Disconnecting Battery Current Sensor
 

Hey guys so I’m running a big 3 ground kit using 1/0 OFC wires. After research I’ve read that grounding the battery to the chassis shorts out the battery current sensor. Now I also read that disconnecting the battery current sensor on the negative cable disables this to regain traditional alternator/battery recharge method , will disconnecting this throw any CEL codes? I noticed P1550 code is related to the battery current sensor so I want to make sure that unplugging this to get back a full 14+ Volts constantly won’t cause me any check engine light to come on? thanks !

No you dont need to

You shouldn't need to remove it. If you're replacing the post, then use the same cable with sensor and add it to the new post.

Im not replacing the post, I’m actually just upgrading the wire thickness on all the power/ground wires leaving all the original battery cables there. I’m running a high power audio setup so I’m upgrading

1)battery negative to chassis ground
2)alternator positive to battery positive
3)engine ground to chassis

not removing any factory wiring, just adding 1/0 gauge copper wire. Since our negative battery cable uses the current sensor, I noticed when I upgraded the negative to chassis my car stayed at a current 13.3 Volts instead of the 14V+ Due to the current sensor. I read that unplugging this sensor (little box wrapped around the cable) disables this “smart charge” feature the G37 uses to regain the traditional alternator to battery recharge meaning with the upgraded ground wire my G37 will not use the smart charge feature and allow the car to charge up past 14V+ with the engine on.

Because leaving the negative post that has the current sensor, WITH the upgraded ground as well (that has no current sensor) won’t allow the current sensor to do its job and let the car only charge up to around 13.2-13.3V instead of the targeted 14V that a normal car would reach or in this case, what our G37 would reach if the current sensor isn’t shorted out by adding another ground without the current sensor.

so in simple terms, the original negative post is still on the battery, I just have an extra ground going from the original grounding spot to the negative post meaning the negative post has 2 grounds. To beef up the cars weak grounds. By doing so, it is disabling the smart charge feature the current sensor on our negative battery wire does because now there is a ground wire WITHOUT a sensor on the battery as well, meaning our battery will never see 14V+ because it will always think it’s full.

P.S sorry for the long read, after all the reading on the forums I’ve done, I’m sure this will help tons of people in the future as well :)

I did not think about that, you should check the ID of the sensor and see whats the maximum gauge it accepts and run it.

I wonder if thicker strand wire will help in this situation.

Originally I intended to run new wire through the sensor but the wire I’m running (Rockford Fosgate 1/0 OFC) is way too thick, looks like max gauge you can run is 6 gauge through it. I do not want to mess with the original ground though so I didn’t bother taking it apart either way. I read somewhere on the forum that if you unplug this little box, the smart charge feature is disabled. After some more reading it looks like there is a trouble code related to issues with the battery current sensor if it ever has issues so I’m wondering if unplugging this will cause any issues or cause any CEL. Thank you for your response as well, very much appreciated .

Sorry to bring this back from the dead however I believe I've noticed a bit of a change in the ground aspect of it however would need additional info from those who have relocated their batteries.
This is pretty common in the Z forums however I've not received responses as to what do relocated owners do with their current sensor. Do they disable it and disable the code on Uprev? I take factory owners would have to deal with the code however would it also mean full charge or the inability to hit anything after 13v?

In the engine stand that I have Im currently running the alternator without the IPDM wire which allows me to see 14v at all times along with an upgraded wire through the sensor. My dwell battery output is .01mv less than my car which made me ask if this is the alternator or the ground helping.

@BULL I have no shame, I’ll re-revive this for the sake of sharing info.

I noticed I’ve been getting code P1550 via EcuTek’s DTC function. I have a Braille G30 lithium battery relocated to my trunk with a kill switch. I need to check the ground as that may likely be causing the code in my case. The current sensor is in the OEM location with a wire ran to the battery in the trunk. I’ll get a picture of the current sensor tomorrow. Not visible in the older pic below. AFAIK my installer did not bypass the current sensor…but I’ll confirm tomorrow. installer did bypass the OEM neg. terminal

I monitor my battery voltage via EcuTek and lately have been getting 13.6-13.9v steady, but not above 14. Wondering if this directly relates to code P1550 I keep getting.

My fans also stopped working the other day, but that’s an unrelated electrical gremlin I’m digging into.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...c2d32c855.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.myg...91403dc39.jpeg

Edit- My installer DID bypass the OEM negative terminal which is likely why I keep getting P1550. Only a positive cable is run to the trunk. I'm going to reach out to my tuner and see if he can disable/bypass it for me, or what he recommends. Seb will know.