeep and more like that. I still want a matrix, maybe have to start a thread.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

Well, if you do, then I'll go through the effort of measurements from center-hub to fender. I'm kind of curious about that approach. With the flat center cap on these Vossens, all I'd have to do is tape an equally sized circle of paper on it, with a dot dead center, to measure against.

m3clubracer

Yeah it's way harder with deep dish wheels but the only accurate way to determine actual drop. I don't think I will get much info from anyone on here. I've tried.

Rochester

iTrader: (8)

That's right. Good point.



Whatever, man. Like I said, the valuable measurement is a consistent approach to your car, not necessarily final measurement comparison to other cars. When you start doing that, it becomes more like guidelines.

2GoRNot2G

iTrader: (5)

Welcome to the coil-over club! Car looks great!


Sorry all that hard work with testing different rear spacers was for naught though... but at least others can learn from your experience.