I reached out to 2 incredible members here but thought to post for more advice since I was trying to get installed this week. I decided I’m not trying to do this install on my 12 sedan. Music taste is that I like full music and the Bose system is lacking any type of base. It kinda bugs me that my last car Hyundai had a stock 8” sub and sounded so much fuller. I’m not into license plates rattling so one 10” sub is what I would like.

Install will be JL 10” sub, JL amp, an loc and a bass ****

sub:
Leaning on JL cs110g-tw3-d4 sealed box shallow mount sub 400 rms
the other is the bigger brother cs110g-w6v3 sealed box 600 rms
both are 10” and I know the w6 is better, but I’m thinking of trying the tw3 first.


amp
Installer said stick with the JL rd500 rms amp no matter which sub to go with. Another shop said go to 700-750 amp if I do, so not sure on this. (I like the self tuning leds on the rd series that don’t require additional hardware to dial it in before clipping occurs.) Doesn’t seem like the other series have this.

loc:
Getting l2ci since stops sub from decreasing when turning louder and since I’m keeping stock head unit.

Wiring kit:
I am not sure on gauge size, brand, or even what kit to use.

Wiring:
Since Im not attempting this, do I really want to give the installer info on what wires to tap into? Any instructions I should give them to ensure better result?

Bass ****:
just getting the JL version and putting under steering wheel very low. I am okay with leaning forward to adjust.

Any and all advise on sub, if amp for either selection is good, and wiring advice on gauge,is greatly appreciated.

Larger more cable amps are less likely to destroy subs than lower, underpowered amps that clip early. The larger amp will give you room to grow but realistically, the sound difference between 500 and 700 watts will be determined more by the efficiency of the sub than the output of the amp. In general, you have to double the power to raise the output sound 3dB's

I believe the JL web site recommends AWG4 for the power wire. This is probably sufficient for a single sub amp. Im not so much a brand or kit guy as I am wire quality and intended usage. Welding cable has always been my go-to for high amperage power delivery. The jackets are usually neoprene which is tough and rugged, the strand count is high and the copper is high quality. Just about any welder is going to require more current than almost any reasonable car amp so rest assured this cable will work. Its half the price of brand X and I hate advertising for those guys anyway! Having said that, if you go to an installer, he will try to sell you on the triple brand X Oxygen free cable which is mostly sales hype.

Probably not, any reputable installer will know exactly where to tap into the stock system to drive your sub. However, it is entirely your decision on what products he is to use unless you trust his judgement and can afford his price. Most installers I've had the privilege of working with were very professional and extremely collaborative. As long as you don't come off like a know it all punk, they'll steer you right!

Thank you for all the advice. I have my install set up for tomorrow.

Audio control l2ci LOC
JL RD500 Amp
JL TW3 10” Sub

For the bass **** is there any difference to having bass **** connected to LOC or a bass **** directly to the Amp?