G37S coupe won’t start. Yellow key light stays on after car is switched to on.
07-08-2018, 07:45 PM
#16
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So I tried the work around clutch switch test and that didn’t work either. It’s the same as if I were to press the clutch in and press the button. Also when I unplug the clutch sensor and just press the start button it just cycles to off. So clutch sensor should be good. Should I checked the fuse panel on the bottom left of the driver side and all fuses that seem like they are related to starting seemed fine. Still really confused by this.
07-08-2018, 09:04 PM
#17
What exactly did you do?
Disconnected the harness from the lower clutch switch, connected a jumper to its pins of the harness and tried starting the car? Did you do this while the pedal was depressed (or at least not actuating the top switch)? I'm not sure what the logic is in the ECU, but you can't have a condition where both the top and bottom switches are actuated, that will confuse the ecu and probably not allow the car to start either.
What response would you expect? I'd wouldn't expect the car to start.
What was the switch continuity test result?
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This is the switch in question - https://www.z1motorsports.com/switch...ch-p-6225.html
According to my notes in a different thread, it's a NO type so when you close it it closes the circuit (makes a noise or read 0 ohms on the dmm).
I suppose you could have other issues or starter issues, but without a proper diagnosis it's all just guesses.
Disconnected the harness from the lower clutch switch, connected a jumper to its pins of the harness and tried starting the car? Did you do this while the pedal was depressed (or at least not actuating the top switch)? I'm not sure what the logic is in the ECU, but you can't have a condition where both the top and bottom switches are actuated, that will confuse the ecu and probably not allow the car to start either.
Also when I unplug the clutch sensor and just press the start button it just cycles to off.
What was the switch continuity test result?
--------------
This is the switch in question - https://www.z1motorsports.com/switch...ch-p-6225.html
According to my notes in a different thread, it's a NO type so when you close it it closes the circuit (makes a noise or read 0 ohms on the dmm).
I suppose you could have other issues or starter issues, but without a proper diagnosis it's all just guesses.
07-08-2018, 11:10 PM
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JSOLO hey so I went out and tinkered with it some more and disconnected my battery and reconnected after about 15 minutes. It fired up and then I drove it around for about 45 minutes. My battery leads look pretty rough, espcially my positive one. Should I try switching those out?
07-08-2018, 11:11 PM
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JSOLO hey so I went out and tinkered with it some more and disconnected my battery and reconnected after about 15 minutes. It fired up and then I drove it around for about 45 minutes. My battery leads look pretty rough, espcially my positive one. Should I try switching those out?
07-09-2018, 12:36 AM
#20
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JSOLO hey so I went out and tinkered with it some more and disconnected my battery and reconnected after about 15 minutes. It fired up and then I drove it around for about 45 minutes. My battery leads look pretty rough, espcially my positive one. Should I try switching those out?
07-09-2018, 03:36 PM
#22
Is this steering lock thing only found on older models? I don't believe I even have a steering lock. Actually n/m, according to this it was eliminated in later models - https://www.myg37.com/forums/tsb-tec...ck-recall.html
That said, the OP's car is going into accessory and on/run mode, just doesn't crank. This is different from what's in the video.
That said, the OP's car is going into accessory and on/run mode, just doesn't crank. This is different from what's in the video.
07-09-2018, 04:22 PM
#23
04-10-2019, 08:50 AM
#28
just because batteries are "new" doesn't mean they are good. take it to Autozone or something and have it checked. and clean the terminals and cable connectors if you say they look "pretty rough".
07-24-2019, 04:32 PM
#29
Check for water next to the battery I'm going through the same thing
Sometimes when it rains water get stuck next to the battery and you fuse box is more than likely submerged in it and you need to bury it out going through the same thing
I’ve been struggling with this for a while now. My 2008 g37s will not start. I brought it to a Nissan dealership and they said that it passed a diagnostic, and that my car was good to pick up. I drove it all the way home without it giving me any issues even stalling it a couple times in traffic and it started right back up. Once I let it sit at my place for a couple hours and wanted to get food later that night I went to go start it up. It will cycle to on but will not start. The yellow/amber key light on my dash just stays illumnated and the car won’t crank when I push in the clutch all the way and try to turn over the engine nothing happens, no click or clicking noises. Things I have done already
-new optima redtop battery
-new positive battery lead fuse assembly
-checked the steering lock on the column it is actuating and unlocking properly( I can hear it when I shut the door after the car is turned all the way off and I can feel it unlock when car is switched to on.)
-unplugged battery and plugged back in
-keyfob has brand new battery and is linked to car. (Car recognizes it for unlocking doors and if I place key outside while car is switched to on it noticed it is missing and says no key.)
[/QUOTE]
-new optima redtop battery
-new positive battery lead fuse assembly
-checked the steering lock on the column it is actuating and unlocking properly( I can hear it when I shut the door after the car is turned all the way off and I can feel it unlock when car is switched to on.)
-unplugged battery and plugged back in
-keyfob has brand new battery and is linked to car. (Car recognizes it for unlocking doors and if I place key outside while car is switched to on it noticed it is missing and says no key.)
07-26-2019, 10:48 AM
#30
Clean the white stuff off terminals with brush and vacuum it up. Put some terminal protectant on battery and terminals. Stock battery is acid cell which needs distilled water pop cap and check levels.