rear brakes
12-10-2013, 11:13 AM
#1
rear brakes
2011 with 16k miles and rears are real low. Infacted shreaching when I slow down.
just rotated tires and noticed.
This normal?
Rotors look good, thinking just get new pads.
Does dealer take care of it or I do?
If so, ill do it myself. Been a while
just rotated tires and noticed.
This normal?
Rotors look good, thinking just get new pads.
Does dealer take care of it or I do?
If so, ill do it myself. Been a while
12-10-2013, 11:20 AM
#2
Infacted shreaching ?
I've noticed more squealing than usual with my brakes it's a 2012 with 20K miles. I think the sound is just coming from the rears, but I went ahead and bought a full set of Stoptech street performance pads. They're ~145 shipped from amazon.
I read up the DIY, and it should be a quick swap. <1 hour for all four, just remove the clips and hitch pins; no need to take the brakes off the car.
I've noticed more squealing than usual with my brakes it's a 2012 with 20K miles. I think the sound is just coming from the rears, but I went ahead and bought a full set of Stoptech street performance pads. They're ~145 shipped from amazon.
I read up the DIY, and it should be a quick swap. <1 hour for all four, just remove the clips and hitch pins; no need to take the brakes off the car.
12-10-2013, 11:24 AM
#3
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Dealer will allow you bringing your own pads, if you want, required by law. Other garage can refuse you bring your own parts.
For rotor, usually they will not warp. They are 20mm thick when new, and needs to be replaced when under 16mm.
If always using oem, usually you need new rotors on the second pad replacement, and new calipers on the second rotor replacement. These are very rough estimation.
Since it's 16k, consider do brake fluid flush together, which may reduce cost, and get better performance.
12-10-2013, 11:27 AM
#4
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Brakes are easy.
There is a diy and its pretty easy to figure out. You should be able to do your rears in about hour and a half without a lift and having to figure it out as you go. I can do it in about 30 minutes now since ive done it twice. I change my rotors every other brake change. Good time to upgrade.
12-10-2013, 12:44 PM
#5
changing brake pads is almost the easiest DIY maintenance item one can think of on a car, just behind changing the air filter and removing a tire.
if it's just your pads that are worn, buy the parts online. i did my rears (and rotors) a while back and the OEM pads are ~$58. Akebono ProACT are ~$47. both great pads that will serve you just fine.
count on ~1hr of time total, including removing and re-installing the wheels. so all-in it's a $50-$60 job, assuming pads only.
if it's just your pads that are worn, buy the parts online. i did my rears (and rotors) a while back and the OEM pads are ~$58. Akebono ProACT are ~$47. both great pads that will serve you just fine.
count on ~1hr of time total, including removing and re-installing the wheels. so all-in it's a $50-$60 job, assuming pads only.
12-10-2013, 01:39 PM
#6
It's very normal that rear brake wear faster on an X. You need to pay dealer for this regular maintain, it's not covered by warranty, with 12k, you may argue to be charged prorated, but 16k could be very very normal.
Dealer will allow you bringing your own pads, if you want, required by law. Other garage can refuse you bring your own parts.
For rotor, usually they will not warp. They are 20mm thick when new, and needs to be replaced when under 16mm.
If always using oem, usually you need new rotors on the second pad replacement, and new calipers on the second rotor replacement. These are very rough estimation.
Since it's 16k, consider do brake fluid flush together, which may reduce cost, and get better performance.
Dealer will allow you bringing your own pads, if you want, required by law. Other garage can refuse you bring your own parts.
For rotor, usually they will not warp. They are 20mm thick when new, and needs to be replaced when under 16mm.
If always using oem, usually you need new rotors on the second pad replacement, and new calipers on the second rotor replacement. These are very rough estimation.
Since it's 16k, consider do brake fluid flush together, which may reduce cost, and get better performance.
Why do you recommend changing to fluid at 16K miles? Also, why do you recommend changing the calipers? Neither of these operations are recommended int he infiniti factory maintenance schedule for typical driving and it seems like wasted $$ unless the car is subjected to extreme driving conditions.
Brian
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12-10-2013, 03:01 PM
#8
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Yi Feng,
Why do you recommend changing to fluid at 16K miles? Also, why do you recommend changing the calipers? Neither of these operations are recommended int he infiniti factory maintenance schedule for typical driving and it seems like wasted $$ unless the car is subjected to extreme driving conditions.
Brian
Why do you recommend changing to fluid at 16K miles? Also, why do you recommend changing the calipers? Neither of these operations are recommended int he infiniti factory maintenance schedule for typical driving and it seems like wasted $$ unless the car is subjected to extreme driving conditions.
Brian
Brake fluid is every 2 years / forget how many miles - I drive less than schedule.
Backing off a step, this depends on the weather / location.
In a rainy city like Seattle, brake fluid needs flush every other year, as indicated by the test stripe. Moisture could potentially blow a brake line at an hard brake. I have experienced hard brake behind a lowered bimmer with non-functional brake lights in almost dark high way. I stopped 1 yard behind him with tire slips and smokes.
For calipers, I stated every 4 pads / 2 rotors, not now. Usually that implies after 80-100k miles. For op, a guide line of 70k as his rear brake life indicate his driving habit. That will be a result of rust, excessive dust, which causes caliper not function accurately and brake start to squirk. Schedule would not say that's mandatory, but it will happen and replace caliper would be recommended.
I would not do any recommendation from here, and it's more of information, and personal experience.
Last edited by Yi Feng; 12-10-2013 at 03:08 PM.
12-10-2013, 03:25 PM
#9
It's very normal that rear brake wear faster on an X. You need to pay dealer for this regular maintain, it's not covered by warranty, with 12k, you may argue to be charged prorated, but 16k could be very very normal.
Dealer will allow you bringing your own pads, if you want, required by law. Other garage can refuse you bring your own parts.
For rotor, usually they will not warp. They are 20mm thick when new, and needs to be replaced when under 16mm.
If always using oem, usually you need new rotors on the second pad replacement, and new calipers on the second rotor replacement. These are very rough estimation.
Since it's 16k, consider do brake fluid flush together, which may reduce cost, and get better performance.
Dealer will allow you bringing your own pads, if you want, required by law. Other garage can refuse you bring your own parts.
For rotor, usually they will not warp. They are 20mm thick when new, and needs to be replaced when under 16mm.
If always using oem, usually you need new rotors on the second pad replacement, and new calipers on the second rotor replacement. These are very rough estimation.
Since it's 16k, consider do brake fluid flush together, which may reduce cost, and get better performance.
...what?
